Author Topic: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions  (Read 1058 times)

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Offline singedebile

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got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« on: September 13, 2010, 11:20:17 AM »
Alright, as some of you have seen i just recently purchased a beautiful 1975 cb550f  with 30,000 miles. Its my first bike but I had been putting plenty of miles on my friends cx500 before hand.


I have run about two tanks of gas through it, and as the last 2 owners barely rode it (though fortunately they didnt have it long) this has been mostly to wake up the bike and get a feel for what is good etc...

Naturally I have some quick questions as I start to try and understand/maintain and ride this machine. Despite this being my first bike, I really dont plan on (or can conceive of a reason for)  "upgrading", I want to take care of this bike as well as I can.. and will keep it indefinitely, but I will be ridding regularly and in everything but snow and ice.
 
1-How much should I really let the bike warm up before ridding it? ... for now I will let it idle a couple minutes then take it easy for the first few miles before giving it too many rev's.. (adjusting the idle at stop lights as need be.. before it settles down at about 12-1300) It also makes a light kuckluck sound when its idling much lower then that
2-Is it ok to primarily use the kickstart? was it designed mostly as a backup? (the electric start works great, but i really enjoy kicking it over)
3-The paint is in flawless condition and unfortunately I will be keeping the bike outside most of the time...  how important is it for me to get a cover for it? would a half cover like this http://www.newenough.com/parts/accessories/covers/dowco/guardian_traveler_motorcycle_cover.html be enough? Should I invest in a full cover? preferably I would have something that could still fit under the seat but I dont know how reasonable that is. What about covering most of the metal on the bike with something to protect it..  What should I know keeping the bike outside?
4-The bike really does not like to be under about 3000 and first gear is fairly touchy, this is all normal right? I am much more used to driving cars and shifting sooner to save gas when I dont need the power, but I understand that will also drain the battery.. so around town I usually keep it at about 3500-4000
5-Shifting into neutral can sometimes be almost impossible and other times is very easy.. but seems to have little relation to how warm the bike is
6-The clutch gives quite a bit of resistance to hold (my reason for shifting into neutral when I can at a long stoplight) How easy is it to adjust/change this?

I am sorry I know in a month or two these questions will seem incredibly naive.

I love the bike, its exactly what I was hoping it would be! and I look forward to all the great times I will have on it!
1975 cb550f super sport, 1976 Yamaha IT400, 1974 Suzuki T500

Offline Duke McDukiedook

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2010, 11:30:07 AM »
1- 30 seconds to circulate the oil and get it to a reasonable temp and longer if the ambient temp is below freezing. I usually let the bike warm up with a couple of minutes of riding before I start opening it up and stomp on it.

2- No damage done there although you might want to button start it every now and then just to keep those parts operational, moderate use will help.

3- get a cover that can breathe, you don't want one that traps moisture.

4- once the bike warms up the bike likes to stay in the power band, 3k is limping along.

5- rolling the bike slightly will help you shift from 1st to neutral and back a little easier. You may want to adjust your clutch also.

6- you'll want to consult the manual and determine whether it will be easy or hard for you to adjust your clutch. It shouldn't be that hard though.

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Offline Gordon

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2010, 11:43:10 AM »
1.  Unless it's really, really cold, you shouldn't have to let it warm up more than about 30 seconds before riding it.  The faster it gets up to normal operating temperature, the better, and riding it is the best way to do that.

2.  Using the kick-start is fine.  These are kick-start bikes with the electric start added as a sales and convenience feature, IMO.  

3.  I like those half covers and plan on getting one soon because where I'm moving to I won't have covered parking at work.  I don't know about being able to fit it under the seat, though.  You have to make sure that it will fit without blocking the air intake.  Perhaps a small fork bag?  If I were parking my bike outside all the time, though, I would probably get a higher quality, full cover.

4.  "Touchy" under 3K can differ depending on the rider's experience with these bikes.  In 1st gear you have to be gentle with the throttle, whether rolling on or off, or the bike will behave very jerky.  A loose drive chain will also make this worse.  3500-4K sounds about right.  I keep my 550 closer to 4K-4500, but I also have it geared down some for quicker acceleration.  

5.  Try adjusting the clutch.  You may have to do a little trial-and-error, but you should be able to find the sweet spot where it will slip into neutral easily.


Edit:  You beat me to it, Dukie, but since I already typed it I'll go ahead and post it. :)

Offline singedebile

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2010, 11:57:22 AM »
great responses thank you!

glad to hear its the other way around in regards to the kickstart!

above 6500..  my car 'training' combined with actually hearing the engine in full chorus still makes me hesitate but I am warming up as the the bike does..  I am sure she will be singing more frequently as days pass
1975 cb550f super sport, 1976 Yamaha IT400, 1974 Suzuki T500

Offline Gordon

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2010, 12:07:13 PM »

above 6500..  my car 'training' combined with actually hearing the engine in full chorus still makes me hesitate but I am warming up as the the bike does..  I am sure she will be singing more frequently as days pass

Once you get more used to it, and more confident in its abilities, you'll come to love the sound your bike makes when it's screaming down a straight stretch of road at 8,000 rpm. 8)

Offline Deltarider

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2010, 12:29:25 PM »
Start and the time you need to put on helmet and gloves is enough. It takes some time (15-20 minutes or 10-15 kms) before these coldblooded bikes are really well warm. When warmed up, you can hit redzone as much as you like and you can maintain say 7000 rpm for hours. These bikes like that. Always shift to neutral before the bike has come to a complete stop. The more rpms the easier these bikes shift. I know people that don't bother to use their clutch when upshifting.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2010, 12:35:11 PM by Deltarider »
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Offline P_Camps

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2010, 12:46:23 PM »
Hey bro... as a fairly new rider and owner of a 78 550k I can relate to the questions you have.  I've been riding for about 2 months and these are some of the things I did to get my bike running almost perfectly!

*Pulled the carbs (never even seen a carb in my life) unscrewed the float bowls and gave them a good cleaning.

*Tightened and lubed my Drive Chain

*Changed spark plugs


My bike feels practically new in comparison to before... and one more thing about the idling.  If you get the carbs synched then your bike will start with less choke and Idle without so much fuss. 
1978 CB550

Offline TwoTired

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2010, 12:48:54 PM »
1-How much should I really let the bike warm up before ridding it?
If you are using the recommended 10-40W oil viscosity, none, assuming the oil light is dark, but working properly.
Just don't wail on the throttle until it will accelerate as normal without any choke.

... for now I will let it idle a couple minutes then take it easy for the first few miles before giving it too many rev's.. (adjusting the idle at stop lights as need be.. before it settles down at about 12-1300) It also makes a light kuckluck sound when its idling much lower then that

I never readjust idle while operating.  Warm up, idle up, is done with the right hand on the throttle.  When it is warm it idles right where it was adjusted last time it was warm.
Warm up concerns are not so much the revs as the load placed on internal parts.  Keep the Rs down below 5000 while warming to save the cam lobes and followers.  
The warmed engine was made to be revved.  See the tach, it says anything below 9200 is wonderful.  It is.
The Kluckluck is uneven cylinder firing pulses, changing the rotational speed of the crank, and trans gears.  The gears alternate contact engagement of of tooth gear tooth sides.  Pulling in the clutch will change to pitch as it change the mass and the force needed to change rotational speed.  Some bike can be made quiet with careful carb vacuum balance.  Others, do it because of uneven cam wear or other items that make the cylinders fire with slightly different strength at idle.

2-Is it ok to primarily use the kickstart? was it designed mostly as a backup? (the electric start works great, but i really enjoy kicking it over)
Kickstarter has "endless" life, and can be used for full time duty.  I drove my 74 for 2 years straight with a weak battery, unable to electric start.  Then the battery got REALLY bad.

3-The paint is in flawless condition and unfortunately I will be keeping the bike outside most of the time...  how important is it for me to get a cover for it? would a half cover like this http://www.newenough.com/parts/accessories/covers/dowco/guardian_traveler_motorcycle_cover.html be enough? Should I invest in a full cover? preferably I would have something that could still fit under the seat but I dont know how reasonable that is. What about covering most of the metal on the bike with something to protect it..  What should I know keeping the bike outside?

Weathering is going to make the bike look worse corespondent to the severity of exposure.  Here in California the sun will damage everything exposed, vinyl, paint, plastic, rubber, etc.  Water and ice will also create it's own type of damage.  Acid rain = bad.
Best solution is a heated garage, of course.  A full cover probably next best.  But, some covers with not breath and trap condensation under it.  A humid environments like that with accelerate metal corrosion.  Not only for looks, but all the electrical connections will corrode/oxidize.
A half cover is good for block sun damage effects, yet allows good ventilation to dry things inside it.

4-The bike really does not like to be under about 3000 and first gear is fairly touchy, this is all normal right?
Pretty much, Though I don't know what you mean by "touchy".  Throttle operation should be predictable/reliable in any gear.  But, if you are snapping the throttle full open at low RPM, you can expect it to wheeze before any power occurs.  Up to 1/2 total throttle travel should give reliable acceleration, with the lower gears allowing the revs to build the fastest.

I am much more used to driving cars and shifting sooner to save gas when I dont need the power, but I understand that will also drain the battery.. so around town I usually keep it at about 3500-4000
Cars don't usually have a 9200 red line.  Your RPM selection is normal and the lowest reasonable while in traffic.  The stock muffler allows it the still be pretty quiet.  Other mufflers will usually draw attention and annoy others, possibly even the driver.

5-Shifting into neutral can sometimes be almost impossible and other times is very easy.. but seems to have little relation to how warm the bike is
This can be a simple clutch adjustment, or inadequate oil integrity, or friction plate warpage.  At any rate, it is a clutch issue.
Minor clutch drag can be tolerated by keeping the rear wheel turning while making the selection.

6-The clutch gives quite a bit of resistance to hold (my reason for shifting into neutral when I can at a long stoplight) How easy is it to adjust/change this?

The springs in the clutch increase resistance when compressed in a linear fashion. For this reason, the clutch actuator uses an over-center concept.  This creates an non-linear pressure advance as it is actuated.    It trades increasing travel distance for less required force applied.
The over-center positioning point is adjusted on the clutch cover.  Then the cables are adjusted to position the clutch lever in a comfortable position, while still achieving both full engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

From your descriptions 5 and 6, I would try to readjust the clutch to ensure full disengagement.  If you get this right, the force needed to hold the clutch in will be less than what is needed at mid-clutch lever travel.

Cheers,



Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

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Offline Gaither

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2010, 06:03:00 PM »
Singed

Ain't these guys great!

They got me out of the trouble I was having with electric stuff.

Say, you've got yourself one good looking 550!

May we all ride safely with a wide grin.
Gaither ('77 CB550F)

Offline Stev-o

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #9 on: September 13, 2010, 06:57:16 PM »
#3. Find a garage to park in! Especially if you want that paint to stay flawless and the bike not to get stolen.
'74 "Big Bang" Honda 750K [836].....'76 Honda 550F.....K3 Park Racer!......and a Bomber!............plus plus plus.........

Offline faux fiddy

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2010, 05:20:23 AM »


3-The paint is in flawless condition and unfortunately I will be keeping the bike outside most of the time...  how important is it for me to get a cover for it? would a half cover like this http://www.newenough.com/parts/accessories/covers/dowco/guardian_traveler_motorcycle_cover.html be enough? Should I invest in a full cover? preferably I would have something that could still fit under the seat but I dont know how reasonable that is. What about covering most of the metal on the bike with something to protect it..  What should I know keeping the bike outside?

Weathering is going to make the bike look worse corespondent to the severity of exposure.  Here in California the sun will damage everything exposed, vinyl, paint, plastic, rubber, etc.  Water and ice will also create it's own type of damage.  Acid rain = bad.
Best solution is a heated garage, of course.  A full cover probably next best.  But, some covers with not breath and trap condensation under it.  A humid environments like that with accelerate metal corrosion.  Not only for looks, but all the electrical connections will corrode/oxidize.
A half cover is good for block sun damage effects, yet allows good ventilation to dry things inside it.

 [/quote]

Don't forget wax. Some of the new stuff works really good, helps painted surfaces to shed water, and I think it should help minimize sun damage, makes it look better. Not much surface to do on a bike either.

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Offline singedebile

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Re: got some good ridding done on my new cb550f and some questions
« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2010, 11:30:30 AM »
Thanks again for all the help, I just took another great ride today...  ive got maybe 300 miles on it in the past week. I will be getting a cover for it in the coming week and am going to have my local vintage mechanic look over the bike now that its been warmed up a bit. I will have to convince my roomates to let me find a spot for it inside this winter or maybe I can find a spot in my room (i live in a warehouse so its not as crazy as it sounds). I am definitely getting a good feel for the bike now, and really has plenty of power even when ridding at speed.
1975 cb550f super sport, 1976 Yamaha IT400, 1974 Suzuki T500