Author Topic: Sandcast #97 restoration (Read 202984 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #675 on:** July 29, 2015, 09:23:13 AM »

Leave the lines

knottedknickers · « **Reply #676 on:** July 29, 2015, 10:10:26 AM »

Quote from: markb on July 29, 2015, 09:18:22 AM

This bike won’t get many miles on it and probably won’t ever get these lines worn off. For showing should I try to wash them off or just leave them?

I don't know about you, but the thought of trying to get rid of the line down in the tread grooves is enough to make me say, "Leave 'em!"

markb · « **Reply #677 on:** July 29, 2015, 10:27:53 AM »

Good point. I guess since my goal was to make it look like it came from the factory it would make sense to leave them on.

markb · « **Reply #678 on:** July 29, 2015, 10:37:12 AM »

After much research I determined that the carb insulator bands (carb to head) are finished in nickel chrome and the airbox bands are zinc plated. I found a NOS set of the airbox bands and since the insulator bands are unavailable I had mine replated. I think they turned out perfect.

Also the carb insulator bands have a square nut with a 22mm screw and the airbox bands have a hex nut with a 20mm screw. By the way, the colors in this pic are not the way the parts actually look. I was wearing a maroon shirt that must have reflected.

These features are on the early sandcasts. Beyond that I won’t make any claims.

markb · « **Reply #679 on:** July 29, 2015, 12:05:14 PM »

I had forgotten about my brake caliper until I was working on my wheels. I paint them the same color as the engine cases. I already had it apart but I couldn’t get the piston out. I seem to remember previously using a hose clamp to clamp an airline onto the bleeder screw and plugging the inlet and turning up the pressure until the piston came out. This go round I decided to make up an adapter tool. I drilled a hole in a M10 screw and tapped a hole for a #10-32 to ¼” tube fitting.

Then I put my adapter in the inlet, plugged the bleeder hole (could have just left the bleeder screw in) and hooked it up with a regulator. I set it in the vice just in case it would blast the piston out. I turned the regulator up to 100 psi and was disappointed at first because I didn’t think it did anything but when I took the caliper out of the vice the piston was half way out. The vice was preventing it from coming all the way out. So I opened the vice up a bit and turn the pressure up again and it came right out.

SOHC Digger · « **Reply #680 on:** July 29, 2015, 12:51:05 PM »

In the future, I would recommend using the grease gun method to remove seized pistons. I have yet to have a caliper piston that wouldn't walk out effortlessly with a grease gun. Compressed air has the potential to be one of the most violent and dangerous methods of removing pistons.

MCRider · « **Reply #681 on:** July 29, 2015, 12:55:49 PM »

Quote from: SOHC Digger on July 29, 2015, 12:51:05 PM

In the future, I would recommend using the grease gun method to remove seized pistons. I have yet to have a caliper piston that wouldn't walk out effortlessly with a grease gun. Compressed air has the potential to be one of the most violent and dangerous methods of removing pistons.

Agreed, the cleanup is a bit much, but the ease and safety can't be beat.

markb's adapter and such are elegant, though.

markb · « **Reply #682 on:** July 29, 2015, 01:33:45 PM »

I never thought of the grease gun. I like that. Because of the danger of the air blowing the piston out is why I trapped it in a vise.

MCRider · « **Reply #683 on:** July 29, 2015, 02:10:08 PM »

Quote from: markb on July 29, 2015, 01:33:45 PM

I never thought of the grease gun. I like that. Because of the danger of the air blowing the piston out is why I trapped it in a vise.

I resisted using the grease gun way for a long time, but the first time I tried it, Whoa! I looked it up and a regular pump handle grease gun delivers 5000psi+, but only while you push the handle. The threads don't match, but I just threaded it in as far as it would go, a turn or two, was all it took.

http://www.amazon.com/Plews-30-200-Standard-Duty-Grease/dp/B0016GZS2M/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1438204105&sr=1-13&keywords=hand+grease+gun

markb · « **Reply #684 on:** July 29, 2015, 04:09:26 PM »

I could easily adapt a screw to the grease gun.

I would still capture it somehow for safety.

SOHC Digger · « **Reply #685 on:** July 29, 2015, 04:31:40 PM »

Quote from: markb on July 29, 2015, 04:09:26 PM

I could easily adapt a screw to the grease gun. I would still capture it somehow for safety.

When these Pistons come out using the grease gun method, they just fall out. You can set the whole caliper on a shop towel and that's all the safety you need. There is no explosive force behind it because liquids like grease don't store energy the way gases do. They only transfer it. It is a completely safe method.

MCRider · « **Reply #686 on:** July 29, 2015, 05:01:55 PM »

Quote from: SOHC Digger on July 29, 2015, 04:31:40 PM

Quote from: markb on July 29, 2015, 04:09:26 PM
I could easily adapt a screw to the grease gun. I would still capture it somehow for safety.

When these Pistons come out using the grease gun method, they just fall out. You can set the whole caliper on a shop towel and that's all the safety you need. There is no explosive force behind it because liquids like grease don't store energy the way gases do. They only transfer it. It is a completely safe method.

Yeah, bloop, it just falls out.

One of the neatest tricks I've ever learned.

HondaMan · « **Reply #687 on:** August 02, 2015, 08:29:18 PM »

Quote from: markb on July 29, 2015, 01:33:45 PM

I never thought of the grease gun. I like that. Because of the danger of the air blowing the piston out is why I trapped it in a vise.

That's smarter than having to move the workbench (on the opposite side of the room) to dig out the puck.
(Don't ask...)

Mushu · « **Reply #688 on:** August 03, 2015, 11:07:28 AM »

New to this forum, I spent time to look at your project.

I am amazed by the level of detail that you take care about.

I understand that having the number 97 is a privilege.

Could you let us know prices with are involved for chrome parts and zinc plating?

I understand that you already have K0.

What is your motivation to restore an other one?

I will continue to follow your project which is very interesting.

Philippe M

markb · « **Reply #689 on:** August 03, 2015, 12:32:32 PM »

Thanks for your kind words.

Chrome prices depend a lot on how much polishing is required. Wheels I've paid $200 apiece. Fenders, $75-100. Handlebars, $50. Just to give you an idea. For some of the smaller parts it is cheaper to buy them than re-chrome. Zinc plating depends on the size of the batch. Just about everything for one bike I recall was $75-100.

Sometimes I wonder why I am doing this but seriously it is because I enjoy it.

Mark

markb · « **Reply #690 on:** August 03, 2015, 12:33:55 PM »

My anodizing is finally done. It took me 3 times to get it right but they look great.

I had close to 4 sets that I had done twice. First lesson: do a small batch and see how they turn out.

I brought them to a local plater along with a NOS part for an example. No problem. They would strip and anodize them. When I went to pick them up they were black but as flat as they could be. “If I wanted them shiner I should have asked to have them polished.” “But I showed you a part that was how I wanted it!” Didn’t matter. OK so I left them again for stripping, polishing and anodizing. When I picked them up they were a bit shinier but blotchy. “There’s nothing I can do about these old cast parts.” It turns out there are two processes for anodizing: sulfuric and chromic. Chromic is the required process. My plater does sulfuric and I could not find anyone in my area that does chromic. So I had them stripped, again, from my same local plater and polished them. I had them anodized at Sanford Metal Processing in CA. Like I said, they look great. So if you want to anodize your control housings and master cylinder here’s what you have to do.
1.   Have them stripped.
2.   Polish them (I don’t think you can overdo this step).
3.   Have them anodized using the chromic method.
I hope yours turn out as well as mine did.

SOHC Digger · « **Reply #691 on:** August 03, 2015, 01:05:42 PM »

The first time, when they turned out flat, how much did that cost? I might consider this for my master cylinders, and on my chopper, I would love them flat.

markb · « **Reply #692 on:** August 03, 2015, 01:17:10 PM »

It was around $200 but that was about 25 pieces. For one part it still may be $50-100. It was more second go round because they "polished" them. If you strip them and don't polish them they will come out flat even with the chromic method.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #693 on:** August 03, 2015, 01:37:34 PM »

@Mark Those controls and MC look nice!! Quite frankly this is the first set I've actually seen anodized correctly. I asked myself why I was doing it as well, and had that exact same answer, I enjoy it

@Digger, if you can live with Powder Coating instead of anodizing, reach out to Marc/Powderdan. I had my both my 750's controls and MCs PC'd flat/matte black and they came out great! Marc does the lettering in PC as well, not paint.

Desert-SOHC · « **Reply #694 on:** August 03, 2015, 05:04:45 PM »

Those look great!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #695 on:** August 03, 2015, 05:39:17 PM »

Yep! I love his work! My K3 controls came out great too, their coloring is custom, just like I asked. Sorry Mark, I promise no more threadjacking

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #696 on:** August 03, 2015, 07:47:13 PM »

Those look better than my NOS ones!

Justin · « **Reply #697 on:** August 04, 2015, 11:08:12 AM »

Hey Mark,

excellent thread that I have been following with great interest. I absolutely love your attention to detail!! I'm sure as I get more in to the meat of my project I'll be asking a few more questions. I have a question for the mean time...
Would it be possible for you to send me the measurements of the triangles on your frame there? I have a k1 that I want to hang 4-4 exhaust on and the previous owner hacked off the triangles where the rear foot rests mount and hang the exhaust. AND threw away some of the other goodies... like the centre stand. I think it looks like your bike may still have most of the pieces off that would block the triangles and I would love to have the measurements so I could build and install new ones for my bike, as I still have the marks in the frame where they once existed/attached the the rear most down tubes...

Cheers! Keep up the brilliant work. your many threads have been a GREAT resource for me and many others!!

Justin

markb · « **Reply #698 on:** August 04, 2015, 11:36:28 AM »

Would this help?

Justin · « **Reply #699 on:** August 04, 2015, 01:00:41 PM »

Quote from: markb on August 04, 2015, 11:36:28 AM

Would this help?

I think that should do! cheers, mate.

I have to check to see how accurate the drawing itself is but this be exactly what I needed. I think the actual triangles are more curved than the drawing shows but I should be able to replicate it. I wish I had another k0-k1 frame handy to check against
Thanks!!!

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Author Topic: Sandcast #97 restoration (Read 202984 times)