Author Topic: wheel bearings  (Read 1939 times)

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Offline carl550k

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wheel bearings
« on: March 07, 2006, 08:36:58 AM »
 is there any way to tell if the bearings are bad? as far as i know they are the original,(1976). the bike rides fine all the way to 75 mph, no shakes or wobbles. also whats the easierst way to replace them? is there a special tool? i dont want to invest in a tool to only  use once.     thaxs, carl

Offline SteveD CB500F

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2006, 08:41:15 AM »
In my experience you can "hear" or "feel" worn wheel bearing rumble when you turn the wheel by hand.

If it rides as you say, why worry?
SOHC4 Member #2393
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Offline bill440cars

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2006, 09:39:29 AM »
In my experience you can "hear" or "feel" worn wheel bearing rumble when you turn the wheel by hand.

If it rides as you say, why worry?

   Exactly, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!  ;)

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Offline TwoTired

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2006, 10:14:08 AM »
My guess is that carl550k is envious about reading that all the 750 guys are doing all this work to their bikes and he is feeling left out since his bike just keeps running with so little "M".
 ;D

This should keep you busy.
Checking rear wheel bearings--------
Put bike on center stand, engine in neutral (or better yet, get the chain off the rear sprocket).
1. -  Push back and forth at wheel rim parallel with the rear axle (side to side).  If there is motion while frame remains stationary, determine if wheel hub is moving while axle is stationary.  If so, replace bearings.
2. - Take a long screw driver and place tip on axle end and place handle end in ear socket.  Spin rear wheel and listen for grinding/crunching noises.  If you can't differentiate from the chain noise, get the chain off the sprocket.  Repeat for other end of axle.

Good bearings will spin silent and not allow wheel rim side to side motion.

Front wheel bearings are checked in the same way except there is no chain to deal with, and you have to prop up the front of the bike so the front wheel will freely rotate.

The bearing retainers need a special tool to remove and get at the bearings, plus they are often staked to make removal difficult even with the special tool.  Honda dealers have the special tool.  I wrestled with a retainer briefly, without success.  But, when my Honda dealer said $25 to change the bearing plus parts cost, I brought my wheel to them and was thoroughly entertained while watching them struggle and grunt for 25 minutes 'til the retainer finally turned free.  I happily paid the bill.

There, now you can get your hands dirty just like the "big bike" guys.   ;D

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
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Offline cb650

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2006, 11:46:54 AM »
That retainer can be a #$%*!!!!    Made my own tool for the 650.  Ruined one in the 360.
Been replacing all the bearing just of the age and the new sealed bearings are much better.



                  Terry
18 grand and 18 miles dont make you a biker

Offline ofreen

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2006, 02:06:47 PM »
  Made my own tool for the 650. 

I made one, too.  I made it out of a socket I didn't care about, a fender washer, and four nails.  Works pretty good.
Greg
'75 CB750F

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Offline Dave Wyatt

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Re: wheel bearings
« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2006, 07:59:25 AM »
My original Honda rear wheel bearings only had the "seal" on one side.  I got the number off of them and went to a local industrial supply company for replacements after Honda Scared me with their price.  I got normal sealed (seal on both sides) bearings for less than half of what Honda wanted.  I used a hammer and punch to work the retainer out.
Dave Wyatt
1976 CB750A
1965 C100
2008 GL1800
I swear, the damn things are starting to breed!