Author Topic: Too-Tired points procedure  (Read 1412 times)

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Offline Nortstudio

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Too-Tired points procedure
« on: November 14, 2010, 11:37:21 AM »
1976 CB550K:

I redoing my timing, and started my points/timing adjustment.  I got 1/4 timing great, and then with 2/3 timing, I have run out of room moving the 2/3 plate clockwise with my adjustment.

I read TT's post in the FAQ about this, but I'm not sure exactly where I a supposed to place the feeler to stop the plate from moving radially. 

He says: ..."insert in the gap between mount post and large breaker plate."  What mount post are we talking about here?  Is this the place where the lower right screw goes into the casing?  Behind the plate?

  I haven't taken off the points yet, not sure if that would make it more obvious, but I'm fearful of taking them off before I have more info.

If any of you have tried this, or TT sees this, any clarification is much appreciated.

Thanks   
1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

“Success is dependent on effort.”
~Sophocles

Offline Kevin400F

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2010, 11:55:54 AM »
Often, the sympton you describe can be remedied by changing the point gap, but I've also included a picture below with my guess as to what Lloyd is referring to.

Kevin

Offline Nortstudio

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2010, 12:32:20 PM »
Thanks kevin. My 1/4 is spot on!  My 2/3 is off by at least the distance between the T and F tick marks, but to the right (firing early I believe).

I already opened the gap to be .016 which is already at the widest of the prescribed gap. Would you suggest going wider than that?

Somewhere else Lloyd had mentioned adjusting gaps to be closer to the smallest gap if older - and since I inherited these points, I have been trying to keep it to the smaller gap at .012

Appreciate your help.

Scott
1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

“Success is dependent on effort.”
~Sophocles

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2010, 12:53:32 PM »
With the points loose or removed from the plate, you may find that the capture posts in the engine allow the plate to move about laterally, instead of just turn around the axis of the cam.  A shim keeps the plate from moving laterally, so it's only movement capability is around the axis of the cam.  The shim does NOT go behind the plate.
The shim goes between plate and 1 of the posts.  For mine, it was the lower right post.  But, you have to find the one that allows both points to align within their adjustment range. ...Could take three tries.
With the plate loose for adjustment, the points springs push the main plate sideways.  I had one that you could see moving around with the engine running as the points would take turns pushing the plate sideways.  The shim puts a stop to that.

The point gap also determines the dwell or the "coil power draw" time.  Used points without contact reconditioning, I usually set to .014 or less as the gap gets larger with use.

Not that rubbing block wear can also affect the timing adjustment range, as a worn block affects the geometry.  There is supposed to be grease between cam and rubbing block.

Cheers,

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Kevin400F

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2010, 01:01:51 PM »
+1 on Lloyd's response.

If you need to stick with this particular set of points, you help the timing of the 2-3 point set by playing with the gap on the 1-4 set (while keeping it in the 0.012"-0.016" range)?

If you just can't get there from here using these particular points, keeping the gaps between 0.012" and 0.016", you could always hog out the adjustment slots a little with a Dremel.

Offline Nortstudio

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2010, 01:09:41 PM »
Not to be overly annoying here folks, but does the photo above show where the shim is going?  If so, that makes sense to me, because I can see uneven gaps in those locations near each of my 3 main plate screws.

I'm getting a bit confused if the photo is wrong, because I do not see a location to put a shim anywhere else.

Does the Dremel trick work without damaging the plate in any way (other than if I botch it!)?  If not, I'm game for that too if the shim doesn't work - or if I end up never findig the location.

Thanks for all your help. I'm close...I can feel(er) it!!!



1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

“Success is dependent on effort.”
~Sophocles

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2010, 01:14:44 PM »
The photo shows one out of a possible three places to insert a temporary shim.
The photo show no gap to shim, but many plates do have a gap in one of those three places.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Nortstudio

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2010, 01:18:04 PM »
Got it. Thanks TT! 

Ran out of battery and daylight, so I'm going to commence bashing my head with a hammer until I can get this right. Let's hope it's soon!!! :)

BTW. What type of damage (if any) does this offset 2/3 introduce while riding?

Thanks
1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

“Success is dependent on effort.”
~Sophocles

Offline TwoTired

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2010, 09:44:14 PM »
BTW. What type of damage (if any) does this offset 2/3 introduce while riding?

These days, anything caused by human imperfection damages the environment.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline dave500

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2010, 01:29:17 AM »
i slipped some stainless shim in then folded it down and trimmed it up and have a screw through it to keep it located.

Offline Nortstudio

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Re: Too-Tired points procedure
« Reply #10 on: November 15, 2010, 06:29:45 AM »

These days, anything caused by human imperfection damages the environment.
[/quote]

Definitely not trying to do more damage to the planet - hopefully I nail this quick :)

Dave and Kevin, thanks so much for the photos (and Lloyd for the clarification).  At this point, these photos are worth 3,478 words and counting!  I'm going to give a shot at each of the three screw posts, to see which one works best, and then will work on a permanent shim, in place for good.

Appreciate all the help.

Scott
1976 CB550K...in progress
1975 CL360...eventually custom
2009 Husqvarna TE610

a blog about wrenching in Brooklyn, NY

“Success is dependent on effort.”
~Sophocles