Topic: using a CL/CB77 rear TLS drum "backwards"

[jaguar]

ive been looking at using a CB77 TLS rear drum on a project.
i know its  a 36 spoke and the axle is the same size as the cb750
I also know that its ment to run with the chain on the right. so what does it take to use the drum with a left hand chain?

some have told me its easy and you just make the linkage work and go.
others have told me it takes alittle work to flip the internals around.
and still others tell me it cant be done at all and it will never work

somewhere in there must be the truth.

i know the brake is big and heave but its also badass.....
please let me know if you have done it or seen it dont
thanks

[Old Scrambler]

The big-brake CL77 front and rear hubs and brake-plates use the same part numbers as the CB450...........The CL77 is on the left and the CB450 is on the right.........If HONDA could do it.......why can't you (we)?

[Ricky_Racer]

Very cool, Old Scrambler. Good info! I've got the same rear setup (with Suzuki 4LS front) planned for a Read-Titan. Thanks! RR

[Sam Green Racing]

The big-brake CL77 front and rear hubs and brake-plates use the same part numbers as the CB450...........The CL77 is on the left and the CB450 is on the right.........If HONDA could do it.......why can't you (we)?

Jag, what Dennis says may be true but both brakes are on the same side and both wheels are turning in the same direction. When you swap sides, you end up with a twin trailing shoe which is not as efective as the stock single leading shoe brake.

Sam.

[jaguar]

Well that's the kicker....
So how do you make a trailing shoe into a leading shoe?

[Sam Green Racing]

Well that's the kicker....
So how do you make a trailing shoe into a leading shoe?

You need to swap the shoes fixed pivot point with the fulcrum point of the actuating arm.

Sam.

[Old Scrambler]

The fixed point or hinged end of the shoes can't be altered because the pin is cast with the plate. You have two options when moving from a right-side to left-side sprocket:

1 - flip the wheel over and fabricate a plate-stay arm mount on the top of the swingarm. All else should work as before but be careful to adjust the arms to pull the LEADING edge nearest the motor. This can be visually inspected by using chalk on the brake pads.

2 - swivel the wheel a half-turn sideways to keep the brake stay on the bottom. Now you have to remove the fulcrum pins and swap them with each other. The cable-arm will need to be rotated away from the cable-stay cast onto the plate for cable clearance. You may have to fabricate a new cable for proper length. Then adjust the linkage to get the brakes to LEAD at the ends closest to the motor. You will also have to fabricate a new mount for the tension-spring.

[napoleonb]

A friend of mine also uses a CB77 2LS rear hub on his project.
It looks quite alright and brakes good according to him. To be honoust I didn't believe he has done much to the internals (never heard him mention something about this).
The hubs arent known for very good performance by the way, even though they are greater in diameter. A lot of CB50/77/72 race drivers switch to other brakes because of their performance.