Topic: Tips for making the clutch pull lighter/easier?

[Scott S]

 I had a chance to ride a fellow forum members CB500 yesterday (Thanks Paul!). The clutch lever is much softer and easier to use on his bike.

 I have no reason to believe that I have anything other than stock springs in my clutch basket. The cable is new, but aftermarket. The perch is a Honda perch.

 Are there any tips or tricks to keep my cable/lever from feeling so hard to pull?

[736cc]

Grease lever pivot and where cable enters ands exits sheath; remove cable and shoot wd40 down it at both  ends a few times while pushing cable in and out

[bwaller]

No bull#$%*...that's the difference between Honda & aftermarket clutch cables.

[KingCustomCycles.com]

Moving the perch in so you are pulling further out on the lever can help.  Better leverage.  I would also look at the routing, any tight bends will dramatically increase friction.

[Scott S]

No bull#$%*...that's the difference between Honda & aftermarket clutch cables.

 I was kind of guessing that was at least part of it. I know the same manufacturer made a throttle cable that was/is crap. Adjusted it all the way out and still too long! Spent $43 on a genuine Honda cable and all is right in the world!

 Maybe I'll see if I can find a genuine Honda cable and lube it up real nice.

[bwaller]

Lubing pivots, routing the cable are all very important.

I used aftermarket cables when I built the 550 for my wife and wasn't long switching back to Honda quality.

The difference is imediately evident.

[mystic_1]

Do I remember reading here that OEM Honda cables have teflon linings and shouldn't be lubed?

Also, don't use WD40 as a lube on anything, it's a solvent/protectant.

mystic_1

[KingCustomCycles.com]

WD40 removes scuffs from vinyl floors and tar from car fenders.  Not much good for anything else.  Corrosion-X is my lube of choice......

[Bodi]

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's OK in an emergency if something's squeaky or sticky but it will just evaporate and gum up soon, a real lubricant has to be used for a longer term fix.
Nothing wrong with motor oil for lubing cables. Occasionally when the lever pull gets stiff I undo the clutch cable at the lever end and point it upwards. Then I pull our the dipstick and let the bit of engine oil on it dribble down the cable inner wire and seep down into the sleeve. A few of these and the oil eventually works its way down the cable and frees up the clutch pull considerably.
Cable routing is super important. A sharp bend in the cable will make the lever pull herculean.

[Spanner 1]

Raid your kids toybox and pull out the tub of 'Playdough' in there ( WTF?)  Kneed a piece into a cone shape around the top of the outer cable ( cable clamped vertical ) and pour some engine oil in the' funnel' you have just created.... wait a few mins. until oil is visable at the bottom cable adjuster, works great!!

[MCRider]

Assuming you have all the hardware sorted and you still want some relief, I had one of these on every bike my wife rode, GS300, ZL600, and a few others. Works wonderfully. You need enough handlebar width to fit it in, cafe bars are too narrow for example.

http://www.amazon.com/Moose-Racing-Easy-Pull-Clutch-System/dp/B001DDH1LE

[Ichiban 4]

Don't forget silicone spray..as a lubricant.  I've found that a once a year shot on all cables..keeps things nice and free.  If you use the plastic tube that comes with most spray cans..you can put it right up to the cable ends..just like using an oil can.  I much prefer the silicone to oil nowadays..as it doesn't build-up..get sticky with time.

Product I use is called "Kel" pure silicone lubricant.  Apparently they make two types..one food grade (uses vege oil as Carrier I believe) or regular..which has petroleum based carrier. Will see if I can find their Website..then add to this post.  Their phone number is: (800) 334-2130
________________________________________________________

Okay..here's the URL for the "Kel" silicone product: http://www.kelloggsprofessionalproducts.com

Cheers,

Ichi