Author Topic: FREE BOOTER's CB750K5. More crap to work on...almost there (yeah right) (Read 94245 times)

Spiider · « **Reply #150 on:** May 22, 2011, 05:21:16 AM »

I think the VM's will give you the most flexibility in terms of getting cheap used, in a size thats useful to us and just tune-ability. They seem to be the most popular carb out there.

http://www.mikunioz.com/vm_round_slide.htm

The GSXR carbs appear to be pretty big unless you are going to run them in pairs aka CycleX style.

jaguar · « **Reply #151 on:** May 22, 2011, 08:01:55 AM »

GS are CV carbs no?
and thought that they were 34mm

MCRider · « **Reply #152 on:** May 22, 2011, 12:34:02 PM »

I had VM29s on my CB750K2 888cc for many years. Hope to use them again on current project. Very good performance for my standards.

However, they are very popular with the Z1 crowd and fetch a good price used. No longer available new IIRC. At least in the format necessary for our bikes, gang of four, etc. The rubber manifolds are available from DynoMan, for $150+/-.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MIKUNI-VM-29MM-SMOOTHBORE-CB-KZ-ZRX-GS-GSXR-GP-DRAG-Z1-/270749618891?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f09ef52cb

Free Booter · « **Reply #153 on:** May 23, 2011, 07:24:45 PM »

Any idea if these will fit stock frame?
http://www.cyclexchange.net/Carb%20System%20Comp%20Page.htm

Or if it is worth it or if it is "too much" for a stock engine to handle???

Stev-o · « **Reply #154 on:** May 23, 2011, 07:29:37 PM »

I personally do not think it would be worth the trouble or price.

Free Booter · « **Reply #155 on:** May 23, 2011, 09:30:07 PM »

Quote from: Stev-o on May 23, 2011, 07:29:37 PM

I personally do not think it would be worth the trouble or price.

Ok, but why? WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? ugh...caps

Free Booter · « **Reply #156 on:** May 23, 2011, 09:30:51 PM »

got my handlebar clamp and headlight brackets in today!

Zaipai · « **Reply #157 on:** May 24, 2011, 05:25:04 AM »

Shoot an email to the folks over at CycleX they can tell you if they fit or not. I see one advantage, less carbs to muck with and easy access to the adjustments. I have also heard that they help with performance especially if you beef up the motor. Oh and then there is the cool look factor!

.: Scott :.

Stev-o · « **Reply #158 on:** May 24, 2011, 07:14:56 PM »

Quote from: Free Booter on May 23, 2011, 09:30:07 PM

Quote from: Stev-o on May 23, 2011, 07:29:37 PM
I personally do not think it would be worth the trouble or price.

Ok, but why? WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? ugh...caps

These old Hondas can be a pain to tune w/o the air box. Those look great but I bet are not cheap!
What's wrong with your stock carbs? Unless you're building a drag bike, they should be fine once properly cleaned and sync'd.

Free Booter · « **Reply #159 on:** May 24, 2011, 09:52:14 PM »

Good point. Like everyone else..I dip into the crazy bucket every once in a while and go exotic with my ideas, but I'll stick to my original plan of simple, clean and efficient running machine. Keeping the engine stock. It'll still do over the speed limit for pet's sake! Not building a freakin race bike.

Free Booter · « **Reply #160 on:** May 26, 2011, 03:47:13 PM »

Got the mini gauges a couple of days ago and to my pleasant surprise...they are back-lit!

Only thing is... the Speedo w/ indicator lights is a nice bright LED unit, ut the Tach uses a filament and theyjust look so different at night. Speedo on the left is right white when lit up and the tach is a dim yellow...so I bought some 12v LEDs to swap them out, but I'm AFRAID TO DISASSEMBLE it. Anyone ever take one these apart?

Let me \now if here is a good way to do it. seems like the bezel is on permanently. Is "folded" around the back side...doesn't appear to unscrew.

Free Booter · « **Reply #161 on:** May 26, 2011, 04:54:01 PM »

Well, I figured it out and in fact..it took me all of 10 minutes to complete. The tutorial below probably took me longer. Enjoy!

First thing I had to figure out was how the light was inserted in the gauge. Turns out its just a small rubber plug w/ a recess in it for the bulb that holds the two contacts for the wiring together. No glue or solder at all!

So just pulled it out.

Next I just shoved the wiring through the plug to get the filament bulb loose.

Which was tiny compared to the new one.

...and the new LED w/ sleeve was too big for the hole.

That wasn't a problem as the new LED just slid out of the plastic sleeve.

You will also note the the new LED has a concave end...nice.

So I wanted to use plastic or rubber, but I had some cork laying around from a another project so I just cut that into a small rectangular shape.

I then carefully wedged the wiring through the cork and bent the ends around the same way the filament bulb had them...I actually got it first try, but in the making of this tutorial I actually broke off the wire of my second bulb..so e careful. My bulbs were 12v and ABOUT $9.00 FOR THE PAIR SO...

Once that was done I wedged it back into the rubber sleeve and all done!

It fit like a glove. I will be posting picks of the lights later. Too bright outside now.

Anti-Johnny · « **Reply #162 on:** May 26, 2011, 06:06:29 PM »

nice man. I wish everything was so simple and easy. post this over on the how to sections!

jkidd01 · « **Reply #163 on:** May 26, 2011, 06:40:28 PM »

This is a great build. Looks great so far. Subscribed.

Free Booter · « **Reply #164 on:** May 26, 2011, 06:56:23 PM »

Here's the set up. I ended up lowering the gauges about another inch they were perched too high.

These are before I lowered them.

Spread eagle

Size comparison OLD vs. NEW

Anti-Johnny · « **Reply #165 on:** May 26, 2011, 07:53:16 PM »

yes I like them. Maybe a tiny fairing would be cool too. Just enough to shield them. Purely cosmetic though. I think that would fit your style too.

Free Booter · « **Reply #166 on:** May 26, 2011, 08:32:14 PM »

As promised...the new LED back lit tach to match the LED back lit Speedo.

Worked out pretty good for a 10 min mod.

Zaipai · « **Reply #167 on:** May 27, 2011, 06:14:26 PM »

Dang that turned out nice. Great tutorial. I bookmarked it in-case I want to do that at some point.

.: Scott :.

Free Booter · « **Reply #168 on:** May 29, 2011, 05:37:50 PM »

Well, I decided to go ahead and use my old headlight. so I sanded it, primed it and painted it black. Dual headlights still seem cool, but $140.oo cool is not in my budget at the moment. so I powered up the old light and low beam wasn't working. It happens to be the exact same light my neighbor's jeep uses and we connected it to his Jeep and confirmed it was the low beam that was dead. Just so happens he recently bought a new set for his jeep and I ended up with a near new left over light for free! WOOHOO! my favorite word!

Free Booter · « **Reply #169 on:** May 30, 2011, 01:52:39 PM »

Well here's some pics w/ the headlight and brackets, turn signals etc.

D.WHO · « **Reply #170 on:** May 30, 2011, 03:55:20 PM »

I like it, but I'm always partial to a big round headlight, I think the smaller ones look silly.

Spiider · « **Reply #171 on:** May 30, 2011, 05:57:10 PM »

Maybe just a little lower?

(I'm a fan of the headlight, tank and seat being in a single line.)

Stev-o · « **Reply #172 on:** May 30, 2011, 07:08:44 PM »

I agree, looks good, but can you lower it?

Free Booter · « **Reply #173 on:** May 31, 2011, 06:51:02 AM »

Ok. Will lower it tonight n see how it looks.

Free Booter · « **Reply #174 on:** May 31, 2011, 08:34:28 PM »

Tried lowering the light and it just looked awkward so I'm keeping it up high...

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Author Topic: FREE BOOTER's CB750K5. More crap to work on...almost there (yeah right) (Read 94245 times)