Topic: Sandcast #97 restoration

[Greggo]

Nice work Mark.  I want to hear about that advance unit.  Maybe I need to check 371's?

[markb]

Check out my post on this thread.  I would like to know what's on yours.  Got a pic?
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=34454.msg1631564#msg1631564

[Greggo]

I responded over there as well.  371's is like your later sandcast advancers.  It is not slotted.  That is a cool piece if you can save it, but I can see how that might not be possible.

[754]

Soak in vinegar the steel parts will come clean.. How bad is the cam on it?

[markb]

I responded over there as well.

That thread is actually on this site.

[markb]

Soak in vinegar the steel parts will come clean.. How bad is the cam on it?

It's hard to tell for sure at this point but it isn't looking good.  I guess the vinegar can't hurt it. 

[754]

The weights may be made of sintered (powdered) metal..not sure on those but the steel take it off inappropriate day or two. ..try just the cam end and see.

[Greggo]

I responded over there as well.

That thread is actually on this site.

Ah, I see.  I did respond over on SOOC.  I'll take a picture this week.  I had to pull 371 after the rebuild due to leaking above the head gasket.  I suspect it's coming from the puck near the cam tunnel on the #3 cylinder.

[markb]

I saw about your leak.  That's too bad, I've been there.  Good luck with the fix. 

If yours is the same as my later sandcasts probably don't need a pic.  It's looking like E100's is off a later unit.  It's exactly like the F2 version, slots and all.  Oh well it will save me some work.

[markb]

I soaked the advancer in Safest Rust Remover and I was able to clean it up enough to read the markings.  Besides the timing marks there is a TEC logo on one side…


….and a 300 with an arrow on the other side.


On another post I read that some of the early sandcasts used a 450 advancer but this is definitely not a 450 advancer.  I looked in parts manuals and this shape with the slots shows up in the 1975 and later K and F models.  I also looked in early parts manuals and shop manuals and they have the same shape as my later sandcast ones.  I don’t think mine is original.

[kmb69]

Mark, I believe you are correct and I was wrong with my first post. I did some further research and found the early spark advancers, -005, were Hitachi with no slots. An early, 7-69, Parts Catalogs call for the -005 and all Hitachi parts on the points plate. The -154 is a TEC with the slots. Not sure when it changed. Lucky me, I have a NOS, -005 that's now destined for E69 unless I learn something different. Keith

[markb]

Thanks for the confirmation.  The good news is I won't have to worry about saving it. 

[markb]

I’m working on getting my engine covers ready to assemble.  I decided to tackle the hardest part – paint the black on the alternator cover logo.  I’ve got two polished and clear coated so I am going to do them both.  First step – mask them.  I don’t worry about getting right on the edge but the closer you get the less paint you have to remove.


Next step painting.


Last step – remove the masking and the excess paint.  I used to use a different clear coat that wasn’t affected by acetone.  This clear is so my plan was to use alcohol to wipe the paint off.  I did a test on piece of aluminum that I had sprayed with my covers, wiped right off.  So I had a little panic attack when I did it for real.  I must have let it dry a bit too long but I finally got it off.  Whew!  It’s kinda fun to see two smooth logo, thin-lipped alternator covers side-by-side. 

[edwardmorris]

Very cool! I was going to go the oil sharpie route but this is more in tune with my compulsive ways 

[markb]

Good luck.  Just a caution on what you use to remove the paint if you have a clear coat.  I thought for a minute I might have to redo mine. 

[andy750]

Beautiful work Mark

[Old Scrambler]

Restoring Jewelry Now

Merry Christmas!

[SOHC]

those covers look awesome nice work

[markb]

I know, I know, you guys are going to think I’m nuts.  I have been striving to restore this engine as accurately as possible.  After having it pointed out to me that the original engines didn’t have green gaskets, I decided to correct it. It was a bit of a challenge finding original black gaskets but I found them.  Here is the engine with the new cylinder base gasket installed. 


While I was at it I changed out the 6mm head screws.  When I tore the engine down four of them were a hex head but only one was the special cross hex head that’s called out in the parts manual.  It was mixed in with the four that are under the cam towers.  I initially decided to put it back together the same way.  Then I remembered that a previous rebuild I needed to by one and could not get the cross hex head so the hex head version is probably a later part.  This engine had definitely been apart and not put together completely right.  For example, it had six 6mm studs on the head instead of four.  So I think there is a good chance that the special cross heads were replaced.  The special screw on the back side of the head is also a distinction listed on the SOOC site that goes up to E1106 so now that’s what I put there.


I looked through all my fasteners and the screws that I have from other sandcast engines are the special cross head screws.  So now the other four are the specials too.  I’m pretty convinced that this is correct.  It doesn’t matter now.  It’s not coming apart again.   By the way, the puck hole isn’t dirty like it looks in the picture.  Must be something with the flash or lighting.


Altogether it took me a little over 4 hours, not including letting it sit overnight and retorqueing the head, and including adjusting the tappets.  It sure makes a difference when it comes apart easy and everything is clean.  I hate to say it but it was kinda fun.  I’m glad I did it.  If any of you see something else that you don’t think is correct let me know.

[Prospect]

Unreal.  I think you've upped the purist restoration to a whole different level - certainly one that I'm going to strive for when I restore engine 106...

[markb]

Thanks Prospect. 

Making some progress.  Got the oil pump installed.


Here’s my early oil pan ready to install.  No green gaskets here.


Unpainted oil pan in place.

[markb]

Ready to put on the valve cover.  I found a couple of different gaskets.


I’m not sure why but the one on the right has extra material on the rear, side corners.  I believe the one on left is the correct one so that’s what I’m using.


Here’s a shot of the inside of the early waffle valve cover.  It’s too bad that one of the most signature features of the real early engines has to be covered up.  


Here’s something that’s giving me a headache.  Notice the difference in the original screws and newer replacements.  The originals have an average of 15mm of thread for almost any length screw.  The new ones are threaded all the way.  I’ve been trying so hard to use all correct screws and so far with screws from several engines I’ve come up with enough.  I think I might come up short though.  I might have to temporarily use some new ones and change them out as I find them.  I don’t even know why I think about these things. Has anyone replaced theirs with new (or worse yet, stainless ) and have some decent originals they could sell?


So here’s the valve cover and breather cover in place.  Little by little.

[markb]

On to the clutch cover.  I’m not sure but I think the 10-hole gasket will work.  I was able to find a black 9-hole version.


Cover in place.  I’m really happy I went with the black gaskets.  The green gasket would have been very visible here.  I’m sure I would not have liked it.

[markb]

Next, alternator cover.  I was lucky enough to pick up a NOS coil.  Just to make sure I put the ohmmeter on it and measured 7 ohms – close enough to the factory spec.


Also got a NOS stator.  It checked out too.


Ready to put it together with my short-threaded screws.


Ready to mount on the engine.


Things were going good and then came to a grinding halt.  I need to get the starter motor in so I can mount the alternator cover.  I had also picked up a NOS starter motor years ago.  I decided I should test it too before I put it in just to make sure it was OK.  Should be a simple test.  Battery, jumper cables, negative terminal to the case, positive to the cable for a couple of seconds.  Nothing happened.  Is there a reason this shouldn’t work?  I’ve got a couple motors stored away.  I guess I’ll have to dig them out.  I was on a roll and I really thought I would be pretty close to getting the major engine parts together this weekend.  Oh well. 

[Greggo]

Nice progress Mark!  You wouldn't happen to have the specs handy for the two screws on the rear of the breather cover, would you?  I'm sure it's M6x1, but I'm not sure of the length.  I seem to have used them or lost them, and need a set before I put the motor back in.  Thanks!