When my 77 CB400F had a faulty starter switch, the bike would start but the headlight wouldn't light. Because the starter button would actually stick in the depressed "start" position, I would have to pull it back out to prevent the starter from running even though I quit pushing it.
I took the button apart to see what was the matter only to have a million little pieces in my hand because the internal plastic housing that held the starter button guts was totally disintegrated. Upon a closer inspection, I figured out why the headlight wouldn't light.
Because the power for the headlight runs thought the starter switch, and because the starter switch was FUBAR, I couldn't get the headlight to light so I replaced the switch with a "Made in China" Honda original (NOT) starter switch.
Here is how it's made to work as best as I can describe it. There are two contact points separated by a "bridge" that the starter switch rocks on. Think of a school yard teeter tooter... I believe the "bridge" is a ground which the "teeter tooter" starter switch uses to complete the circut. When the starter button is at rest, it completes the headlight circut until you push the button which interupts the circut to provide full power to the starting circut. Assuming the bike starts, releasing the button restores power to the headlight.
In short, I believe your starter switch has had the same fate as mine; it has disintegrated to a point where your switch is FUBAR.
I have an owners manual wiring diagram I can email to you that is 100% accurate for your 400! Just let me know!
I hope this help!