Not sure about the type of signals you've got on that bike but the ones Honda used on the sohc 4's are the same type as my 81 CM400 has... what I'm getting at is remove the lens and look for a philips head screw, remove it and the parts beneath it, you're looking for corrosion. If you find any clean it all up with fine sandpaper and swab in a mess of dielectric grease before reassembling.
You might have a poor connection in some or all of your signals causing the conditions you've described. Clean and grease every connection on the bike, you'll thank yourself in the long run for the added reliability, especially when you find a mess of crap before it finds you.
Alan
I didn't get a chance to hook up my portable motorcycle jump-starter to my battery to check the turn signals and am hoping to do it today.
I do not have enough knowledge to be able to say: "If the battery is strong, and the bulbs and bulb sockets are clean, yet the signals still do not flash -- no connection problem would allow the signals to come on in their 'running lights' mode either." I wish I could conclusively say "okay, battery is strong, bulb socket etc. are clean, still no flashing, so therefore the running lights can't possibly come on either." If I knew enough to be able to say that -- it would indicate the flashing unit as going out since my running lights are coming on.
I'm gonna check behind the lenses -- if there is corrosion, would the 'running lights' mode of the turn signals be fine but the flashing mode not work? On the '80 cb900c, as soon as I turn on the ignition, the front turn signals come on in a 'less-brighter-than-when-flashing' amount of illumination, for 'running lights'. (Strangely the rear signals do *not* come on like that -- they stay dark. And that is identical to what my 1976 cb400f does, the front signals are running lights, the rear signals are dark.)
This bike has some surface oxidation here and there because it was stored outside for a time. I won't be surprised to find oxidation in the connects for the signals. I just bought some dielectric grease at Kragen, the clerk there told me to get some when I went in to buy rear stop light bulbs for my 1998 Jeep Cherokee. I did not even know dielectric grease existed before that.
I hadn't thought to check the bulb socket and internal connects -- thanks for the tip. I'm really hoping battery and/or connections will solve this.
The reason I spent the last week testing the headlight and turn signals is -- I had to re-connect the turn signals and re-install the front headlight ears and the headlight because the prior owner removed them, he had a big touring fairing on the bike. Lucky for me he saved the stock signals and headlight bucket. He had spliced into the stock cb900c harness and connected a bunch of wires for this fairing.
So when I removed the fairing, I found all these little blue plastic splicer connectors that are hinged to open up, you insert the wires then snap them shut and presto new splices into existing wires. Luckily, when I removed (and sold) the fairing, I found that he had left the stock turn signal and headlight connections on the old harness, although those are now routed through those blue plastic splicers.
My fear is, because there's lots of the blue splicer connectors he added -- there might be an open somewhere that somehow allows the turn signals to come on for their 'running lights' mode but not for the 'flashing' mode.