Topic: Auto Chain Oiler

[amattel]

For all following this thread, a company called Metrics Unlimited offers an M14x1.25 die. You could probably custom make a new plug bolt by getting an M14x1.5 bolt and running the die over the threads. Sure, in some areas the threads will look all crossed as the die cuts through the existing threads, but since the pitches are so close, this should be minimal and this bolt only acts as a plug, and doesn't really retain any kind of significant load.

Actually you can buy an m14 bolt of any thread that has the top portion of the bolt unthreaded.  cut off the threaded portion, thread whats left with the die and WHAALAA!

Adam

[Bob Wessner]

Actually you can buy an m14 bolt of any thread that has the top portion of the bolt unthreaded.  cut off the threaded portion, thread whats left with the die and WHAALAA!

Will the unthreaded portion likely be long enough to reach and cover the hole?

[volthause]

Actually you can buy an m14 bolt of any thread that has the top portion of the bolt unthreaded.  cut off the threaded portion, thread whats left with the die and WHAALAA!

Will the unthreaded portion likely be long enough to reach and cover the hole?

According to Machinery's Handbook, for M14 x 2 in a metric hex bolt it breaks down like this:

200mm and greater overall length - 53mm basic thread length = unthreaded length
125mm to 200mm OAL - 40mm basic thread length = unthreaded length
125mm and less OAL - 34mm basic thread length = unthreaded length


I forsee a problem getting the bolt to screw all the way in, however, due to the underhead fillet on hex head bolts. You won't be able to run the thread all the way to the bottom of the head.

[amattel]

Actually you can buy an m14 bolt of any thread that has the top portion of the bolt unthreaded. cut off the threaded portion, thread whats left with the die and WHAALAA!

Will the unthreaded portion likely be long enough to reach and cover the hole?

According to Machinery's Handbook, for M14 x 2 in a metric hex bolt it breaks down like this:

200mm and greater overall length - 53mm basic thread length = unthreaded length
125mm to 200mm OAL - 40mm basic thread length = unthreaded length
125mm and less OAL - 34mm basic thread length = unthreaded length


I forsee a problem getting the bolt to screw all the way in, however, due to the underhead fillet on hex head bolts. You won't be able to run the thread all the way to the bottom of the head.

Perhaps a couple washers could make of the difference.  I have seen m14 bolts at ace hardware with a good 1 1/2 inches of unthreaded section.

Adam

[Bob Wessner]

Gee, I guess I never thought this question would generate so much discussion.  Thanks all for the input though.

[volthause]

Yeah, a couple of washers would be advisable.

As far as length, you could use a 60mm length, basic thread length of 34mm, which leaves you with 26mm of unthreaded bolt. If you need 14.5mm length that should do fine.

[bwaller]

I didn't have any luck with my machinist friend, he can't cut metric thread on his lathe and doesn't even have the 14x1.25mm tap. On a more modern lathe can this not be done?

Another possible option is to cut a rear foopeg bolt to length. The OD is slightly large so would need to be machined slightly before it could be threaded. Here's a pic of the inside of the shaft IF you can see it clearly enough. There is only one extra thread past the inside edge of the hole so leave the end of the bolt as square as possible. I would still fill the hole with some silicone gasket material as well.

I double-checked the measurement and it is 14.84mm deep from the end of the shaft to the inside thread edge plus the width of whatever sealing washer you use. There is a little over 2mm before the thread starts in the shaft.

Well Bob the plot thickens, keep us informed!

[bwaller]

Like I said here's a pic..... jumped the gun

[Bob Wessner]

Great pics, thanks! Now I see more clearly what I'm trying to deal with. Thanks again.

[bwaller]

The simplest approach might be to try filling the hole with JB Weld or equivalent and reinstalling your original plug. Even if the stuff failed & dropped into the shaft it can't go anywhere. If you need to go to the more expensive "Plan B" you've got options!

[Bob Wessner]

This one sort of leaves the door open to several Rube Goldberg gone wild tricks I guess. There is the one earlier about some sort of rubber plug, I was thinking it may be possible to thread the hole itself to take some sort of threaded plug. Thanks again for taking the time to take the pictures.

[techy5025]

Bob,

The problem with threading the hole is the assessability for the tap.  If you can get a
piece of rubber tightly wedged in the hole, the thickness of the wall is enough to hold
it.  Wish I could remember what I used....but it will be the first thing I do with the new
sandcast.

Ah.....just remembered.....  a section of an o-ring that I widdlled the end to a taper to
make it easy to start.  Most o-rings will have no problem with oil and are readily
available.

Good Luck,

Jim

[Bob Wessner]

Ah.....just remembered.....  a section of an o-ring that I widdlled the end to a taper to
make it easy to start.  Most o-rings will have no problem with oil and are readily available.

Great, glad you remembered  , been scratching my head thinking what might I use? 

[Jonesy]

Bob-

If you decide to use an O-ring, try to get one made from Viton. They will resist pretty much any oil or chemical.

[Bob Wessner]

Thanks Dan, Viton, I will remember that.

[amattel]

I found a m14 x 1.25 die in a used tool shop so I am gonna play with my idea of creating a bolt from the non threaded part at the top of a m14 bolt.  I haven't found a holder for it yet so I will try it with a 1 7/16 socket with a t handle driver.

I will let y'all know if it works for a direct replacement for the oiler as a plug bolt.

[nickjtc]

And predictable Nick will now jump in with the usual response. Once you've sorted out the sealing of the oiler, fit a Scottoiler for trouble-free chain maintenance....!!

I should be collecting commission.

[VTCBike750]

What about coating the little rubber plug at the end with Hondabond?

[Harsh]

What about coating the little rubber plug at the end with Hondabond?

That is exactly my plan.  I have the adjustment plus assembly put together and I am going to squirt some Hondabond into the hole.  I see no reason why that wouldn't seal it up.

[bert96]

Joker machine's sell a plug...

http://www.jokermachine.com/itemcafe2004.asp?ItemID=784&CategoryID=85&Placeholder=


Bert

[Old Scrambler]

I thought this topic died 6-years ago...........I put a small amount of JB-Weld on a popsicle stick and gently squished it into the small hole. I inserted the adjuster screw to set the threads and quickly removed it. Next day I inserted the screw and have not had a drop of oil leak for more than 30 years and 30,000 miles. I clean my o-ring chain with WD-40 when the chain is hot and let it drip-dry. No oil needed.   

[Brantley]

Bob, you didn't mention what bike this is for, but I'm guessing a K0? Seems the non-adjustable oiler was only used to engine #1026144. By chance, I was digging around in a parts box the other day and saw the one I replaced, so I just measured it. First off it looks to be 12mm (11.87), not 14 which is why you can't drop in a later oiler. #15 in the drawing you provided is a flat, rubber washer. I can't recall, but the #4 hole in Jonesy's drawing may not even be drilled in the shaft. Perhaps replacing that'll work? My solution was to find part #23052-300-305 which, I guess, was Honda's retrofit adjustable oiler for the earlier shafts.

[VTCBike750]

I thought this topic died 6-years ago...........   

Yeah I have a habit of reviving old threads 

[MCRider]

The best way is to pull the engine, flip it over, take off the bottom case. Remove the little plate that directs oil into the center of the drive shaft, reassemble and ride.