Author Topic: Bat out of hell Build (Read 27246 times)

Roach Carver · « **Reply #25 on:** September 13, 2010, 06:53:59 PM »

those pipes seem very VERY short.

1980cm400t · « **Reply #26 on:** September 17, 2010, 02:36:53 PM »

Is there any reason not to have short pipes? I realize they will be loud but is there any other issue that can be caused by pipes that are only 1-2 feet long?

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 17, 2010, 02:50:52 PM »

from what i recall if they are way too short you can bend a valve. pipes that short that you show will be shooting flames out big time. no idea on what a safe length for you valves is. i could be wrong as my knowledge in motors is mostly in SBCs

Roach Carver · « **Reply #28 on:** September 17, 2010, 05:25:17 PM »

the engine needs some back pressure. pipes that short will provide very little. dont know if you will bend a valve but I suspect it will run terrible.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #29 on:** September 17, 2010, 07:33:47 PM »

thanks roach you made my mind click. at least with a v8 what remember is to run super short headers you need a substancial head job in all areas and some big carbs to need that little of back pressure. like my sig said some things i know others i dont. take it with a grain of salt.

1980cm400t · « **Reply #30 on:** September 18, 2010, 10:05:25 AM »

hmm well to be fair if i removed the muffler (very easy) the stock pipes are only about 4 feet long and are 4 into 1 so they don't have much back pressure to begin with. Fire blasting out of the pipes would be awesome but i want the engine to run well. I think i will take your advice in part and extend the pipes a little maybe 2-3 feet and add a slight curve. If i can't get the fire i may shorten them to the original plan but we'll see

Roach Carver · « **Reply #31 on:** September 18, 2010, 06:07:13 PM »

i think to get fire you are going to have to make them very short. trial and error I guess. your bike, its whatever floats your boat.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #32 on:** September 19, 2010, 03:37:15 PM »

Quote from: Roach Carver on September 18, 2010, 06:07:13 PM

i think to get fire you are going to have to make them very short. trial and error I guess. your bike, its whatever floats your boat.

I would run the slash cut drag pipes that cycle x sell and run a flame thrower that the hot rod guys use, i think it is a small tube or tubes, plumbed into the pipes that allows a bit of fuel into the pipes when a button is pushed.....instant flames.....

You will burn out valves with those pipes you have on there now, way too short.

Mick

BrianAdair · « **Reply #33 on:** September 19, 2010, 05:16:07 PM »

I have never tried this, but someone told me a cheap easy way to get flames out the exhaust.
Drill a hole in the pipe, weld a threaded coupling that will fit the threads on a spark plug, thread it in and hook it up to your coil where it gets spark. It will burn excess gas fumes that come out the exhaust.

Again I have never tried this, as I'm thinking about it now, if you had it hooked to say the #1 wire it would only flame when #1 is firing...... and if you have your carbs adjusted right, you shouldn't be running rich... So I don't know if this idea would work or not. Some guy I worked with way back told me this trick, guess you could put a switch in-between where you could turn the spark on and off....

Bluegreen · « **Reply #34 on:** September 19, 2010, 06:58:03 PM »

I know it's not an SOHC, but the concept is awesome. And so is the album. Love the skull man.

HedNut · « **Reply #35 on:** September 20, 2010, 08:11:06 AM »

About the sparkplug in the exhaust... it 'somewhat' works. A buddy did it to his 92' dakota in highschool. A sparkplug and a coil. He would rev the #$%* out of it...and when he let off the gas it would light a neat lil' flame that was only visible at night. If you want REVVING flames...definately put a touch of fuel to it.
That'd be BADASS!

srook · « **Reply #36 on:** September 22, 2010, 09:06:10 PM »

To get flames out of the pipes you need fuel. One way to do this is to hit the kill switch while riding the bike. The pipes will get fuel in them as the motor turns. Flip the switch back into "on" mode and boom - flames out of the exhaust. You still need the spark plug close to the end of the pipes to light the mixture. Gary Nixon used to do this on his Triumph short tracker in the 60s. Its not really practical but it will shoot flames out every once in while. You need to be on the gas when you hit the kill switch to get alot of fuel into the pipes.
Scott

BrianAdair · « **Reply #37 on:** September 22, 2010, 09:15:50 PM »

I don't know about on motorcycle engines, but they are pretty much the same concept, as a car or truck engine. My dad done the killing the engine while driving and kicking it back on, it would backfire and dropped valves in the head...... $:-\$
So, I have never tried that since he done it when I was around 10 yrs old...

1980cm400t · « **Reply #38 on:** March 06, 2011, 06:24:25 PM »

Time for an update, its been a while since the last one. I decided that in order to be truly badass the motorcycle must have a kick starter. The model i have is an 1980 so it does not come with a kick starter already installed but has some of the facilities in place for one. After doing some research into whether this could be done or not I found 2 prevailing opinions. The most popular opinion was that in order to install a kick starter the engine case would have to be split and that the modification was not worth the effort. The second opinion was from a guy who claimed he did it without splitting the cases but couldn't recall exactly how he did it or provide photographic evidence. The following is a series of detailed instructions including photographs (excuse the blurry ones my camera sucks) on how to do the mod without splitting the cases that is hopefully detailed enough that anyone who wants to do it can do so.

1980cm400t · « **Reply #39 on:** March 06, 2011, 06:46:34 PM »

First of all the things you need. (i will be refering to the diagram below for parts)

Kick axle 1 which can be purchased used of ebay (it is pictured below)

it will probably contain #'s 1-5 on the diagram. you will probably have to purchase #'s 6 and 7 the washer and oil seal (i got them from bike bandit). The next part you will need is kick axle 2 which also can be purchased from ebay. The only parts you need from the 2nd kick axle are #'s 13, 14, and 17-19. all the other parts are already in your engine (or at least they are for a 1980 11 special)

1980cm400t · « **Reply #40 on:** March 06, 2011, 06:56:11 PM »

The first step of the mod is to remove the right hand side engine cover i.e. the clutch cover. Drain the oil first and then remove the clutch and the 3 bolts (#16 in the above diagram). Then remove the ratchet cover (#15 in the above diagram). I highly recommend that you replace your clutch plates and springs at this point (or at least mic them and make sure they are still good) as you will have to remove them to get to this point and it will save you time later. At this point the engine should look like this:

once again sorry if they are blurry

1980cm400t · « **Reply #41 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:05:08 PM »

next step install the ratchet and spring combo #'s 13 and 14 (in the bottom right corner of the following picture). I coated it fresh motor oil prior to installation so it doesn't snag.

1980cm400t · « **Reply #42 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:13:16 PM »

Next step (this one is critical or you will destroy your gears) rotate the ratchet so that the feeler is in the downward position. see picture

Then install the ratchet cover #15 make sure the feeler fits into the slot

1980cm400t · « **Reply #43 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:20:43 PM »

You can check to see if the feeler is in the slot by rotating the the 2nd kick axle. In one direction it should crank the engine flywheel (the gear in the top right hand in the engine pictures above) in the other direction it should spin freely and not grind into the transmission gears. Once checked install the 3 bolts #16 onto the ratchet cover.

1980cm400t · « **Reply #44 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:26:44 PM »

next step install the gear, washer, and c-clip #'s 17-19 coat with oil prior to installation. The clip can be purchased for pennies at napa which is much cheaper than the manufacture. I recommend getting a pair of clip pliers for this (it will save you tons of time and aggravation of fishing dropped clips out of the oil pan)

1980cm400t · « **Reply #45 on:** March 06, 2011, 07:45:33 PM »

finally install kick axle 1 (also coated in oil) along with the washer and oil seal, if the purchased axle did not include them. There is an accommodating slot in the engine casing for the axle shaft and a finger that is designed to hold the spring on the first axle. There is also a catch on the back of the kick axle that prevents the axle from rotating a full 360 degrees. In order to install this correctly install the axle and spring and rotate in the opposite direction of the kick stroke until the catch hits the stop. Note the location that this occurs. Then partially remove the kick axle so that it can be rotated past the stop while at the same time keeping the spring on the finger (this is tricky as the spring will try to hop off). Now rotate the kick axle in the direction of the kick stroke for over a full rotation while holding the spring on the finger. At this point the axle will be hard to hold in place from the tension, push it the rest of the way into the slot. If the axle was rotated far enough the catch will hit the stop and keep the axle under tension, if you didn't go far enough the axle will spin a full rotation and you will have to try again.

1980cm400t · « **Reply #46 on:** March 06, 2011, 08:04:35 PM »

At this point the internal work is done the clutch can now be put back in. To remove the axle plug from the cover i put the cover on some boards and drove it out with a center punch. The clutch cover gasket will probably need to be replaced as well. At this point you can install a kick lever of your choice (i used one from a yamaha 750).

1980cm400t · « **Reply #47 on:** March 06, 2011, 08:05:49 PM »

Thats all i have on this mod if anyone has any questions or comments feel free to ask.

Free Booter · « **Reply #48 on:** March 06, 2011, 08:55:01 PM »

Looks like it'll be an easy build in terms of the mods you'll need to match the picture.

All you need now is to grow your hair long, buff up w/ some muscles and get naked.

Assuming you already have the 1st two things ...all ya gotta do is trip down and ride!

One Question though (and I'm surprised no one asked already)...WTF IS IN THAT AIR CLEANER?!?!

Eggs? from a snake or a chicken?? Potatoes??? Severed human toes preserved in plastic? Drug Mule capsules? OMG...Aliens!?!??!

Just that. Thanks for sharing the pics...

Anti-Johnny · « **Reply #49 on:** March 06, 2011, 10:11:31 PM »

I dont know about riding a motorcycle naked. And I think the guy on the cover may be in ecstasy. Hes definitely fu**ing that bike is what Im saying. I might be inclined to do the same if it was required to make the bike fly.

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Author Topic: Bat out of hell Build (Read 27246 times)

srook