Topic: Sandcast #97 restoration

[CycleRanger]

If you want it spot on, the dwell and timing need to be set with the engine running when the crank will be assuming its "normal" operating position.

That's what I thinking when I made my suggestion.

[markb]

Gotcha.  I'll plan on doing that.  Thanks.

[Old Scrambler]

Nice work as usual

I learned to set my timing by rotating the T-mark to the very beginning of the static marker and have someone hold that position while tightening everything down. That way the chains have proper tension.  Mark, those sprocket covers were always a bear to get on and off

[markb]

Thanks Dennis.

I’m looking ahead at some of the frame stuff.  I got the tins sent out for painting (except for the tank which is done).  Fortunately I had a headlight bucket painted by the same guy that matches the tank.  I sent it along.  I’m also working on getting my handlebar controls ready for black anodizing.

In the meantime I’ve been looking at options for the wire harness.  As most of you probably know the correct harness would be the NLA 32100-300-040 and decent used ones are very rare.  I had been thinking I would make a facsimile from a -050 by removing the extra wires and replacing the part number tag.  I have a couple of new -050’s but they do look quite a bit different from the -040’s and I have a couple used -050’s but they are in pretty rough shape.  I also have two -040’s: one not so good but the other one is in really good condition considering its age.  Even the sleeve to the headlight bucket is flexible and not cracked.


So now I’m leaning towards using this harness.  Here’s a close up of the tag.  I wonder if I just used a little soap and water if it would clean up without taking off the printing.  The rest of it should clean up nicely except for the insulators.


That’s my hesitation to use it is because most of the insulators are yellowed, some worse than others.  Any tricks for removing the yellowing?  I seem to recall someone using an ultrasonic cleaner for wiring harnesses.  I’m not sure I would put the whole harness in it but it shouldn’t hurt the terminals.  I just don’t know if it would remove the yellowing.


I bought some terminals and insulators thinking I might replace some of them but it looks like some of the insulators are heat sealed on the wire.  I’m not sure how I would duplicate that.  Like I said, I’m thinking of using this harness thinking that a decent correct one will be better then a new fake one.

[markb]

Restoring the harness is going to be a big project.  Closer inspection shows it’s not as good as I thought.  I’m still researching and looking for sources.  I’m considering using the -050 for now to keep the ball rolling.  I’ve been working on getting parts ready for black anodizing too.  Here’s what I got ready to go.  Enough for #97 and 2 more projects.  I figured I might as well make it worth my while.

[markb]

I’m thinking of getting the engine in the frame this weekend but I want to finish one more thing.  Years ago I scrounged a bunch of the correct, early rubber inserts that go between the fins on the head and cylinders.  Later or replacements ones are black.  It will be the finishing touch on the engine.


I have good pictures showing the inserts in the cylinders but nothing showing the head.  The parts list shows 12 inserts on the head.  I have four sandcast heads and they all have only 8 total, 4 in front and 4 in back.  Here’s a pic of one of them showing the inserts in the front.


Here’s a pic of the back.  There is no indication whatsoever that there were any more than four on each side.  None of the dirt on the fins has been disturbed to indicate that there were any others.  All four heads are the same.  Can anyone confirm that there is only eight and that these are the correct locations?

[Greggo]

Just put my two sandcast heads in storage Mark, but I don't recall there being more than four on each side..it was the cylinders that had six or eight in front.

How pitted are those intake ports?  #3 looks bad.

[markb]

Yea it's pretty bad but don't worry, that's not from #97.

[edwardmorris]

Mark, if you'd like new stock looking repros, Joe/FrankenFrankenStuff makes them. I bought a kit for my K2 stocker. I call them Franken Finserts 

[Restoration Fan]

Mark, if you'd like new stock looking repros, Joe/FrankenFrankenStuff makes them. I bought a kit for my K2 stocker. I call them Franken Finserts 

Same here.  Very reasonable pricing and really nice workmanship.  Good guy to deal with as well.

[markb]

Nice tip!  I had to call many shops and ask what color they had so I could get the correct ones.  Back then I had to pay between $3 to $4 each. 
How much for the kit?  I only have a few more so I will definitely need some for my other engines.  Thanks for sharing.

[edwardmorris]

Sure thing, here is his FS thread. IIRC these aren't stocked, just made to order, so best to PM him for pricing and availability. I bought me enough for my two bikes a while back and don't remember....

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=74022.0

[markb]

I decided that my other heads were correct so I installed my inserts that way.  Here’s a shot of the back.


Here’s a shot of the front.  I like it.


Here’s the engine pretty much done.  I’ve decided I’m just going to put in on a rotating pedestal to display it in my living room with colored lights shining on it.    Just kidding of course but the CB750 engine is sure a work of art.


Here’s another angle.  There are a couple of minor things to do – cam chain tensioner, polish the oil gallery plug, etc. – but I can do that after the engine is in the frame.

[markb]

I have a C-hook that I sometimes use to install the engine but I decided to lay the engine on its side and lower the frame onto it.  I‘ll have to get these blankets home and get the bed made before my wife notices they’re missing.     


I use pipe insulating foam tubes to protect the frame during installation.  I should have taken pictures but I used a fork truck to pick up the frame and position it over the engine.  The engine was on a scissors table so I just gradually lifted the engine and it went in really nice.  The only problem I had was getting the rear, lower mount to go between the frame mounts.  There must have been just enough paint to make it really snug.  I finally wrestled it to the point where I used increasingly bigger screwdrivers in the mounting holes to coax it into alignment.


There it is in the frame.  That’s the first time they’ve been together in a little over 4 years.  It brought a tear to my eye.  I’ve got the two lower bolts in so it’s not going anywhere.  I still need to strap it down and install the motor mount brackets after I dig them out of storage.  They’re all painted and ready to go.  I feel good.  This is a major milestone. 

[MoMo]

Looking good, Mark!...Larry

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Very nice!

[Stev-o]

Looks great

[Greggo]

Excellent work Mark!  Looks like you have a great place to do it all too.

[kap384@telus.net]

A thing of beauty!

[NobleHops]

Great milestone indeed!

[myhondas]

Besides doing a fantastic job on the restoration.....I have to also say that I am entirely impressed and jealous of the  size, layout and equipment in your shop. 

[markb]

I'm lucky that my company has plenty of equipment and space where I can work on the bike after hours. 

Thank you guys for all your support.  Hard to believe that this is what it used to look like. 

[knottedknickers]

Yep, the workspace definitely looks bigger. Looks like the same 2x4s, though. 

[markb]

I got the engine mounts torqued down.  I love those original “Big 8” hex head bolts.  Here’s the right front bracket…


…and the rear bracket…


…and the left side front bolt.


I don’t mean to be too anal here but in this case I call them bolts instead of screws.  An old mechanic, a long time ago, taught me that they’re called bolts when used with a nut and screws when they go into a tapped hole.  Of course you guys all know that.   

[calj737]

They're bolts because you use a wrench to install and not a screwdriver (regardless of nuts)