Topic: Correct number of clutch and friction plates??? (VIDEO ADDED)

[odin836]

Fitting back together the clutch (basket is finally on after a little bit of force).

How many of each plate should there be?

I removed 7 metal plates and 7 friction plates initially from my CB 750 K2.

However the schematic below shows that I should only have 6 metal plates and 7 friction.
The schematic shows the clutch pressure plate (PP) followed by metal plate (MP) then a friction plate (FP), then a metal plate, then a friction etc...

PP(1) > MP(1) > FP(1) > MP(2) > FP(2) > MP(3) > FP(3) > MP(4) > FP(4) > MP(5) > FP(5) > MP(6) > FP(6).


Why would the bike initially have been fitted with an additional Metal Plate?  
Where in the order would this slot in?




4  DISK A, CLUTCH FRICTION (7 Of)
6  PLATE, CLUTCH (6 Of)



 

[odin836]

Further reading and investigation tells me that the previous owner may have put the additional clutch plate somewhere in the center of the setup in place of the riveted steel plate (read thats commonly done).

Is this worth doing?  It would explain why I have the extra steel plate...
If I did this it would allow for movement of about the same thickness as the metal plate, if I skip the extra plate then I'll have more space for the plates to move.

Somewhere around 76 Honda changed the clutch assembly, adding a double thickness riveted steel plate in the center of the clutch sandwhich.  The entire depth of the clutch package was increased.  The outer most friction disc also had a wider tang that mated with a wider slot in the outermost portion of the basket.  If your clutch is this later type then your "69-78 kit" will probably not work correctly as it is probably designed for the earlier clutch.  I ran into this problem with APE's extra plate performance clutch when I tried to use it on my 78ks clutch.  Make sure that you examine you clutch parts carefully and compare the stock pieces to the Barnett setup. . . . .From what I have read, Honda used stronger springs (don't know about length) in the F2/F3 clutches to keep things from slipping with the higher powered engine.  Clutch springs aren't particularly expensive and I have had good luck with heavier springs that came with the APE kit (the only part of the kit that I could use).  Perhaps you should just buy a set of heavy duty springs and not worry about the wear limits of the stock ones?

I'd like to put this thing back together today if possible, but reluctant to do so without some feedback from the gurus here.

[dave500]

as far as skipping a plate the clutch might not release completely if the stack is too short.,if it was working ok before just put it all back together.

[odin836]

Thanks Dave,

Looking at the schematic, it shows a Clutch Pad going directly onto the Pressure Plate.
As far as I can tell this would result in only 6 Friction Disks being required.
(example shown below)

Pressure Plate

Clutch Pad1
Friction Disk -1
Clutch Pad2
Friction Disk - 2
Clutch Pad3
Friction Disk - 3
Clutch Pad4
Friction Disk -4
Clutch Pad5
Friction Disk - 5
Clutch Pad6
Friction Disk - 6


Part 4  DISK A, CLUTCH FRICTION (7 Of)
Part 6  PLATE, CLUTCH (6 Of) - but would require 7!


Is the schematic WRONG?
Putting a Friction Disk first, would result in the correct number of Pads and Disks (example shown below).

Pressure Plate

Friction Disk -1
Clutch Pad1
Friction Disk -2
Clutch Pad2
Friction Disk - 3
Clutch Pad3
Friction Disk - 4
Clutch Pad4
Friction Disk -5
Clutch Pad5
Friction Disk - 6
Clutch Pad6
Friction Disk - 7

Part 4  DISK A, CLUTCH FRICTION (7 Of)
Part 6  PLATE, CLUTCH (6 Of)

[dave500]

a friction disc should be the first one in against the centre hub

[odin836]

Clutch together.
Decided to go with 7 friction disks and 6 clutch plates - hopefully made the correct choice.

I now need to torque to 32.5-36.2 ft-lbs
Whats the trick to stop the clutch from free spinning as shown in the video?

[dave500]

wedge a piece of rag between two gears somewhere.,large enough not to get dragged through.