Author Topic: Sandcast #97 restoration (Read 197222 times)

markb · « **Reply #425 on:** January 06, 2013, 10:37:10 am »

While I was at it I figured I might as well clean up my oil filter cover with the fins removed. Can you tell which one is the real thing?

Of course you can tell when you look inside. The fake is on the left. I'll probably use it to test run the engine to avoid risking cracking the real one and put the real one later.

And you can also tell by looking closely at the surface. The real thing won’t be smooth. By the way, I'm not done polishing yet.

Greggo · « **Reply #426 on:** January 06, 2013, 10:39:52 am »

They both look great Mark, and I think the faker will actually match the look and quality of the rest of the bike. What are there, maybe a hundred of those smooth covers left in the world?

MCRider · « **Reply #427 on:** January 06, 2013, 10:59:09 am »

Quote from: Greggo on January 06, 2013, 10:39:52 am

They both look great Mark, and I think the faker will actually match the look and quality of the rest of the bike. What are there, maybe a hundred of those smooth covers left in the world?

Back before they were "valuable" many owners threw them out to "upgrade" to one with fins.

CycleRanger · « **Reply #428 on:** January 06, 2013, 11:38:54 am »

Quote from: markb on January 06, 2013, 10:37:10 am

And you can also tell by looking closely at the surface. The real thing won’t be smooth. By the way, I'm not done polishing yet.

Be judicious with the polishing, you don't want to "over restore" it!

markb · « **Reply #429 on:** January 06, 2013, 01:19:42 pm »

Quote from: CycleRanger on January 06, 2013, 11:38:54 am

Be judicious with the polishing, you don't want to "over restore" it!

Good advice, I agree.

markb · « **Reply #430 on:** January 13, 2013, 08:06:10 am »

My rear flange looked so bad before I removed the chain guard damage that I didn’t really notice additional damage until I was looking at it closer. There is damage on the outside of the four posts that most likely happened when the chain came off the rear sprocket. I was concerned that I would be able to remove it.

I picked the worst one and using just sandpaper was able to remove the gouges. It took a while but at least I know I can save it.

greenjeans · « **Reply #431 on:** January 15, 2013, 08:27:05 am »

Looks like you can save ANYTHING

You ever go to the Barber Vintage Festival or things like that ? I sure would like to see one of your bikes in person one of these days.

andrewk · « **Reply #432 on:** January 15, 2013, 12:05:13 pm »

I just read this whole thing, and WOW.

Nice efforts, Mark- nothing trumps tenacity, eh?

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #433 on:** January 15, 2013, 06:52:19 pm »

Mark.......I am very happy that your "home-made" welding rods worked so well

My motor builder and local salvage-yard operator needed to save a set of forks for a British twin project (Road Racer). We located a hydraulic-cylinder repair shop in Milwaukee who turned-down the tubes and re-plated with hard-chrome to the exact spec of a new tube. It cost a little over $100 per tube but new units were not available. Give me a shout if you ever need that type of repair.

Your attention to detail will make this bike worth a million bucks.......and then some

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #434 on:** January 16, 2013, 05:41:58 am »

Very Impressive build and I love the attention to detail. Keep up the good work..........Gary

y2kc0wb0y · « **Reply #435 on:** July 31, 2013, 05:10:24 am »

Haven't heard much on this restoration project lately. Are you just fishing these days?

markb · « **Reply #436 on:** July 31, 2013, 06:01:08 am »

I am. I'm at the lake every weekend and work has been busy too so I haven't had much time to work on it. I've managed to pick up a few more parts and got some stuff organized but realistically I probably won't get really in to it until October. My goal is to have it completed by spring.

HondaMan · « **Reply #437 on:** July 31, 2013, 06:08:08 pm »

Quote from: markb on July 31, 2013, 06:01:08 am

I am. I'm at the lake every weekend and work has been busy too so I haven't had much time to work on it. I've managed to pick up a few more parts and got some stuff organized but realistically I probably won't get really in to it until October. My goal is to have it completed by spring.

I had to come here and read your thread to get encouraged about mine. Thanks!
I haven't had trouble with the bike, just the machine shop. But, seeing what you're doing just nudged me on to where I'm now going to set up to do my own valve and guide work, from now on. I've had it with machine shops: it takes forever to break their bad habits and carelessness and do these heads right, and I have to inspect every one for sometimes hours afterward.

Time to be more like you, and do it myself.

You're a real encouragement!

markb · « **Reply #438 on:** August 01, 2013, 08:45:26 am »

Quote from: HondaMan on July 31, 2013, 06:08:08 pm

I've had it with machine shops

I hear ya. Some are good but the ones that don't listen and think they know what you want are the worst. One reason I have to try do some things myself to get them they way I want them. Thanks for the compliment. It helps when I'm working on mundane projects, like polishing, wondering if it's all worth it.

MoMo · « **Reply #439 on:** August 01, 2013, 04:14:53 pm »

Quote from: markb on August 01, 2013, 08:45:26 am

Quote from: HondaMan on July 31, 2013, 06:08:08 pm
I've had it with machine shops
I hear ya. Some are good but the ones that don't listen and think they know what you want are the worst. One reason I have to try do some things myself to get them they way I want them. Thanks for the compliment. It helps when I'm working on mundane projects, like polishing, wondering if it's all worth it.

Probably meditative for you and I'm sure it'll be worth it when you are done...Larry

markb · « **Reply #440 on:** October 20, 2013, 02:51:12 pm »

OK, I'm officially back at it. I had to read my own thread to try to figure out where I am.

I really should be finishing up my covers. They're about 90% done. But you know how that goes. The last 10% will take 50% of the time. I need to get psyched up for that but I wanted to start doing something.

So I saw where I had plastigaged my mains but I never got around to the rods. I noted that I had used yellow-green-yellow-green-yellow. I double-checked that against my notes and the charts and it seems like what I really need is green-yellow-green-yellow-green. Maybe I just wrote it down wrong and I don't know why but I didn't leave the bearings in the cases so I really don't know where I'm at. Besides, whatever I did put me at the high limit and was considering going up one size anyway. So I am going to order some browns and use the greens and order some blacks for the rods and redo everything.

I notice that the newer main bearings have two extra holes in them. Anyone know the purpose of this? I'd like to find some early style but I'm not sure it's worth it. I think I'm softening on my requirements for "correct". Also does anyone know a good source where I can buy them for less than $10 each?

Greggo · « **Reply #441 on:** October 20, 2013, 02:57:39 pm »

Glad to see you back at it Mark!

This thread is inspiration for my sandcast project

MoMo · « **Reply #442 on:** October 20, 2013, 04:25:28 pm »

Glad to see you're back at it Mark

markb · « **Reply #443 on:** October 27, 2013, 03:30:32 pm »

I plastigaged my rods. I decided to buy 1 pair of browns and check all four rods with them. Three of them came in around .0018” and the journal that I had reground was .0015”. The good news was none of them were tapered. Since .0018” is on the high limit I’m going to order blacks for the three bigger ones and stay with the browns on the last one. I ordered the browns for the mains but didn’t have time to do them yet.

HondaMan · « **Reply #444 on:** October 27, 2013, 09:32:38 pm »

Quote from: markb on October 27, 2013, 03:30:32 pm

I plastigaged my rods. I decided to buy 1 pair of browns and check all four rods with them. Three of them came in around .0018” and the journal that I had reground was .0015”. The good news was none of them were tapered. Since .0018” is on the high limit I’m going to order blacks for the three bigger ones and stay with the browns on the last one. I ordered the browns for the mains but didn’t have time to do them yet.

In "real life" I've often found that having the clearance at .0015" makes for a smoother engine and a little more HP at freeway speeds. It takes a long time to polish them back to that clearance!

The bearings all changed to the post-1974 versions (with the 2 holes in them) sometime around 2004, IIRC. Lately Honda has been subbing them all to the -425- part numbers from the 1977-78 engines. These also have the 2 holes in them, and also have grooves. I prefer the non-grooved versions, because of their extra bearing surface, but they are harder to find? They hold a little extra oil, though.

markb · « **Reply #445 on:** October 28, 2013, 05:33:56 am »

Thanks for the info!

markb · « **Reply #446 on:** November 03, 2013, 10:02:05 am »

I finished plastigaging my crank. I ended up with black-black-black-brown on the rods and brown-green-brown-green-brown on the mains. Everything was less than .0018 and most were close to .0015. While I was at it I finally put the setscrew plugs in the oil paths before I forget. They are an M6.0 x 10 cup point. If anyone needs some let me know. I have plenty.

Here’s the rods assembled on the crank. They felt real good. And it’s nice to have something put together.

SOHC Digger · « **Reply #447 on:** November 04, 2013, 04:54:56 am »

That's GREAT to have something assembled! And this is the heart of the whole bike- where linear motion is transferred for the first time into rotational motion!!! It's a great starting point! Keep it up!

markb · « **Reply #448 on:** November 04, 2013, 07:42:21 am »

I’d like to start putting my cases together soon and realize I’m going to need an oil pump. The one from E100 is locked up tight. I’m not sure I’ll even be able to rebuild it. Besides that one I’ve got two other pumps that came out of sandcast engines and three that came out of diecast engines. I think I will just tear the sandcast ones apart unless I need parts from the others and hopefully I can end up with at least two good ones. One of them feels real good and I can hear pumping noises when I turn the gear. Here’s a pic of the six. The E100 pump is the one on the lower right. The top row is diecast pumps and the other two are sandcast pumps.

Before I started taking them apart I carefully looked them over and made some interesting observations. There are four different versions that I see. Rather than clog up this thread with info that is probably only interesting to sand heads, I started a thread on the SOOC showing the differences I found.
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php?topic=1084.0

Don R · « **Reply #449 on:** November 04, 2013, 07:36:06 pm »

As a newly joined sooc member I'll read it there. I even passed the interview.

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Author Topic: Sandcast #97 restoration (Read 197222 times)