Topic: static timing with a multimeter?

[orkid1989]

i was wondering if i could static time my 71 cb750 with a volt meter instead of a test light? if so would i just hook up the positive to the blue/yellow wire then the negative to the frame (ground)? the reason why i am asking is because i have a multi meter but not a test light. plus it sounds like a multimeter would be more accurate.

[markb]

I've done it.  It worked OK.  The meter just isn't as responsive as the light would be so you have to adjust slow.
Mark

[orkid1989]

well in tried it a few minutes ago and it stayed at 10.7v no matter how much i adjusted it. doesnt sound right to me.

[MoMo]

Use it as an ohmeter with one lead on ground and the other on the point post where the wire is attached.  It is more responsive than using the voltmeter function.  Should get you in the ballpark if you do not have a timing light. Good luck, Larry

[Legin]

I have done it both ways and then checked with a strobe and the bulb is the way to go. All i did was solder two wires to an indicator bulb and bingo sorted, nothing special

[orkid1989]

Use it as an ohmeter with one lead on ground and the other on the point post where the wire is attached.  It is more responsive than using the voltmeter function.  Should get you in the ballpark if you do not have a timing light. Good luck, Larry

ok well if i use it in the ohm setting what should it read? i just used the volt one because they said use a 12 volt lite

[markb]

Sorry, I assumed you were going to use it as an ohmeter too.  But there should not be any power on there.  Your meter should go from zero to infinite when the points break.
Mark

[dave500]

if it has a diode function with a chirp or beep sound use that.

[orkid1989]

unfortunately it was a cheap one so no chirp function otherwise i would definitely would have tried that first.

[ksmith0034]

YES!  I just did EXACTLY what you described last week.  It worked.  All you are looking for is a change in voltage (don't look at the 10ths).  Then I tightened everything down and pushed the start button... she roared to life after 36 years of slumber!!!

i was wondering if i could static time my 71 cb750 with a volt meter instead of a test light? if so would i just hook up the positive to the blue/yellow wire then the negative to the frame (ground)? the reason why i am asking is because i have a multi meter but not a test light. plus it sounds like a multimeter would be more accurate.

[orkid1989]

YES!  I just did EXACTLY what you described last week.  It worked.  All you are looking for is a change in voltage (don't look at the 10ths).  Then I tightened everything down and pushed the start button... she roared to life after 36 years of slumber!!!

i was wondering if i could static time my 71 cb750 with a volt meter instead of a test light? if so would i just hook up the positive to the blue/yellow wire then the negative to the frame (ground)? the reason why i am asking is because i have a multi meter but not a test light. plus it sounds like a multimeter would be more accurate.

o wow you did? well any chance you can give me a step by step?

[Frostyboy]

well in tried it a few minutes ago and it stayed at 10.7v no matter how much i adjusted it. doesnt sound right to me.

If the voltage was at the points all the time it means the points are already open. If you were using a test light it would be on all the time too. Are you sure the point gap is correct?

[Spanner 1]

Yep, if the voltage never changed with the crank turned thru' 360 deg. then the points are not closing, or are closing but dirty. +1 on the gap, are the points gapped to 12 thou. at the top of the cam 'bump' ?

[ksmith0034]

oops, my bad.  Are you talking points?  I just static timed my Dyna.

[mystic_1]

Sorry, I assumed you were going to use it as an ohmeter too.  But there should not be any power on there.  Your meter should go from zero to infinite when the points break.
Mark

To expand on this,

No matter what method you use, set the points gap as per the procedure in the manual first.  If that's not right, your timing never will be either.


Positive meter lead = blue wire or yellow wire
Negative meter lead = ground

When using an ohmmeter, do the test with the ignition OFF.  When the points are closed, there will be little to no resistance.  When they open there will be infinite resistance.

When using a voltmeter, do the test with the ignition ON.  When the points are closed, there will be no voltage indicated*.  When they open, you should see approximately 12v (battery voltage).

When you use a test light, do the test with the ignition ON.  When the points are closed, the bulb will be off.  When they open, the bulb will be lit.

mystic_1



* Your voltmeter shows the "difference in electrical potential" between the test points.  When the ignition is on, current is wanting to flow from the battery, through the coils, and down to the points.  When the points are open, current cannot flow so there's a difference in voltage potential between the test points.  When the points close, the circuit completes and your test points are essentially connected to each other.  There's still 12v flowing through the circuit, but since the electrical potential is the same at both test points (+12v) the meter reads zero.  This same principle explains the behavior of the bulb in the test light configuration.

[orkid1989]

Sorry, I assumed you were going to use it as an ohmeter too.  But there should not be any power on there.  Your meter should go from zero to infinite when the points break.
Mark

To expand on this,

No matter what method you use, set the points gap as per the procedure in the manual first.  If that's not right, your timing never will be either.


Positive meter lead = blue wire or yellow wire
Negative meter lead = ground

When using an ohmmeter, do the test with the ignition OFF.  When the points are closed, there will be little to no resistance.  When they open there will be infinite resistance.

When using a voltmeter, do the test with the ignition ON.  When the points are closed, there will be no voltage indicated*.  When they open, you should see approximately 12v (battery voltage).

When you use a test light, do the test with the ignition ON.  When the points are closed, the bulb will be off.  When they open, the bulb will be lit.

mystic_1



* Your voltmeter shows the "difference in electrical potential" between the test points.  When the ignition is on, current is wanting to flow from the battery, through the coils, and down to the points.  When the points are open, current cannot flow so there's a difference in voltage potential between the test points.  When the points close, the circuit completes and your test points are essentially connected to each other.  There's still 12v flowing through the circuit, but since the electrical potential is the same at both test points (+12v) the meter reads zero.  This same principle explains the behavior of the bulb in the test light configuration.

o ok i set the points to .013 gap (didnt have a .012) i was wondering though where exactly am i supposed to check the points at the T mark or the F mark and where would i do the timing? Also i am assuming that when you say "ground" you mean ground the wire like connecting it to the engine or something?

[MoMo]

Points should begin to open at the f mark, set the gap at the little post where the spring attaches (right past the t mark) and yes the negative goes to the engine block or frame-any ground. Gap should be 12 to 16 thousandths, 13 or 14 is a good starting place, Larry

[Spanner 1]

Wait now... Timing 101 needed. ( Have you a manual for your bike ??)... first task is to set the gap for points 1+4 by loosening the single points screw and turning the crankshaft ( jab the kickstarter with your left hand while looking at the points ... DONT put a wrench on the point cam nut to turn the crank unless the plugs are removed, better is just don't do it ! ). When the lobe on the cam is at it's highest against the point rubbing block, this is where you set the point gap at 14 thousands-of-an-inch. Tighten screw, re-check gap.... Repeat for point 2+3, same procedure.... Now with your test light or meter connected ( see many posts above ! ), turn the crank to the 'F'mark '1-4', slide the 1-4 point plate up or down until the points just open as shown by your meter/ test light... tighten plate screws. Done for 1+4. Repeat task for 2+3 points, i.e. gap first then time at the 'F' mark '2+3'.... good luck.
Side Note;   I never ceased to be amazed at the number of SOHC owners who don't have a basic understanding of how to time their bikes.... it's very well explained in the Honda manual or the Clymer manual or the Haynes manual with pictures.... I guess what I'm saying is if you ask how to time a bike , then you don't have a manual or haven't bothered to read it... both no-no's if you want to have a running SOHC.. IMO.

[orkid1989]

well i have 2 manuals but neither are specific on how to use a multimeter and i have read the manuals but i like to make sure i do it right instead of messing it all up

[Duke McDukiedook]

Dude, get a damn light, they are about 15 bucks at harbor freight or sears, you are guaranteed to use it again and you will want to use it to check timing advance.

[Gordon]

Dude, get a damn light, they are about 15 bucks at harbor freight or sears, you are guaranteed to use it again and you will want to use it to check timing advance.

+1

[tango911]

$30 for a decent one at any local auto parts store.


i did make a static one out of a spare turn signal tho

it is nice to do a static adjustment for starters.

[TwoTired]

Made this from parts on hand in the junk drawer.

[tango911]

Made this from parts on hand in the junk drawer.

perfect,  alot lighter than my turn signal one

[orkid1989]

cool idea with the turn signal and bulb timing lights. i finally got it to work. my problem was the gap was off. and the reason why i am static timing it is because it wasn't running at that time. i basically just had to hook up the multimeter and and set it to ohms and it read about 5ohms when open on and about .06 when closed. it was way off on timing. now it runs like a champ.

[dave500]

set it with a strobe light and itll run like more of a champion.

[Sixgunsrattlesnake]

noted

[lucky]

i was wondering if i could static time my 71 cb750 with a volt meter instead of a test light? if so would i just hook up the positive to the blue/yellow wire then the negative to the frame (ground)? the reason why i am asking is because i have a multi meter but not a test light. plus it sounds like a multimeter would be more accurate.

Yes.