« previous next »
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: seized float bowl, and float bowl drain, screws  (Read 1776 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline cb750fbomb

  • is by no means a
  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 647
  • "No hope? See, that's what gives me guts!"
seized float bowl, and float bowl drain, screws
« on: August 27, 2010, 01:03:04 PM »
HI Guys  :) I was wondering if anyone might have any idea/ideas on how to remove seized float bowl screws and seized float bowl drain screws. I'm having the problem on my '97 Bandit 1200s, my 750F's sibling. One of the float bowls is sticking a lot and when I was able to get the gas out of the carbs the gas was a reddish color, so I'm thinking I need to take the bowls off and check it out. I was only riding it for a week when it started giving me problems and those aren't related to carbs. She's now a work in progress, but she ran like a rocket until she got rained on. Thanks ahead of time for any help.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2010, 01:10:44 PM by cb750fbomb »
Logged
'77 CB750F2
“The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.”

Offline rchrdms

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 114
  • Honda CL350 Twin '72
    • Richard F Meese
Re: seized float bowl, and float bowl drain, screws
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2010, 07:39:31 AM »
If they're pan head screws try vise-grip pliers. You might want to soak them with a good penetrating oil like PB blaster or Castle Thrust first.

The worst case would be drilling the screw heads off. You don't want to damage anything though, so be carefull.
Logged

Offline rchrdms

  • Enthusiast
  • **
  • Posts: 114
  • Honda CL350 Twin '72
    • Richard F Meese
Re: seized float bowl, and float bowl drain, screws
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2010, 07:41:25 AM »
I forgot the impact driver. Try that one first after a good dowsing with oil. Be sure to just lightly tap the end of the driver
with a mallet. Don't wail on it!
Logged

Offline Bodi

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 5,697
Re: seized float bowl, and float bowl drain, screws
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2010, 08:53:05 AM »
I would drill them out and avoid using an impact driver. Typical carb bodies are made from fairly brittle thin metal and breaking the body would be very bad.
Driiling the heads off carefully with a bit just larger than the thread diameter leaves a stub of screw that you can grab with visegrips. After a soak with penetrating oil they should come out fine.
First, if the screw heads are not ruined, heat them up with a small torch... not really hot as the alloy melts at a torchable temperature. Then dribble some penetrating oil or even brake fluid around the heads (and on the thread ends if the mounting holes go through) and let things cool down. With a properly fitting screwdriver give them your best try. Even with ruined screw heads this penetrating oil action helps before trying visegrips on the screw heads if they're not recessed flatheads.
Logged

Offline MoMo

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 8,275
  • Ride like you're invisible
Re: seized float bowl, and float bowl drain, screws
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2010, 08:53:49 PM »
I use a heat gun to expand the aluminum , then use the impact. In lieu of an impact you can hold a screwdriver and tap the end of it with a brass mallet. That shocks the screw and breaks loose the corrosion.  Of course, gas is out before heat gun is used. Rarely to I have to resort to drilling, usually only when a PO has buggered the screw head. 

Your phrase the gas was red bothers me, if the tank was relined whatever was used is breaking down and contaminating the gas.  I'm not sure what product causes that but I have seen it several times in the past year.

Best of luck with your project.
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
« previous next »