Author Topic: Man, you guys are going to kill me. (Read 41140 times)

Mcwilliams570 · « **Reply #200 on:** October 12, 2011, 02:32:22 PM »

Love the build...How did painting your hubs go getting ready to do mine still prepping them should be ready to paint this weekend...

Matt

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #201 on:** October 12, 2011, 02:45:01 PM »

I just degreased them and stripped the clear. Still deciding on whether or not I want to paint or polish.

Got my aluminum!

I highly recommend onlinemetals.com

They shipped fast and the prices were reasonable.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #202 on:** October 15, 2011, 05:32:58 PM »

Another little update. Mocked up my next iteration of the motor mount, including the rear brace that clamps around the motor. The mockups were made out of cheap ply (that burns really easy). I didn't install the rear mount, I don't have the hardware to do so right now.

We also trimmed off the front motor mount. It was bigger than we wanted and took up too much space. I wanted more clearance.

Also went down to Cincinnati to pick up the rest of my big parts. These are the parts I need to make it a roller, so I can check the alignment of my drivetrain.

Finally, here's the drawings for my mounts. Only the holes are marked, we're going to be using a manual mill with some automatic functions, mostly a hole cutting program, which is why all the holes are dimensioned. The rest of the mount is going to be machined manually.

lucky · « **Reply #203 on:** October 15, 2011, 08:54:17 PM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 10, 2011, 05:57:37 PM

The efficiency loss with a belt driven CVT is actually worse than an automatic transmission. Syscrush hit the nail on the head, the extra weight and poor efficiency offsets the benefit.

I ordered material for battery brackets tonight. I'm using 1/8" thick 5052 aluminum, because it's much more suited for bending than 6061. I also ordered my 65 tooth sprocket and 13 tooth driven sprocket, for a 5:1 ratio.

A roller chain is 90% efficient. They are easy to get .They are inexpensive.

Those aluminum brackets are not thick enough.
They should be 1/4 min but more like 3/8 inch.
!/8 way too thin.

lucky · « **Reply #204 on:** October 15, 2011, 08:57:29 PM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 12, 2011, 10:41:14 AM

Thanks man. It's crazy, here at work people are getting excited about it too. This might turn into a department-wide project.

You better get control of that project before they take it away from you.

ivanhoew · « **Reply #205 on:** October 16, 2011, 02:06:45 AM »

Quote from: lucky on October 15, 2011, 08:54:17 PM

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 10, 2011, 05:57:37 PM
The efficiency loss with a belt driven CVT is actually worse than an automatic transmission. Syscrush hit the nail on the head, the extra weight and poor efficiency offsets the benefit.

I ordered material for battery brackets tonight. I'm using 1/8" thick 5052 aluminum, because it's much more suited for bending than 6061. I also ordered my 65 tooth sprocket and 13 tooth driven sprocket, for a 5:1 ratio.

A roller chain is 90% efficient. They are easy to get .They are inexpensive.

Those aluminum brackets are not thick enough.
They should be 1/4 min but more like 3/8 inch.
!/8 way too thin.

i'd use 1/2. by making 4 mounts and so doubling up on the 1/4 plate at each end .

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #206 on:** October 16, 2011, 05:16:22 AM »

That aluminum is for brackets to secure the batteries together. The motor mount is 1/2 6061 plate.

scottly · « **Reply #207 on:** October 16, 2011, 08:14:38 PM »

Lucky, please try to keep up with the current discussion; the Sheik has already done his homework on this project.

lucky · « **Reply #208 on:** October 16, 2011, 08:17:51 PM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 16, 2011, 05:16:22 AM

That aluminum is for brackets to secure the batteries together. The motor mount is 1/2 6061 plate.

Sorry... I will make sure to read it correctly next time.

ivanhoew · « **Reply #209 on:** October 17, 2011, 01:18:40 AM »

Quote from: lucky on October 16, 2011, 08:17:51 PM

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 16, 2011, 05:16:22 AM
That aluminum is for brackets to secure the batteries together. The motor mount is 1/2 6061 plate.

Sorry... I will make sure to read it correctly next time.

ooops!! me too :-)

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #210 on:** October 17, 2011, 05:39:12 AM »

No worries, I didn't really explain things thoroughly. I've run things across many engineers so I hope everything will work out like I plan....

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #211 on:** October 20, 2011, 06:28:17 PM »

Got a chance to actually do some real work tonight. I degreased my forks and triple trees, as well as some various fasteners.

I also blasted the top triple.

First time blasting anything before, it was really easy. I also got my rear sprocket today, and it's pretty huge. I'll have to check if I have any clearance issues.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #212 on:** October 23, 2011, 03:02:11 PM »

Okay guys, I'm about to buy some paint, and I have a quick question on painting aluminum. My parts will be bead blasted to remove any old paint and will wipe it down with a solvent to remove any grease or dirt. I've read that some people are using a product like Alodine to promote adhesion, and I'm going to be using Eastwood Chassis Black paint and primer, which is an epoxy primer and urethane topcoat. Do I need to use Alodine or will the epoxy primer bond well enough to a well prepared surface?

Thanks!

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #213 on:** October 23, 2011, 03:04:31 PM »

The epoxy primer should be fine mate. I use epoxy's every day at work and you would be amazed what they go on and virtually never come off....

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #214 on:** October 23, 2011, 03:11:51 PM »

Good news. Paint is ordered! I plan on hopefully having the fork lowers, triple tree, and some other bits by the weekend.

Syscrush · « **Reply #215 on:** October 23, 2011, 05:38:53 PM »

Epoxy primer will bond fine to a well-prepped surface. Just make sure that it's clean of any water, dirt, or solvents and you're good.

TwoTired · « **Reply #216 on:** October 23, 2011, 05:57:37 PM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 23, 2011, 03:02:11 PM

Okay guys, I'm about to buy some paint, and I have a quick question on painting aluminum. My parts will be bead blasted to remove any old paint and will wipe it down with a solvent to remove any grease or dirt. I've read that some people are using a product like Alodine to promote adhesion, and I'm going to be using Eastwood Chassis Black paint and primer, which is an epoxy primer and urethane topcoat. Do I need to use Alodine or will the epoxy primer bond well enough to a well prepared surface?

Thanks!

Alodine is primarily for aluminum to provide a surface oxidation barrier. Doesn't work as well on some alloys which have metals in them that don't oxidize to a non-permeable layer.
I would recommend Metal prep. They make several different versions for aluminum and steel. These clean and remove any surface oxides and does a mild "etch" of the surface for paint "bite". Epoxy can usually encapsulate remaining surface foreign bits. But, it is usually better not to have them there in the long run. Not fun to see your coating flake of chip off later.

Cheers,

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #217 on:** October 25, 2011, 04:09:14 PM »

New sprocket and degreased shocks. I'm still going to tear them down and see how nice I can make them look. The rubber bushing that fits onto the frame is pretty mangled. Can I get that bushing anywhere or do I have to order it through Honda?

Moved all the stuff to a nice big shop.

Bead blasted triple tree

Proto-Track on the mill used for the motor mount.

Blasted lower triple, conditioned with oxysolv, which puts a thin zinc phosphate coating to prevent rust and promote good paint adhesion.

Made a wooden mount to test our toothpaths.

The aluminum one getting milled. Cooled with denatured alcohol.

Bead blasted swingarm, with zinc phosphate coating. Still need to think more about replacing the bushings....more money.

Final motor mount, cleaned up with a file and hit with the wire brush.

Syscrush · « **Reply #218 on:** October 25, 2011, 06:19:01 PM »

Quote from: Sheik Yerbouti on October 25, 2011, 04:09:14 PM

Bead blasted swingarm, with zinc phosphate coating. Still need to think more about replacing the bushings....more money.

Well, it won't get cheaper to take care of the bushings once the swinger is back on the bike...

Quote

Final motor mount, cleaned up with a file and hit with the wire brush.

Beautiful. Love it.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #219 on:** October 25, 2011, 06:44:25 PM »

Thanks man, the rear mount is turning out to be something special too. We're using a piece of aluminum that started life as a fixture for some sort of milling process, it's about 1" thick, but we're going to face it down to around 5/8". It's seen some years.

Yeah, I'm going to have a big order with parts n more coming up, so I'll get a set of their bushings anyway. Other things I'm considering replacing:

- spokes, the ones on the back are really crusty. The front ones aren't as bad, but I might as well do them all at once.
- wheel bearings, swapping the old ones for double sealed
- steering bearings, tapered set from Allballs I guess

Syscrush · « **Reply #220 on:** October 26, 2011, 06:03:42 AM »

It can be tough to shell out the money up front, but you come out ahead in the end. You don't want to get this thing all together and then find that the head bearings or swingarm bushings are messing with the ride.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #221 on:** October 27, 2011, 03:25:22 PM »

Just a quick mockup to for swingarm clearance. Got room for days. Also laid some primer and started cutting the next piece. It's actually done getting milled, but needs to be drilled and tapped. The primer I used is Eastwood Chassis Black primer, it's serious stuff. It takes about a day to cure before you can topcoat it, but it feels really tough. The paint is Extreme Chassis Black in a satin finish.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #222 on:** October 28, 2011, 10:36:32 AM »

Looking good!

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #223 on:** October 28, 2011, 12:17:03 PM »

Thanks! I'm starting to get really excited. Mocking up the motor tonight, and I want to bead blast and prime the fork lowers. Then it's time to start getting these batteries mounted.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #224 on:** October 28, 2011, 06:50:29 PM »

Did some more work tonight. Blasted my one fork lower after taping it up really well. And gave it a coat of primer.

Went to go tackle the other fork and noticed a lot of oil around the chrome. Looks like a bad fork seal huh?

So I guess I better go ahead and get some new ones. My shocks look pretty god awful, so I'll probably get a set of those cheapies from Parts N More, and some new dust covers.

Moving on to the lower triple. How the heck do I get this guy off? I heard people recommend using a cutoff tool on a dremel or something. If I order new tapered bearings I no longer need these pieces right?

Also layed some of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black. It's great stuff. Sprays really smooth and almost looks like powdercoat when it dries. It takes about a week to fully cure so I'll let these dangle for awhile.

And finally, the rear motor mount is done. I can't take credit for it's design, a guy named Noah Podolefsky built a GSXR using a similar motor mount. It basically acts as a big clamp, with enough room for me to put in a nice rubber gasket.

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Author Topic: Man, you guys are going to kill me. (Read 41140 times)