Author Topic: Man, you guys are going to kill me. (Read 42031 times)

Syscrush · « **Reply #50 on:** December 17, 2010, 01:54:22 PM »

You can do surprisingly well using aircraft rivets & glue with aluminum construction - especially if you include some sheet gussets.

Alan F. · « **Reply #51 on:** December 19, 2010, 06:42:37 PM »

You should have a look on the web for homebuilt aircraft, there are tons of fabrication tips that could come in really handy in your project.

Have a look at Gorilla Glue if you decide to glue and rivet your battery frames, it's great for metals, fairly cheap, and widely available.

Raef · « **Reply #52 on:** December 19, 2010, 06:48:31 PM »

most auto body panels on newer cars are now mounted with various types of glue

check out auto body parts suppliers for a list and their applications.

Mark

Alan F. · « **Reply #53 on:** January 08, 2011, 09:31:23 AM »

Just ran across another electric bike build and got sidetracked from what I was doing...so here's what I found...

This guy's take on battery mounting is pretty cool.
Go to http://www.electricmotion.org/ click on 'steps' then go to 'step#7" for the rest.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #54 on:** January 09, 2011, 09:44:00 AM »

If you are set on using Aluminum (which is a good idea, given the scope of this project as well as the notion of working on a budget, be it whatever it is), do yourself a favor and either make friends with a welder or invest in a class and learn TIG/push-pull MIG and weld the Aluminum. Done well, it'll last and endure a lot of stress, will look better that gobs of rivets and gorilla glue (rivets would be fine, but the glue won't hold very long guys and you know that), and will provide a cleaner surface (visually and mechanically) to deal with later on in the project in terms of accessory/access panel mounting or simply cleanup. The only consideration with welding is, unless you already have the dimensions of the batteries you would like to use, or can make the mounting system adjustable, you won't be able to drill out a rivet and reposition it and then rivet it together again. My 2 cents.

CBGhia · « **Reply #55 on:** January 09, 2011, 12:18:11 PM »

What about this stuff? I have heard it works really well if used on smaller areas or on edges that can heat up properly. Might be just the thing on a budget.

http://www.alumiweld.com/

CBGhia · « **Reply #56 on:** January 09, 2011, 12:20:12 PM »

I thought I remembered someone here trying it.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=36600.0

Alan F. · « **Reply #57 on:** January 09, 2011, 03:38:48 PM »

I must have missed that thread, thanks. I'm actually an HTS-2000 guy. http://aluminumrepair.com/

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #58 on:** January 10, 2011, 04:29:30 PM »

Quote from: CBGhia on January 09, 2011, 12:18:11 PM

What about this stuff? I have heard it works really well if used on smaller areas or on edges that can heat up properly. Might be just the thing on a budget.

http://www.alumiweld.com/

Pretty cool! But at the same time I worry about the vibration it might be subjected to. I may just use steel and MIG it or spot weld. I'll have to talk to my school shop to see if they are equipped to MIG aluminum.

Thanks guys.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #59 on:** February 19, 2011, 02:48:47 PM »

I got a chance to do some work today before becoming a slave to homework. I took the grinder to the center stand mounts and various other tabs for the oil tank, etc.

As you can see there is a bit of surface rust but nothing a bit of sandpaper won't take care of. After smoothing over the parts I used the grinder on, it's going to get powdercoated black. I have a minor bit of fabrication to do. I'm making a battery tray out of angle iron, real simple. The other piece I have to make is a plate to mount the electric motor to the original engine mount.

Here's my tank and tail on my friend's CB750 frame. Looks pretty cool

Do any of you CB750 guys know what this tab is for? I forgot, it's been well over a year since I took this thing apart. Do I need it or can it get sawzalled?

Lastly, here's a royal enfield a friend is keeping in the garage.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #60 on:** February 19, 2011, 08:23:12 PM »

Anybody know what that tab is? I want to cut it off so bad

Ryan6838 · « **Reply #61 on:** February 19, 2011, 10:28:44 PM »

I know i know... lol its the tab that helps hold plastic at the front of the chain guard.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #62 on:** February 20, 2011, 06:41:28 AM »

hmmm, well the old chain guard is useless to me because I'm using a gigantic rear sprocket. Sawzall time!

CU2151 · « **Reply #63 on:** February 20, 2011, 01:54:18 PM »

I went to a presentation of Lennon Rodgers (the guy from http://www.electricmotion.org/) in my engineering school days and got to see his bike. It was really cool to see and ever since I've always wanted to do this. He was saying he could have reduced the cost of his bike if he would have bought stuff locally, like a titled frame, but he wanted to do it all from internet ordered parts to show it's possible even when you don't have great local resources. He seemed like a very nice guy and said he answers questions if you're taking on a project like this yourself.

Keep on keeping on! This is going to be such a sweet project in the end. Looking forward to seeing how she turns out!

ivanhoew · « **Reply #64 on:** February 21, 2011, 01:22:55 AM »

fascinating .

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #65 on:** February 21, 2011, 07:26:14 AM »

Quote from: CU2151 on February 20, 2011, 01:54:18 PM

I went to a presentation of Lennon Rodgers (the guy from http://www.electricmotion.org/) in my engineering school days and got to see his bike. It was really cool to see and ever since I've always wanted to do this. He was saying he could have reduced the cost of his bike if he would have bought stuff locally, like a titled frame, but he wanted to do it all from internet ordered parts to show it's possible even when you don't have great local resources. He seemed like a very nice guy and said he answers questions if you're taking on a project like this yourself.

Keep on keeping on! This is going to be such a sweet project in the end. Looking forward to seeing how she turns out!

It's kind of interesting sorting through all the parts, realizing what I need and don't anymore. My 12v system is just literally going to be just lights and a horn. I'm predicting it'll be pretty damn light too.

Check the classified section soon for all of my no longer relevant goodies.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #66 on:** February 21, 2011, 07:39:27 AM »

The plan has changed significantly since the sketches. I don't want to deal with all the weight and complexity of some sort of cover, so it's going to be super simple and light weight. The diagonal portion is the battery pack, consisting of 6 light weight SLA batteries. The tray that will hold the batteries will also hold the majority of the components. So the only pieces I have to fabricate are an angle iron battery tray and a motor mount which bolts into the existing motor mount (pictured below).

Syscrush · « **Reply #67 on:** February 21, 2011, 10:43:46 AM »

Lookin' good.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #68 on:** February 21, 2011, 11:27:28 AM »

It's too bad Lithium Ion is so expensive. That would take down the weight tremendously.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #69 on:** February 21, 2011, 01:30:17 PM »

Yeah, a lithium pack would take my battery weight down from 78 to 25 pounds for nearly the same capacity (assuming I would be using LiPo). But until charging and balancing is less cryptic, I'll wail on some lead batteries for awhile.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #70 on:** February 21, 2011, 01:33:20 PM »

Yeah, you don't want to overcharge those suckers... BOOM!

Can't wait to see this build finished. I'm all about green machines.

Raef · « **Reply #71 on:** February 21, 2011, 03:29:29 PM »

check out hobbyking.com if for no other reason than to just what some others are doing with stacking smaller batteries with big C ratings

go into the forum area there was a couple go karts and bikes, this place also has some pretty big brushless motors and speed controllers at good prices

mark

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #72 on:** February 21, 2011, 05:08:52 PM »

I've priced out a 20AH hobby king pack at around 88v nominal and it was relatively cheap (by that I mean like 700 something bucks) but when paralleling that many cells together there are certain charging issues that I have yet to figure out. A member over at elmoto made some beautiful battery boxes for lipo that help making charging and balancing simpler, but he charges 300 bucks a box (which is not unreasonable considering the amount of work he puts into them). Another thing about lipo is battery life and overall cell dependability. It's a more volatile chemistry, and doesn't have nearly the life of the larger, heavier lithium prismatic cells (thundersky, CALB etc.). They start losing capacity around 400 or so charges I believe.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #73 on:** February 21, 2011, 05:15:21 PM »

when i worked at my student newspaper there was a guy that converted his truck to electric. he created a plug and a bank of chargers to charge each pack separately. he said it cut down on charge time and it was cheaper becasue that big of a charger is expensive. ill look through my archives and see if i can find the article.

Sheik Yerbouti · « **Reply #74 on:** February 21, 2011, 05:50:13 PM »

Quote from: masterchief1112 on February 21, 2011, 05:15:21 PM

when i worked at my student newspaper there was a guy that converted his truck to electric. he created a plug and a bank of chargers to charge each pack separately. he said it cut down on charge time and it was cheaper becasue that big of a charger is expensive. ill look through my archives and see if i can find the article.

That solution works really well with SLA cells, and some lithium cells (cylindrical cells like Headway). The challenge for a motorcycle is fitting all those chargers onboard a tiny two-wheeled vehicle.

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Author Topic: Man, you guys are going to kill me. (Read 42031 times)

CU2151