Topic: Need another wheel bearing set?

[shizzomynizzo]

Okay, So I have had all new wheel bearings. I had my wheels powdered by a guy who redid my dad's harley wheels.

Wheels look great! anyway,  I shipped new spokes and the bearing right to him from partsnmore so he could get the wheels done quicker. The guy helped me out by installing my new wheel bearings. He said he had to pound the hell out of them to get them in there.   I can't say I wouldn't have done the same without this site, but I have this forum to figure out how to do it the proper way before starting to hammer away at things like that.

Should I eat the 50 bucks and buy new bearings? or try them how they are?

They spin I guess, but I would assume they would be easier to turn.

Thanks for the advice

[mystic_1]

Don't expect the bearings to spin like crazy, when properly greased there's some resistance when spinning with your fingers but they will roll just fine under load.

Any signs of damage?  Whether or not you need new bearings depends on where he hammered, with what, and how he defines "pound the hell".

This is for your 550?  Front wheel or rear?

mystic_1

[Terry in Australia]

Did the powder coating guy mask off the bearing recesses before he did your wheels mate? I normally stick the bearings in the freezer overnight before I install them and they just slip in with a light tap with a plastic mallet. Cheers, Terry.

[mystic_1]

Yup yup, freezer to make things smaller, heat lamp to make things bigger.  Works a treat, just replaced the clutch lifter bearing on my 750 last night, froze the bearing and heated the lifter plate, slipped right in.

As to the wheel bearings, me, I'd get the bike running and see how they feel.

mystic_1

[shizzomynizzo]

he installed the rear bearings. I have the new front ones still in the package.

I asked him what he did, and he said he used an impact driver and a hammer. He said it fit perfectly in the center of the bearing to allow him to hit it real good.

They spin, don't seem damaged, the seals look good, but I just dont want to have to take this all apart again in a month or two.

The recesses were masked before powder

[shizzomynizzo]

I will try em out, worst case is I will disassemble it again this winter

[srook]

The bearings are supposed to be driven in by the outer lip not the center.  I would assume that's why they were so hard to get in.  Try em and see.  The worst that can happen is you need to replace the rear bearings.
Scott

[mystic_1]

He said it fit perfectly in the center of the bearing to allow him to hit it real good.

Thats very ungood.  As srook says, bearings should always be driven in using the outer race, to avoid applying sideways loads on the ball bearings themselves.  When you drive from the center, the balls can get flat spots, and the races can get divots, from the forces.  These bearings are fully named "radial ball bearings" because they are designed to resist radial loads, not lateral loads.

Having said all that, unless he actually cracked the bearing cages or races, the bearings will work, for a while.  If they're borked, you'll have vibration, excess heat, and possibly some play in that area.  Keep a close eye on them

mystic_1

[Terry in Australia]

Yup, I had the front wheel bearings go on my BMW R100RS, due to overuse of a steam cleaning machine at work (I washed all the grease out) and after one spirited ride (100+ MPH) I detected a wobble, so rode home, jacked it up, dropped the front wheel and the bearings fell out in small pieces of rusty filth. Would have been a lot worse if it'd siezed though..........

[wildcatmahone]

Man, a hammer shouldn't be anywhere near ANY KIND of bearings! All I gotta say is some threaded rod, washers and some nuts is the way to go for installation.