Topic: Front Axel nut Help

[cwchan]

Hi all... here's some pics of my front axel.  I'm pretty sure there should be a hole on one end... but not on mine... any suggestions on getting this one off?

[MCRider]

I thought so too, but turns out later models did away with the hole.

Your best bet may be to clamp it back in the fork lower, only with the wheel outside of the forks. Then bust the nut loose.

You may be able to do it with the wheel in its regular position, I just don't know how much room you have to get at the hex.

[mystic_1]

It appears to me that the first pic shows a flat that you can get a wrench on?

mystic_1

[MCRider]

It appears to me that the first pic shows a flat that you can get a wrench on?

mystic_1

Yeah there is a flat there, a poor substitution for the hole that it replaces. Its' not enough to grab when the nut is really tight.

We saw this in a prior thread from someone with the same problem.

[cwchan]

just tried bolting the wheel back in and sliding a wrench in btween the fork and the wheel... no go.... ima gonna pick up a 22mm deep socket tomorrow and see how that works... thanks MC

[cwchan]

still won't budge.... i went to the Honda shop and the guy suggested that i drill a hole where there is supposed to be one and try... what do y'all think?

[bwaller]

Put the end in a vice with soft jaws.

[MCRider]

just tried bolting the wheel back in and sliding a wrench in btween the fork and the wheel... no go.... ima gonna pick up a 22mm deep socket tomorrow and see how that works... thanks MC

That's why you'll need to swing the wheel to the outside of the fork and get a MAN's wrench on it. At least 24 inches, maybe use a piece of pipe on the wrench. A deep well socket on a breaker bar WITH a cheater bar (pipe) is at least what you'll need.

[cwchan]

Result!!! ended up using a 22mm deep socket, bench vise, 2 square walled screw drivers(to fit in the flats) and a length of pipe.... the tough part was keeping the table the vise was bolted to from shaking (was kinda far from the table with all that leverage)...Thanks all

... now another issue... i was planning on adding a 2nd disc brake... but the hub is notchless....

[bryanj]

Either gat an earlier 500/550/750 hub with the flats; cut two flats on yours; drill ant tap the hub and hold the plate on with coutersunk cap screws

[cwchan]

Either gat an earlier 500/550/750 hub with the flats; cut two flats on yours; drill ant tap the hub and hold the plate on with coutersunk cap screws

the thought i had was to grind out some notches in the inner diameter of the disc rotor...

[rangelov]

Either get an earlier 500/550/750 hub with the flats; cut two flats on yours; drill ant tap the hub and hold the plate on with countersunk cap screws

I pretty much agree with the above suggestions.

BEST solution:
The least expensive (and best) route would be to drill & countersink the driver and drill & tap the hub to retain the driver.  Mount the driver to the hub, drill both, then continue modifying each of them.  This will ensure centering.  Ensure adequate clearance between the gearbox and the screw head (s) by using very small screw(s) say 3 mm or less.  A small enough countersunk flat head screw should be flush with top of the driver.  ONLY RETENTION IS NEEDED, minimal torque is needed to drive the speedometer.  You may need only one screw.  And then reduce the outer diameter of the driver to 62 mm (same as hub). 

Good solution:
You can cut 2 flats into the hub.  Then you can use my driver.   But that defeats the intention of a drop-in installation (no modification needed) and makes it more expensive.

Good Solution:
Swap out hubs.  Relacing and trueing a wheel isn't fun.

Not really viable solution:
The stock driver doesn't even fit the rotor.  Too much cutting of the rotor and/or the driver.  You would need to remove a lot of material and it still might not work.  And it probably wouldn't look good.  This is the main reason that I created my replacement drivers.