Author Topic: Oil filter bolt stuck (Read 13030 times)

RupertB · « **on:** October 09, 2010, 01:24:24 PM »

Any ideas on how on earth to remove the oil filter bolt from my CB750? So far I have rounded off the nut, cut a groove in the head and impact-drivered it, then tried again after a good dose of heat with a blow lamp. Now contemplating cutting the head off to remove filter housing and trying to get the remains of the bolt out, but this seems a bit barbaric.
Any patent tips anyone?

Kevin400F · « **Reply #1 on:** October 09, 2010, 02:23:16 PM »

Get a hex nut with a bore large enough to fit over the remains of the old chewed-up hex (presumably the stock 12mm), then weld the new larger hex nut to the old filter bolt, applying the weld inside the new nut bore. The heat of welding may help break the bond between the filter bolt and th housing, but with the new big hex you'll get it the bolt out

RupertB · « **Reply #2 on:** October 09, 2010, 02:56:32 PM »

Thanks - that sounds less risky than cutting bits off it! Out of interest (opinion only!) do you reckon the sticking point is bolt head to housing or the actual thread way down in the threaded part of the bolt? Is this a common or at least known problem with long-left 750s?

CrankyOldGuy · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2010, 03:23:44 PM »

Rupert,

I will let you know in a week or two if the bolt sticks in long-left 750's ... my bolt has not been off in 34 years.

I am waiting for some oil filters (along with a new bolt and gaskets) to arrive before I try. Maybe buying the bolt was a premonition on my part.

Harry O.

SOHC Digger · « **Reply #4 on:** October 09, 2010, 03:29:21 PM »

If the hex-nut method doesn't work, I would go the route of cutting the head off and removing the oil filter housing. Parts-n-more has new oil filter bolts for ten bucks. Once the housing is off, you can direct heat right to the threads (being careful of course as the case is aluminum). The sticking point, in my opinion, is most likely the threads into the block. Aluminum and steel like to bond after a while. Good luck! Let us know what works! I am one of those sick puppies who actually gets off on extracting broken bolts just for the challenge.

Kevin400F · « **Reply #5 on:** October 09, 2010, 03:48:59 PM »

In every case I've encountered, the sticking was between the bolt head and the filter housing, not the threads in the block. Since they're immersed in oil, they live happily together. The external contact area, on the other hand.........

MCRider · « **Reply #6 on:** October 09, 2010, 03:52:10 PM »

Quote from: RupertB on October 09, 2010, 02:56:32 PM

Thanks - that sounds less risky than cutting bits off it! Out of interest (opinion only!) do you reckon the sticking point is bolt head to housing or the actual thread way down in the threaded part of the bolt? Is this a common or at least known problem with long-left 750s?

Agree with Kevin its usually the bolt flange to filter housing interface that sticks. When the head comes off, for those that have chopped off the heads, the housing comes off and the remains threads out.

AS to common, let's say it happens. Don't know if its age as much as the PO just overtighrtened it in the first place, then it aged.

sharpinski · « **Reply #7 on:** October 09, 2010, 03:53:29 PM »

I did this, literally, last week. I was at my wits end. A machinist buddy of mine got the bolt out with chisel and hammer. Use the chisel on the outer edge of the filter bolt (the round part, not the nut itself). Make a dent with chisel and hammer in that round edge. Then, put the chisel at an angle in the dent, so that when you tap your chisel with hammer, you're moving it in a counter clockwise direction. Be patient and keep at it. Took us about 10 minutes tops to remove bolt and replace with new one.

tomkimberly · « **Reply #8 on:** October 09, 2010, 03:55:52 PM »

Use a small pipe wrench, works every time I've run into this problem.

Tom

CrankyOldGuy · « **Reply #9 on:** October 09, 2010, 04:16:42 PM »

A set of vise grips with sharp teeth should do the trick as well. Clamp them on as tight as possible. Then turn.

ekpent · « **Reply #10 on:** October 10, 2010, 06:28:58 AM »

Been mentioned before and always works for me is to hammer an 11mm,or suitable smaller size QUALITY socket on to the mangled threads and give her a go. Little heat won't hurt. Try it,you will like it

MoMo · « **Reply #11 on:** October 10, 2010, 06:52:30 AM »

One thing that works for me is to smack the bolt with a brass mallet-the shock of it seems to loosen the bond between the bolt and engine case. After a few whacks the bolt comes right out with a wrench if the head is good or a pair of vise grips if the head has been buggered. Good luck, Larry

RupertB · « **Reply #12 on:** October 10, 2010, 12:23:53 PM »

Thanks folks - plenty of food for thought. As with all these things participants divide into 2 categories - those who have taken a decision as to which technical innovation/bodge to use and succeeded, and those with the problem who have yet to decide how to deal with it. I would favour the likelihood that the threads should have at least a modicum of oil on them so will try to work on the head/housing area. Probably regular applications of heat and a splodge of WD40 or similar every time I go past. Probably for weeks! I had a similar problem with my Le Mans getting the front engine bolt out - it is exposed to the elements and had then sat in a shed for nearly 25 years. Heat and cold, patience, WD40 and finally loss of patience with an impact driver and a lump hammer did the trick! I'll let you know. A new bolt is on order from David Silver who seems to be a good supplier.
It is an indication of how long the bike has stood that the clutch cover and starter cover were full of cobwebs, and I swept a load of conwebs and leaves off the rear of the engine and out of the cylinder barrel fins because they constituted a real fire hazard to the blow lamp. As we probably all say - 'what have I let myself in for?!'
Brilliant forum by the way, thanks again for the ideas and help.

Gaither · « **Reply #13 on:** October 10, 2010, 01:26:09 PM »

Good experienced advice here.

FWIW

This might work for you if you can get to it with an air wrench.

Get one of those sockets that are made to remove stripped (rounded) nuts & bolts. Turn the air wrench to the lowest setting and be VERY patient. As you know, the air wrench doesn't "twist" on a fastener, it rapidly "taps" on it - which is good.

I had a tightly stuck spark plug in a 4.6 Ford that just would not budge with reasonable force on a breaker bar. The heads are aluminum and plug threads are VERY easy to strip. (Plugs are located in a deeeep, blind hole.)

Yeah, I squirted some Blaster in the hole.

Using a 1/2" air wrench turned to its lowest setting, after about 3 minutes, the plug slowly began to turn (patience). It came out with no thread damage (thank goodness!).

Had I attempted to force it out with the breaker bar, I would have stripped the threads for sure!

Good luck - whatever method you choose!

RupertB · « **Reply #14 on:** October 18, 2010, 03:03:54 PM »

Gaither - lost your email. Book on its way!

Gaither · « **Reply #15 on:** October 18, 2010, 03:11:32 PM »

Rupert

Great! I look forward to receiving it.

Thanks

Gaither

Really? · « **Reply #16 on:** October 18, 2010, 03:48:19 PM »

I couldn't find the thread but there was a guy that took a cutting wheel to the housing to get it off.

ekpent · « **Reply #17 on:** October 18, 2010, 04:04:32 PM »

OK rupert---enough of the small talk. Did you ever get your dang bolt off or not and did you finally after giving it much consideration just hammer a smaller one on and turn the damn wrench.So much drama sometimes and we never hear the end---they just faaaaade away-------

Eric

RupertB · « **Reply #18 on:** October 19, 2010, 03:19:21 PM »

Gaither gave me a suggestion which worked a treat - there was enough bolt head squareness to accomodate a decent socket which I hammered (gently) into place with a rubber mallet, and then attached an air-powered drill or socket thing whatever it is called. Using the lowest power setting on the air power I let it just use the sort of hammer effect and after a matter of a few seconds the thing turned and came undone, to the sound of my jaw hitting the floor in amazement. The gentle effect of the air worked where an impact driver had failed - no idea why, but it did. It was definitely the washer to filter housing that had stuck rater than the thread into the crankcase by the way. Gaither gets a free copy of Prisoners Property and Prostitutes for his help!
Further work has revealed it as 64mm pistons which would indicate an 810cc conversion, with STD stamped on them. Looking hord work but entertaining - just need to rob a bank for the funds to get on with it!

SOHC Digger · « **Reply #19 on:** October 19, 2010, 04:11:24 PM »

Thanks for the update! I've learned something today.

dulcimerbob · « **Reply #20 on:** October 19, 2010, 05:06:35 PM »

I hammered a 10mm socket on the mangled bolt and used air powered impact tool and backed it right out.

ekpent · « **Reply #21 on:** October 19, 2010, 05:58:41 PM »

Thanks for the update also,I wonder sometimes how problems turn out for folks. Congrats also on finding a big bore kit hidden in there,as they say "score" Eric

sbparks · « **Reply #22 on:** October 19, 2010, 07:44:53 PM »

Guys,

I had to grind my bolt flush, drill a hole in it and use an 'easy' out to remove my oil filter bolt.

This was after hammering on the 11mm socket, attempting to create a slot for a screwdriver (I just recently threw the broken screwdriver away after cracking the tip off) and applying heat. None of these method worked for me!

The easy out (and more heat) was the only thing that worked for me.

Fortunately, on my newest bike project (another honda that can't be discussed on *this* forum), the oil filter bolt came right out for me.

Scott

KurtTheSquirt · « **Reply #23 on:** April 15, 2017, 03:58:12 PM »

Hello all, I recently acquired an 81 CB650 and planned on changing the oil and filter right away. I however also went to turn the oil filter bolt and found it to be already rounded and stripped. I went on eBay, purchased a new one and when it arrived went to work. It however was rough and probably the mostly finicky bolt I have ever removed. The one bit of advice I do have with this bolt is this, PATIENCE. A word I'm not particularly fond of at times especially when things aren't going my way. Anyhow, I learned that after feeling completely defeated after trying nearly every (arguably good) suggestion on this post, I finally came to grips with the fact that I'm going to have to slowly work this bad boy off. At first I lathered the bolt with penetrating oil and let it sit for hours, then tried vise grips, then a plumbers wrench, then I gently hammered on a smaller socket and tried to remove it that way, but ultimately I used a combination of Sharpinski's and Gaither's advice to get this bolt out. After heating the bolt with a torch and tapping at it with a screwdriver unsuccessfully I finally wised up and decided to see what kind of tools my next door neighbor (who happens to have five bikes) had. He had both chisels and an air wrench. I then took Sharpinski's advice and made a notch in the bolt flange with a chisel. I then was able to tap the screwdriver into the bolt at a counter clockwise motion to loosen things up. This took several minutes before any change. I then had my neighbor concurrently loosen the bolt with vise grips while I tapped at it. This FINALLY broke the seal between the bolt and filter cover. That tapping motion (like an air wrench) along with loosening the nut is what actually worked. I guess had this not worked I probably would have considered welding a larger nut over the stripped bolt to see if that worked, but fortunately it didn't have to come to that. Thank you all for the input and help and I hope to see you guys around during my next motorcycle maintenance adventure.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #24 on:** April 15, 2017, 06:15:24 PM »

On my '82 650 motor the oil filter bolt was stuck just like this. I didn't waste any time and went right to welding a nut on it. Came off right away. I don't mess with any other tricks anymore. If it's really stuck I weld a nut on and move on to the next pain in the ass.

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Author Topic: Oil filter bolt stuck (Read 13030 times)