Author Topic: timing question  (Read 1738 times)

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Offline xedge4lifex

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timing question
« on: August 22, 2010, 09:05:39 PM »
i just got my top end back together, the cam wasnt perfect flush as ive read its supposed to be via cam notch C to engine head -  (C-) and ended up more along the lines of the cam being turned clockwise a small amount, however the notch in the cam still lined up with the top of the head, just not perfect. maybe im expecting perfection i just dont know how they did it from the factory. anyways, ive gotten the bike running, i went to do the timing and 1-4 cylinders were spot on the F. however the 2-3 cylinders dont even come close. it either wont run or has issues running anytime i adjust the smaller plate that the 2-3 points sit on, i tried adjusting the point gap from spec to out of spec to see if that helped, and nothing. what i dont get is how can my 1-4 be 99% correct, and the 2-3 cylinders not even be in the spectrum of being adjusted.

thanks
Aaron
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: timing question
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2010, 10:19:37 PM »
By chance,...are you using Daiichi brand points? They seldom work right...
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

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Offline xedge4lifex

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Re: timing question
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2010, 10:40:15 PM »
By chance,...are you using Daiichi brand points? They seldom work right...

stock points, had the bike running fantastic last year er about 50 miles ago/head teardown
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: timing question
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2010, 06:59:01 PM »
Well, then see if maybe this scenario sounds familiar:

When timing the cam on the engine, the crank needs to be turned in a clockwise direction (as viewed from the big nut on the spark advancer), and NOT backed up. Backing up in the CCW direction causes 2 things: a.) it bends the long, thin stud that holds the spark advancer in place, changing the spark gap and timing requirements in the process and b.) tends to make the dowel receiving hole in the crankshaft oval, which then lets the sprak advancer tilt on this newly-bent shaft. This causes the timing of 1-4 to advance quite a bit, while making the timing on 2-3 "jitter" or require less gap than the 1-4 side, to make it meet the marks.

If you suspect this, remove the advancer and put a dial indicator on the shaft near the threads, check for out-of-true. Anything more than 0.003" is a problem, and can be corrected with light taps of a small hammer. The dowel hole issue is harder to fix...

Another possibility:

The timing plate itself may be a little too small: we've seen this quite a bit lately on recent ignition parts. When setting this backing plate, try to lift it upward toward the top screw on the plate, and try to keep it "up there" while setting the 1-4 gap and timing. You may then find that the 2-3 gap comes in a little closer to spec.

Some of these backing plates (since about 2001) have been as much as 0.010" too small (of the ones I've measured) in diameter, making a lot of 'slop' and out-of-round timing errors.
See SOHC4shop@gmail.com for info about the gadgets I make for these bikes.

The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: https://www.lulu.com/search?adult_audience_rating=00&page=1&pageSize=10&q=my+cb750+book

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline xedge4lifex

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Re: timing question
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2010, 10:24:51 PM »
Well, then see if maybe this scenario sounds familiar:

When timing the cam on the engine, the crank needs to be turned in a clockwise direction (as viewed from the big nut on the spark advancer), and NOT backed up. Backing up in the CCW direction causes 2 things: a.) it bends the long, thin stud that holds the spark advancer in place, changing the spark gap and timing requirements in the process and b.) tends to make the dowel receiving hole in the crankshaft oval, which then lets the sprak advancer tilt on this newly-bent shaft. This causes the timing of 1-4 to advance quite a bit, while making the timing on 2-3 "jitter" or require less gap than the 1-4 side, to make it meet the marks.

If you suspect this, remove the advancer and put a dial indicator on the shaft near the threads, check for out-of-true. Anything more than 0.003" is a problem, and can be corrected with light taps of a small hammer. The dowel hole issue is harder to fix...

Another possibility:

The timing plate itself may be a little too small: we've seen this quite a bit lately on recent ignition parts. When setting this backing plate, try to lift it upward toward the top screw on the plate, and try to keep it "up there" while setting the 1-4 gap and timing. You may then find that the 2-3 gap comes in a little closer to spec.

Some of these backing plates (since about 2001) have been as much as 0.010" too small (of the ones I've measured) in diameter, making a lot of 'slop' and out-of-round timing errors.


the first part thankfully sound nothing like how i assembled the engine :-) so i may be in the clear.

however the last part may be the issue, ill definitely try that little trick and post on whether or not that works.
again i really appreciate it! everyone on here is so rad

Wake up, look up, there's a warmth up there
a reminder of peace, a reason to care.

Offline xedge4lifex

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Re: timing question
« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2010, 09:21:04 PM »
*NOTE*

timing may seem off by an inadjustable amount when one of the 2 plugs being adjusted is not firing, check plug caps.


some new pods and im ready to roll
Wake up, look up, there's a warmth up there
a reminder of peace, a reason to care.