Topic: Eliminating Steel Line to Front Brake Caliper

[ProTeal55]

Did you just drill the rivets out? What about crap all over the engine? Kinda sucks to have #$%* flying everywhere doesnt it?

I did just that. At first , I was unaware that their actually was a brace in the fender, and was running with nothing up front.
Anything over 60mph and I could actually see the legs "dancing", which wasn't cool...I drilled out the rivets, and I had my brace. The cost was low (Free) , doesn't look all too bad, and def. keeps the fork tubes
togther.

As far as crap getting all over me and the bike , I can honestly say it is not that bad. Yes, if you drive thru a puddle you are getting it in the face, but for riding the bike the better part of last season without a fender, I can't really complain. For the look I want , the fender had to go.

[KCs76Cafe]

After getting tired of being looked at like I was stupid when I asked about a fitting to go from the braided hose to the caliper........I took the advice of 3 people I talked to today.

I had tried using a 35* banjo with the banjo bolt from my old master cylinder but the bolt was too long and it would bottom out in the caliper before it tightened up on the banjo fitting. So after not being able to find an adapter, I tried finding a shorter banjo bolt. No such luck.....even the Honda shop said they werent available.......nobody would ever need them.  I figured since the new bikes have a banjo fitting on the caliper, it was worth a shot to see if was shorter.  Oh well..

So I did what the 2 cycle shop owners( parts/service and a customizing shop) suggested. I cut the banjo bolt, shortening it by about 2-3 threads. They said losing the inverted flare on the end wouldnt matter because the crush washers did the sealing. I tried it and got my line hooked up no problem.....no leaks. That braided line sure makes a difference. 

Heres a pic.......just a 35* banjo fitting and a shortened master cylinder banjo bolt. And I know I should have the line on the inside of the fork, but after I cut my front fender down the "keeper/hanger" will pull it in tighter.

[KCs76Cafe]

Now one question off the original post subject........ whats the easiest way to get that old snotty looking inspection sticker off of my forks that you can see in the above pic?

Im thinking of making a bolt on plate for the sticker. When I get the forks cleaned up and polished, I dont want a sticker anywhere near them.

[ProTeal55]

KC---->
That setup looks tight ! Nice and clean, as it should be.
Anyone know if they sell a banjo I could just buy without cutting one ?

Now one question off the original post subject........ whats the easiest way to get that old snotty looking inspection sticker off of my forks that you can see in the above pic?

The product Goo-B-Gone works like a champ for bastard stickers such as that one. If you want a brushed alum.look, go over your lower legs with some steel wool. It will make Russel from Excile Cycles proud ! 

[TwoTired]

The product Goo-B-Gone works like a champ for bastard stickers such as that one. If you want a brushed alum.look, go over your lower legs with some steel wool. It will make Russel from Excile Cycles proud ! 

Goo-B-Gone will work.  If you have some lighter fluid (naptha) that can work as well.
A caution about steel on aluminum.  Aluminum is soft and particles of steel can embed in the aluminum.  Along comes water and other impurites and a small battery is created.  The result is dissimilar metal corrosion.  If you want the brushed look, use fine silica or aluminum oxide paper.  Then a good clear coat and you can have it looking fine for years.

Cheers,

[KCs76Cafe]

KC---->
That setup looks tight ! Nice and clean, as it should be.
Anyone know if they sell a banjo I could just buy without cutting one ?

Yeah....the brake line looks clean........now to get the rest of the front end like that.

Just remember its the banjo bolt that has to be shortened....not the banjo itself. Just making sure you didnt misunderstand me. I tend to rattle on at times. Especially when Im talking about the bike and how close it is to being rideable.

And this one time at band camp.............   

[ProTeal55]

I am know to ramble myself, at times 

Pardon my ignorance on this topic, but the banjo bolt you shortened is what thread pitch ?
I am guessing it is metric, correct ?
I mean , I cant go into a HD dealer, hit up the Goodridge wall , and get a banjo bolt that will work , right

[KCs76Cafe]

I mean , I cant go into a HD dealer, hit up the Goodridge wall , and get a banjo bolt that will work , right

  Not sure.......the HD dealer that I went to didnt stock anything.....had to order it. Then when the banjo fittings/bolts came, the bolts were standard. They are the Ness Techs with the polished rounded head with a Torx hole. I should have known they would be standard and not metric. I used the banjo fittings and ended up using the banjo bolt that came with the Suzuki Katana master cylinder for up top and the banjo bolt from the stock master cylinder was the one I shotrened.

The bolt size is supposed to be 10mm x 1.25mm.......all I know is the caliper threads are the same as the master cylinder threads.

Hope that helps 

[ProTeal55]

The bolt size is supposed to be 10mm x 1.25mm.......all I know is the caliper threads are the same as the master cylinder threads.

This 10mm X 1.25mm Size you speak of, is this the length the Banjo bolt SHOULD be, for fitting nice in the caliper , or the length YOU cut yours to be, so it fit without washers ??

Just trying to figure it out, so I can order the right one , and not have to cut anything...

[KCs76Cafe]

I think 10mm is the diameter and 1.25mm is the pitch of the threads.

I just used the old banjo bolt out of the Honda master cylinder.......it screws into the caliper fine just bottoms out before it seals. I cut 2-3 threads off of it. And you have to use the copper crush washers or it wont seal off.

If I hadnt already bled mine I would take the bolt back out and measure it for you......after the cut.

[eldar]

Well I got my brake line from helusa. It was not quite what I was expecting. I ended up sending my old, cracked line to them and I think they got confused. The line is the correct length and looks great and I bet will work as good as any galfer for half the price. I thought I was going to keep the steel line but I got a hose from master to caliper. The hose however is smaller than I had seen on other bikes and may fit with no problems. The service and speed from helusa.com was outstanding and so I really cannot gripe at all. The line will work just fine and probably last the life of the bike.

[ProTeal55]

I thought I was going to keep the steel line but I got a hose from master to caliper. The hose however is smaller than I had seen on other bikes and may fit with no problems.

Welcome to the society of riders who aren't running the stock hard line ! 

10mm X 1.25mm is what I will get , and modify as I need........
Thanks KCs76Cafe

[Rob Lloyd]

If you want to get rid of the hard line, you don't have to run a short banjo bolt. The seat in the caliper for the hard line is steel (pressed in) and can be drilled out fairly easily. I've done it several times. Just be carefull not to nick the thread. With that seat out of the way, a standard length 10mm banjo bolt fits into the caliper. With a shortened banjo bolt, you only get like 3-4 threads engaged. Not very secure for the brake line...

[KCs76Cafe]

With a shortened banjo bolt, you only get like 3-4 threads engaged. Not very secure for the brake line...

I only shortened the banjo bolt by 2 threads......so I dont think it compromised it. Was alot easier than drilling the caliper I think.

[ProTeal55]

With a shortened banjo bolt, you only get like 3-4 threads engaged. Not very secure for the brake line...

I only shortened the banjo bolt by 2 threads......so I dont think it compromised it. Was alot easier than drilling the caliper I think.

I think I agree with KCs76CAFE on this one.
I would rather cut down ,or better yet find a shorter Bnjo bolt , than run the risk of messing up two calipers (dual-disc) with me getting "drill-happy"

Def. a good tip though 

[bwaller]

Rob is right, there isn't much thread available, if you shorten the bolt, use new crush washers and be sure not to overtighten it or you'll ruin the caliper anyway. But hey go for it.
I had a caliper with a damaged seat, so drilled both calipers and ran a blind tap in each which gave several more threads for a banjo bolt.

[ProTeal55]

I had a caliper with a damaged seat, so drilled both calipers and ran a blind tap in each which gave several more threads for a banjo bolt.

Thats a great idea, as far as adding more threads....

[BobbyR]

Well since I started this post I guess i should report back. I decided to keep my hard line for looks and function. I did buy a line from HEL and spoke to them twice. Very professional people, and the hose fit perfectly. It is thinner than the stock line. I have a suspicion that the inner diameter of my old hose may have been smaller than you would expect. The old hose may have been layered in thick cord and rubber to handle the anticpated pressure. The Stainless wrap eliminates the need for that bulk. I have not road tested it yet, but the lever travel  handle is about an inch rather than 1/2 full travel. Nice part is, it matches the the clutch cable for a neater look.

[techy5025]

The best improvement I made to my brakes was to go with stainless lines and the
post above is correct.  They are smaller and don't fit as well in the round clip behind
the front fork.  There's almost no play in the brake lever now.

Jim

[crazypj]

Braided lines dont expand as much ( or at all) compared to the rubber lines. You will notice a difference in feel. If your going dual disc you need a master cyl that moves more fluid as well or brakes will be as spongy as a spongy thing. I used CB650 but twin disc wing will look more 'period' otherwise just find something you like the look of and its better if you know what it came off incase you need a rebuild kit.
PJ

[ProTeal55]

I got myself a master off a Buell for my Dual-Disc project. It is small , black, and came at
a good price (free).

[Zane]

Well since I started this post I guess i should report back. I decided to keep my hard line for looks and function. I did buy a line from HEL and spoke to them twice. Very professional people, and the hose fit perfectly. It is thinner than the stock line. I have a suspicion that the inner diameter of my old hose may have been smaller than you would expect. The old hose may have been layered in thick cord and rubber to handle the anticpated pressure. The Stainless wrap eliminates the need for that bulk. I have not road tested it yet, but the lever travel  handle is about an inch rather than 1/2 full travel. Nice part is, it matches the the clutch cable for a neater look.

I'm appreciative when topics are sort of 'tied up'.  It's good to read what folks did (or didn't do) or what they learned.

Everyone has their own taste, and I'm glad you opted for the route you did.  Now that the weather up here has been decent enough to allow for some riding, I'm even more pleased with my over-winter brake modifications.  The front brake is so much more positive and direct - it feels significantly better.  There is no doubt in my mind now, too, that the drilled rotor has made one heck of a positive difference in stopping power in damp, wet, and extremely wet road conditions.  The steel line helps too, I'm sure.  It's all firm, tight, and good.  I can stop far better now, and I could stop quite well before.  As for changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 fluid - everything feels fine so far, although I suppose time will reveal whether or not the DOT 5 negatively impacts any seals or rubber parts.

Call me crazy, but the only thing I might do in addition, is to paint that front caliper metal pipe, a bright yellow.  I painted the rear drum mechanical brake control rod yellow, and it looks pretty good.  I think I'll do the same thing up front, and see what it looks like.  (I painted the rear rod yellow because I just wanted something easy to see when I glanced at that part of the bike.  It's an important part, and I like to be able to assess it visually, quickly and easily.  I find the yellow helps me do that.