Author Topic: Paddy - '78 CB750 - Version 3.0 Coming Soon! (Read 84219 times)

MCRider · « **Reply #300 on:** April 05, 2012, 05:22:27 pm »

Quote from: Old75_ratafe on April 05, 2012, 04:20:10 pm

Like I said there is a reason hotrod shops hot tank engines. Guess we all learned a lesson (unfortunately the hard way) from you. Good luck on the rebuild. I would make the first shop pay for the resurfacing personally.

When shopping around for cleaning of my crankases, I was referred to Redi Strip Indy. They turned me down said they wouldn't put alumminum crankcases in their soup.

HotRod engines mostly cast iron? Maybe thats the/a difference?

theofam · « **Reply #301 on:** April 05, 2012, 08:46:13 pm »

Oldratafe, mcrider is correct. The chem dip at the auto shops will melt an aluminum block like ours. I checked at Blue Oval today - no go.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #302 on:** April 06, 2012, 03:33:55 am »

There are chemical dips for cast iron blocks and chemical dips for aluminum cases. The blasters that I use have a "Hot Tank" for aluminum cases, but I haven't had a set of cases hot tanked, because they told me that while it will remove old paint and grease, it won't remove corrosion. Cheers, Terry.

MCRider · « **Reply #303 on:** April 06, 2012, 05:11:28 am »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on April 06, 2012, 03:33:55 am

There are chemical dips for cast iron blocks and chemical dips for aluminum cases. The blasters that I use have a "Hot Tank" for aluminum cases, but I haven't had a set of cases hot tanked, because they told me that while it will remove old paint and grease, it won't remove corrosion. Cheers, Terry.

I thought something like that might be the case. The Redi Strip plant i went to was like the premier place in Indy for such work. I figured if they didn't want to do it, the search would be difficuult. But there has to be a liquid strip for aluminum somewhere in Indy.

Iin the meantime, media blasting kept surfacing as the best way to get ALL the crap, corrosion, eczema, etc off the cases, but cleanup became a priority. The blaster i used was also a premier outlet, but no liquid stripping services.

http://www.idsblast.com/jobshop.html

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #304 on:** April 06, 2012, 03:36:39 pm »

Yep, I'm with you Ron, media blasting is the best option for making our engines look like new, and as long as people are aware that they will have to spend some quality time thoroughly cleaning every nook and cranny prior to re-assembling their engines, they'll be fine. I've done 4 or 5 engines like this with no issues whatsoever, it's like anything else, if you put the time in with good preparation, you'll get a good result. Cheers, Terry.

KRONUS0100 · « **Reply #305 on:** April 06, 2012, 03:46:59 pm »

ETE WHOLESALE on Capital Ave in INDY..........aka Edwards Transmission. I used to work there. they have a hot tank parts washer that they use to clean transmission cases..which are aluminum. Call and ask for BOB.

Old75_ratafe · « **Reply #306 on:** April 06, 2012, 06:29:01 pm »

Yep good point most engines are iron so that probably does make a big difference. But a lot of high performance engines like those found it Vetts, cobras etc. are aluminum. Also why not leave the cases together and plug the few holes with rubber corks or expanding freeze plugs seals and then just have the whole thing blasted. I would think that would make sure 99% of the media stays out.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #307 on:** April 07, 2012, 02:33:17 am »

You'll never be able to plug every orifice, oilway, threaded hole etc mate, it's just impossible. better to just blast the cases and throroughly clean them afterwards. Cheers, Terry.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #308 on:** April 07, 2012, 10:17:27 am »

"You'll never be able to plug every orifice"

This is THE man that knows! trust him

MCRider · « **Reply #309 on:** April 07, 2012, 11:02:28 am »

Quote from: KRONUS0100 on April 06, 2012, 03:46:59 pm

ETE WHOLESALE on Capital Ave in INDY..........aka Edwards Transmission. I used to work there. they have a hot tank parts washer that they use to clean transmission cases..which are aluminum. Call and ask for BOB.

That's good to know. Thanks, not far from me. (sb Capitol Ave)

Old75_ratafe · « **Reply #310 on:** April 07, 2012, 11:22:09 pm »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on April 07, 2012, 02:33:17 am

You'll never be able to plug every orifice, oilway, threaded hole etc mate, it's just impossible. better to just blast the cases and throroughly clean them afterwards. Cheers, Terry.

That's what she said

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #311 on:** April 08, 2012, 03:01:07 am »

I think JFK would beg to differ............

Old75_ratafe · « **Reply #312 on:** April 08, 2012, 11:28:03 pm »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on April 08, 2012, 03:01:07 am

I think JFK would beg to differ............

Touche

theofam · « **Reply #313 on:** April 10, 2012, 04:44:51 pm »

I picked the kids up today. They enjoyed having the top down on the Jeep.

Tomorrow is clean up time! I bought a metric tap & die set to chase all the threads. I'm thinking I might hit the power wash first to blow the majority of the plastic media out/off.

If that happens tomorrow, I should be able to paint Thu or Fri.

I also dropped by Blue Oval Performance to have Rob look at my pistons. He thinks they look great, especially given the heat cycle the engine experienced.

Progress, fellas!

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #314 on:** April 10, 2012, 08:36:35 pm »

Your tragedy stuck with me as I peered inside my oil tank yesterday. Thanks to you but sorry for you. I flushed out a fn sand dune today. Totally amazed. I'll be posting something on "What did you do to your bike today" in a little while!

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #315 on:** April 11, 2012, 05:31:09 am »

You were lucky Jerry, all that good work would have been for nought if you'd left the grit in your tank. I prefer blasting to any other method of baked on crud and paint removal, but if not thoroughly cleaned, it will destroy your engine before your very eyes...........

MRieck · « **Reply #316 on:** April 11, 2012, 07:08:28 am »

Put bolts in all the threaded holes prior to blasting. Bead blasting 101

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #317 on:** April 11, 2012, 08:04:44 am »

Or tape at the least. Moral: always check someone else's work

theofam · « **Reply #318 on:** April 11, 2012, 03:25:22 pm »

Jerry, glad my screw up could help somebody - especially a good Colorado dude like yourself!

MRieck, DOH! Why didn't I think of that?! On second thought, don't answer that.

I ordered main bearings, cam chain, points cover (the current one - although new - already has a dent in it from tipping the motor on its side), and oil filters. Still waiting on my guy to take apart the head to see what I need to order, if anything, in addition to the bent valve.

I didn't get anything else done. My dad called to see if I wanted to grab breakfast, so we ran our other bikes down to a cool joint and I got the oil changed on it. Other than that, it's been a day of honey-dos.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #319 on:** April 11, 2012, 07:12:18 pm »

You know what we call this??

A LEARNING EXPERIENCE

MRieck · « **Reply #320 on:** April 12, 2012, 04:18:28 pm »

Quote from: theofam on April 11, 2012, 03:25:22 pm

Jerry, glad my screw up could help somebody - especially a good Colorado dude like yourself!

MRieck, DOH! Why didn't I think of that?! On second thought, don't answer that.

I ordered main bearings, cam chain, points cover (the current one - although new - already has a dent in it from tipping the motor on its side), and oil filters. Still waiting on my guy to take apart the head to see what I need to order, if anything, in addition to the bent valve.

I didn't get anything else done. My dad called to see if I wanted to grab breakfast, so we ran our other bikes down to a cool joint and I got the oil changed on it. Other than that, it's been a day of honey-dos.

As Jerry said...there is a learning curve.

At least you get good feedback here which really steepens the curve.

Stev-o · « **Reply #321 on:** May 12, 2012, 05:32:23 am »

Theo.....update? You out here?!

behiggie · « **Reply #322 on:** May 27, 2012, 10:38:25 pm »

Hi
First off I don't have a 750 and I have not stayed at a holiday inn but here goes.
When you get it back together go to the hardware store and buy a pump up sprayer like for weed killer. Cut off the wand and adapt to fit the inlet oil line from the oil tank. Fill the sprayer with oil and use it to push oil through the engine till it comes out the line that goes back to the oil tank then with the engine properly pre oiled you can pull valve caps or whatever you want to make sure oil has been properly distributed. This also eliminates the low pressure that can happen during initial start up as the oil passages fill. Ben

theofam · « **Reply #323 on:** May 28, 2012, 05:22:47 pm »

Behiggie, that's a cool way to prime the engine with oil!

Stev-O, sorry I haven't checked in for awhile. I'm learning machine shops are the longest part of a rebuild process. They ordered exhaust guides from Kibblewhite over a month ago, and I still don't have the head.

I have repainted and reassembled the lower end with new main bearings and cam chain. The oil pump is rebuilt with new o-rings - glad I did it, too, as the oil leak stopper valve was stuck open. I just need to install the pistons, points, paint the head, once back in my posession, and reassemble.

I'm hoping to have Paddy running in June. We'll see!

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #324 on:** May 28, 2012, 10:13:56 pm »

Maybe we can take them out together!

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Author Topic: Paddy - '78 CB750 - Version 3.0 Coming Soon! (Read 84219 times)