Topic: '76 CB550: MC/brake line help

[Nortstudio]

Hey folks,

Got a good start today on swapping my standard bars for drag bars.  I ran into the problem most people do, which is that everything is now super tight because of the lost throw.  Got all cables run pretty well Though (clutch tweak tomorrow should do it). 

My only issue is that the brake line between the master cylinder (and banjo bolt?) to the first attachment at center of forks is curved pretty good.  Not kinked, but probably not safe (photo below).  Also, can anyone tell what type of MC this is from the bad photo?  It was on there when I got it, and I don't see any model markings. 

I am wondering whether it is possible to remove the line from the banjo bolt???  If so, I could trim it to the right size.  I am planning on upgrading to steel braided lines in the future, but these lines are basically brand new (only good thing on the bike from the PO!)

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Kong]

You can't remove the flex hose from the stock banjo, sorry about that.  However when the time comes to get your braided hose you can get a banjo with a different exit angle.  I can't tell real well from the picture but it looks like your current exit is 90-degrees, but if you put a 120-degree banjo on there it would point more toward the bike's centerline and allow you to use a shorter line without any kink in it.

[Nortstudio]

Thanks kong.  It is 90-degree. 

Any idea if this brake line will work as is?  Ideally, I will order the steel braided from the guy on this forum, but in the mean time....

[Kong]

I dunno, it looks like a pretty nasty kink.  Is there anything you can do to temporarly reroute it or maybe unbolt the switch/junction and allow it to float until you can get a better fitting line?

[Nortstudio]

Which switch are you talking about?  The MC itself?  Or the righthand kill switch housing??? Sorry, very new to all this.

I think I can remove the banjo bolt and reroute it some, at a better angle.

Unfortunately, I made the noob mistake of not removing the brake fluid before I did the swap, and was not able to do it after the sun went down.

Thanks for the responses.

[Kong]

If you follow that hose down to the lower tripple tree it should connect to an aluminum device that has a second hose coming from it that leads to the brake itself and also two prongs that have wires attached to them.  That little junction block is your brake light switch, its pressure activated.  It should be bolted to the lower tree and what I meant was that maybe if you unbolt it and let it float free it might allow some of the strain to come out of that upper hose.  Might work, might not.

[Nortstudio]

Just went down and looked.  Totally makes sense. 

Since I need to do the brake job anyway, I'll try the reroute after i clear the system and can remove the banjo bolt from the MC.  I think i can run it inside of the forks, without hanging up anything while the bars turn.  Worst case, I'll try your "floating" trick until I get new, properly fitting cables.

Really appreciate your help!

[Nortstudio]

**EDIT**. Obviously it must come off, or how would the line be changed.  Sorry, posting before thinking never good!

If I drain the brake system, does the banjo come out of the MC?  Or do I need to remove it for rerouting from the junction?

Thanks.  Just trying to be prepared (and curse and kick as little as possible)

[Duanob]

"I am wondering whether it is possible to remove the line from the banjo bolt???  If so, I could trim it to the right size." No you can't unless you have a special brakeline crimping tool. That would be dangerous trying to do it yourself.

Nortstudio so what are your palns for the bike? If you plan on a restoration, the first thing I would do is get a stock MC, that might cure what ails the brake line. The stock brake line should be 13" and then figure what you need from there for the new bars. The SS lines come in stock and clubman lengths. You may need the clubman length line.

BTW I wouldn't let the brake switch dangle loose. I believe it needs to be grounded for the brake light to work. At the very least if it got caught down there you might not be able to turn as far as you need that could be disasterous.  

[Nortstudio]

I'm definitely not planning on a full resto on this thing. I'm gettibg it safe, and up to speed, and really using it to learn to wrench the bike. I have thought about a OEM MC, but if I can get this thing to work, that much less $.

I emailed the member from SS cables, and he said he could make the length appropriate when/if I swap out the cables. I know they are superior, but the ones on the bike are basically new. So I figure if the rerouting works, I'll stick with that until I have spare cash.

My main goal is to learn, make it safe, and hopefully, have fun!  So far it's been working out that way, thanks to a ton of help from this forum.

[Joules]

I have the opposite problem with my CB 550F SS where I have taken off a handlebar riser kit and now I am left with an excess of brake line. There is too much to comfortably 'squash' behind the headlight.

Do you know how long the original brake line is for the short handle bar line?

I have found Z1 Enterprises (http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=CB550F-1976-WB1) that does reasonable priced brake lines. You can mix'n match Banjos with the line.

I have bought some other parts from them and they are reliable. I am not sure about the brake lines, I am still looking for the best option, but not sure how long the line should be.

[Nortstudio]

I have too much line also.  Because of the handlebars being closer to the brake junction itself, my line is too long.  The guy on the forum who sells them seemed to make them "to order" or at least close.  He mentioned that I should remind him of the type of bars I was using - and then he would deliver me lines that were appropriate.

I have been pretty set on using him, but I have definitely have seen other shops with the lines, and he seems to be the most reasonably priced.  Maybe you could measure the length you need and let him know.  He could probably help you out.

[NickC]

Can you route it up and between the gauges?

[Nortstudio]

I think the key is to route is any way that doesn't leave a kink or too hard of a turn. Obviously straight shot is best - and getting it as close as possible to that is next best.

Ultimately, I have not heard one person complain about the benefits of steel lines, so if they can also come better suited for the new length of my/your bike, it's a no brainer. Just waiting on the next free cash...

[Billy Bolt]

I didn't read through all of these replys, so maybe someone already answered your questions. I've put drag bars on quite a few cb's and I replace the stock MC with one from a dirt bike. You can usually find a MC from an old CR on eBay for around 35 - 40 bucks. Lose the pressure switch and run a continious braided line. I don't have any really good pics, but could take some if you want?

-Scott

www.thetarantulas.net

[Nortstudio]

I'd love to see a photo if you have one, and it's not a pain in the ass.  I know I read a thread a while back about the correct type MC for the bike, because of different pressure etc.  If you know this works, I would think about trying it out.

Thanks

[Duanob]

If you take the pressure switch out you won't have a brake light for the front brakes. Probably not legal in NYC or any other big city for that matter.

[Nortstudio]

 Yeah. Didn't catch that in the last post. Don't want to lose the brake light from the front handle.

Thanks though. No photos needed.