Topic: Another question, regarding the dreaded cam-chain adjustment from hades...

[CTCStrela]

I've searched, and I really couldn't find a definitive answer for this one...


I've seen people mention, when referring to the tensioner, putting a screwdriver into the housing,  or as in a recent post "I just put a small shaft into the hole of the tensioner and then I can feel the tensioner shaft move if there is any slack."  My question is...uh, on a 550 motor, there isn't any housing, or hole in the tensioner, that I know of...  The adjustment is a small flathead bolt on the rear of the cylinder head,  with a lock-screw attached.    Now I understand there is an issue with tensioners not tensioning when you do the,  "loosen the lock-nut, then retighten the locknut, while holding the bolt with a screwdriver", and I'm a little confused.
Are 550 motor's tensioner adjustments different than 750's?  If so, how do you do it?  If not, then where is the "tensioner housing", or even the "hole" to "push in" on?!

Exactly what is the proper "evolved" procedure (meaning one that actually works on an old 550 honda four motor, not a showroom new one),  when you want to adjust the camchain tension?
Thanks in advance!

[Warlock]

Greets,
The camchain tensioners on the 500/550's are designed to be self tensioning. What this means is that the slotted screw is actually the visible part of an internal half moon gear which mates with a spring loaded rack gear inside the tensioner assembly (See attached photo). Ideally, when the lock nut is loosened, the spring will pull the tensioner, pushing the slipper against the chain, and rotating the adjusting screw automatically, as needed, in the process. The adjusting screw is then held stationary while the lock nut is tightened. All this is done with the engine set at #1 cylinder at 15 degress ATDC on compression(the position at which the chain slack is designed to be on the tensioner side). Over time, the rack and half moon gears may become gummed up and not operate freely. Thus, the spring may not be able to move the tensioner attached to the rack gear. It has been suggested that a small amount of torque be applied to the adjusting screw while tightening the lock nut. This is to overcome any resistance which has manifested itself in the adjusting mechanism. Loosening the lock nut and exercising the adjusting screw has also been an option. Be careful not to apply too much force to the adjuster screw, as the slotted ends  have been known to break under excessive force...and THAT would be a problem...

[SteveD CB500F]

Warlock - do you have any diagrams or pictures of this "half moon" stuff as I'd like to put your explanation in the FAQs.

Steve

[CTCStrela]

Thanks so much!!!!

Adjusted and so much more quiet!!!!  Not silent, but a hell of a lot better!

[Dennis]

And to answer your other question, those descriptions you were asking about were for a "750" tensioner, which as you have no doubt figured out already, are totally different!

[CTCStrela]

Yup, that and the clutch adjustment (I think) were a bit confusing....as they are different (at least I believe they are!)