Author Topic: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions  (Read 1275 times)

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Offline import_tuner13

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Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« on: December 09, 2010, 10:29:37 AM »
best way to fire this puppy up?  i have the carbs coming back in about a week after having them rebuilt, new plugs, new oil, new battery.  tested compression and, according to some of the threads, I am going to get wacky readings.  just was wondering if it HAD compression, which it does 90, 120, 90, 150, also this was after putting a little oil in, with the kick start, when it hasn't run in so long.  The compression may normalize, right?  but back on topic.  how should i go about doing this.  am I missing anything i need to change?

Thanks!
Dan

P.S. I know it needs gas lol

Offline tango911

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2010, 10:33:43 AM »
youll want to check the valves (intake and exhaust), check the points and set the timing. 
make sure you have spark.
CURRENT STABLE:
1969 Honda Dream 305 (black)
1974 Mach III kawi 500 smoker
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K2 Original fixer up
K0 original fixer up
2006 CRF250R

Offline Kong

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2010, 10:52:00 AM »
Wet sump or dry sump engine?  Whichever it was, clean out the place where the oil sat all those years, either the oil tank or the oil pan depending on what bike it happens to be.

The compression may come back, in fact it probably will, but the problem isn't the low reading on one of the cylinders, its the large disparity between cylinders.  You said you squired some oil in and the compression came up that generally indicates lack of ring seal and if it doesn't come back its generally a sign of valve sealing issues.  At any rate I'd get it started, let it run for a while (keep it cooled) and then after a while I'd do another compression test with the expectation that the numbers would get a bit better once the surface rust is scraped and burned off the cylinders, valve seats/faces and other odd places its formed over the last decade.
2002 FXSTD/I  Softail Deuce
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1978 Honda CB550K
1977 Honda CB550K

Offline import_tuner13

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2010, 10:55:04 AM »
SORRY!  CB750K8.  i just assumed you all knew!  lol my bad.

Offline Tugboat

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2010, 11:22:22 AM »
I'm about to do something similar.. Some good advice on my thread here:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=80529.0
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing twice.

KingCustomCycles.com

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2010, 11:31:53 AM »
Eventually you will need to learn to clean carbs yourself.  It is part of owning a vintage SOHC and being more than a rider.  I can't imagine sending my carbs out every time they needed "rebuilt".   

Offline import_tuner13

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2010, 11:34:35 AM »
yes.  i know this.  i have 2 sets of carbs.  one i wanted to get the bike running, and one to mess with and understand them.  just kind of wanted to skip that part for now.  thanks for being on topic!

Offline Gordon

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #7 on: December 09, 2010, 11:44:38 AM »
yes.  i know this.  i have 2 sets of carbs.  one i wanted to get the bike running, and one to mess with and understand them.  just kind of wanted to skip that part for now.  thanks for being on topic!

You'd do well to appreciate voluntary help when it's offered, even when it's not the response you were looking for.

My recommendation is to give your carbs a thorough inspection when you get them back.  I've heard way too many stories from people who paid somebody else to "rebuild" their carbs, only to end up having to go back and re-do them themselves because they were screwed up.   

Offline import_tuner13

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #8 on: December 09, 2010, 11:51:56 AM »
SOHC digger is rebuilding my carbs, this was already discussed in another thread about me rebuilding my carbs or not. King was part of this discussion and it was recent.  Sorry, just getting tired of hearing that I should do my own carbs. So if SOHC Digger is messing up my carbs I expect everyone on this forum to yell at him!  :P :D and sorry didn't intend to be rude.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2010, 12:46:15 PM by importtuner13 »

Offline import_tuner13

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #9 on: December 09, 2010, 02:02:38 PM »
so how worried should I be about this compression thing?

Offline tango911

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2010, 02:06:50 PM »
as Kong said, once you get it all back together and you have everything checked as far as plugs, timing valves etc.   get it running a little bit and  then re check the compression.
CURRENT STABLE:
1969 Honda Dream 305 (black)
1974 Mach III kawi 500 smoker
K2 (project)
K2 Original fixer up
K0 original fixer up
2006 CRF250R

Offline Stev-o

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2010, 08:43:43 PM »
Digger's rebuilding carbs now? Cool, I have a rack or two I can send his way!
'74 "Big Bang" Honda 750K [836].....'76 Honda 550F.....K3 Park Racer!......and a Bomber!............plus plus plus.........

Offline import_tuner13

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2010, 08:13:20 AM »
insert digger rebuild topic here

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=78623.0

no other things to watch out for?

Offline phil71

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Re: Starting a bike that hasn't run in 10+ years questions
« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2010, 11:33:46 AM »
these are probably obvious, but here are some things I did a few weeks ago when waking a bike from almost 30 years of sleep.

*be patient: bathe the top cylinder with some transmission fluid and let it sit a few days, spinning the engine periodically by hand. This isn't scietific, but I have done 45º /90º/135º/180º  a couple times just to get the lube on as much of the sleeve as possible.

 * fresh oil, of a slightly thinner than spec'd grade (logic here being it will more easily get in and thru any nasty stuff hanging in the corners)
* new oil filter
*clean screen

Run till warm.
Drop thin oil.
Change filter again
put in spec'd weight, add a few oz of diesel fuel. Some say marvel mystery, but I've found that your clutch will start working again quicker with the diesel.
>> OH, and don't expect the clutch to feel right for awhile.. possibly at all, but x your fingers and keep working it.

forget your compression specs. You can't tell very much right now at all.
Good luck!