Topic: Carb Fitting Help - Customizing

[raymond10078]

I'm planning on putting CV carbs on my Hondamatic.

When putting them on the CB750, there is no vacuum port for synching.  Since I don't want to synch using an air flow gage, I'm looking for a different plan.

The two pics aren't my carbs - but are essentially the same.  The pic with the single arrow is actually the location where I want to put in a fitting of some kind.

When examining the carbs, I see an engine-side port that is drilled vertically - with another passage (drilling) that is capped off (that comes in from the side).  I could unplug that drilling, and then . . . .

I'm wondering if anybody knows of any fittings, or tubing that can be tapped/pressed in that may work.

The depth of the engagement would only be about 1/8" (maybe slightly more - but not much). 

I was hoping for something that stays in place permanently - and would use a rubber cap.

[754]

 Use a push in spigot or look for 1/16 inch pipe tap & hose barbs..

[lucky]

The CV carbs do not need syncing. They sync themselves.
The slide is constantly reacting to the atmospheric pressure in relation ship to the vacuum created by the engine.

If you had a single cylinder engine you would  see that it idles
by adjusting the idle screw.

The mechanical operated carbs operated by pulling the slide with a cable or by have a lifter arm to lift the slide does need to have adjustments to get the slides of the other carbs to be the same.

[MRieck]

The CV carbs do not need syncing. They sync themselves.
The slide is constantly reacting to the atmospheric pressure in relation ship to the vacuum created by the engine.

If you had a single cylinder engine you would  see that it idles
by adjusting the idle screw.

The mechanical operated carbs operated by pulling the slide with a cable or by have a lifter arm to lift the slide does need to have adjustments to get the slides of the other carbs to be the same.

Incorrect my friend

[MRieck]

I started placing brass hose "menders" in CB insulators almost 20 years to give me the ability to vacuum synch CR's. I use Suzuki synch caps. I  have extra dual barb pieces and the caps. I recommend cutting the brass pieces down a bit to clean up the look.

[johno]

Thats the way it is Kandrtek ,      Life is short , get the bits off Mike and enjoy the experience, ciao Johno

[turboguzzi]

The CV carbs do not need syncing. They sync themselves.
The slide is constantly reacting to the atmospheric pressure in relation ship to the vacuum created by the engine.

If you had a single cylinder engine you would  see that it idles
by adjusting the idle screw.

The mechanical operated carbs operated by pulling the slide with a cable or by have a lifter arm to lift the slide does need to have adjustments to get the slides of the other carbs to be the same.

Incorrect my friend

+1, CV's like synching too...

like mike said, would thread into the rubbers or you could even just make small hole in them and force a tube into it

[BLUE71TURBO]

 Just epoxy some tubes in the rubber intake boots.  A friend of mine did it years ago and has had no problems ever.   

[lucky]

I started placing brass hose "menders" in CB insulators almost 20 years to give me the ability to vacuum synch CR's. I use Suzuki synch caps. I  have extra dual barb pieces and the caps. I recommend cutting the brass pieces down a bit to clean up the look.

I stand corrected MRieck, but how does it work?

What does it adjust since the vacuum slide is constantly going up and down?
I have one bike I put a glass window on the air box to film and record the slide movements and found out it is constantly going up and down. It almost does not stay still.
It was a VF 1000R V4 airbox and stock carbs.

[MRieck]

You use the synch screws between 1&2 and 3&4 to balance those carbs. Balance those  pairs to each other using the center synch screw. 1&2, 3&4 stews control how far open the vacuum plates are open (which are controlled by the throttle and idle  screw). V4 are different  b7ut the same concept.