The maximum power output from an alternator is a function of its design: the magnetic flux strength sweeping the output coil, the number of wire turns on that coil, and the wire gauge of that coil. The induced field alternators on our bikes use electricity to generate the magnetic field via the field coil - this electricity is controlled by the regulator to vary the alternator's output power.
No replacement regulator can put more electricity into the field coil than the stock regulator. Period.
So no replacement regulator can give you more alternator power than the stock regulator does. Period.
The Oregon unit works fine. It does the job of controlling system voltage and charging the battery correctly... IF the rest of the system is in good shape.
Most charging problems are caused by one or both of two things:
1 - degraded wiring harness. The connectors and fuse/switch contacts corrode and acquire a bit of resistance. This lowers the system voltage. The lower system voltage can not produce as strong a magnetic field from the field coil and that reduces alternator power output.
2 - Too much load. There's a maximum alternator power for each model's design. Add H4 lights, running lights, radio, heated grips, heated vest... and the load power gets to or above the alternator's maximum output power. This doesn't kill the bike: load power drops rapidly as voltage drops but the alternator output power drops less quickly (load power goes down exponentially while the field strength goes down linearly). These will equal and the system will settle at a lower voltage than what will charge the battery. You can ride around fine but the battery won't charge... so eventually the starter won't spin and your lights will be a bit dim, horn weak, and flashers slow.
SO a new regulator is not a magic bullet to fix your charging woes. The stock regulator rarely fails. It's easy to test it, not so easy to adjust (it although such adjustment is attempted rather often, usually with poor results).
