Author Topic: CAM type and setting HELP! (Read 34568 times)

bluesmoke69 · « **Reply #125 on:** January 26, 2012, 12:52:37 PM »

The bike looks great!! What kind of rear shocks are you using? Hope you get the bugs worked out before summer.

immortal · « **Reply #126 on:** January 26, 2012, 01:41:30 PM »

Quote from: bluesmoke69 on January 26, 2012, 12:52:37 PM

The bike looks great!! What kind of rear shocks are you using? Hope you get the bugs worked out before summer.

Thanks, The shocks I got from Ebay about a year ago. For the price they are not bad at all. This is a link to a different seller on Ebay but I believe the manufacturer is the same. I have a different color and removed the stickers. There are a couple of different ones if you look at his other items.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/13-5-Air-Shocks-Absorbers-Clevis-CB750-RD350-RD-H2-400-/180656842497?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a0ffca701

ChuckG750f1 · « **Reply #127 on:** January 27, 2012, 05:10:20 AM »

Immortal-
Thanks again, I ordered a Norman Hyde M bar yesterday. Learned about them here on your post. So, it begins...my first change to my stock f1.
-Chuck

Greggo · « **Reply #128 on:** February 05, 2012, 08:09:24 AM »

You've been nominated dude. Check it out and accept.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=101839.0;topicseen

immortal · « **Reply #129 on:** February 05, 2012, 10:16:20 AM »

Quote from: Greggo on February 05, 2012, 08:09:24 AM

You've been nominated dude. Check it out and accept.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=101839.0;topicseen

Hey Thanks Greggo!,

I really appreciate that and wasn't expecting it. All the bugs are out and she runs like a champion...with the exception of a cam tower drip that will get be taking care of. I need to get some decent photos uploaded. Thanks to all you guys!...this is my first build and couldn't of done this without all you guys here!

immortal · « **Reply #130 on:** February 05, 2012, 10:53:10 AM »

Just switched out my pods for a brand new NOS Henry Abe breadbox filter, I'm too embarrassed to say how much I paid for it. There was a slight stumble in acceleration and the pods were just pain in the butt to get the tuning right. This will solve the problem and seeing as I have lots of old chopper parts I thought I could get away with it.

immortal · « **Reply #131 on:** February 15, 2012, 06:48:51 PM »

Finally finished. Thanks to everyones help on this build. I realize its not everyones cup of tea but I just built it
to what I like without any consideration for other peoples tastes. Its got a lot of chopper parts integrated into a cafe style. Bit of a mish mash really but some people seem to quite like it which somewhat surprises me.

I will put together a Youtube video as she sounds really nice!

Any and all comments welcomed!...for now here's a bunch of pics...

immortal · « **Reply #132 on:** February 15, 2012, 06:52:47 PM »

more pics...cameras not so great sorry!

ChuckG750f1 · « **Reply #133 on:** February 16, 2012, 05:45:40 AM »

Immortal-

You brought a bike back from the dead and made a quality, personal expression! It's stunning...Keep the shiny side up.

-Chuck

liPPy · « **Reply #134 on:** February 16, 2012, 03:41:51 PM »

Nice touch with the Tax Disc

I'm also an expat living in the US and had planned on adding same to my bike!

immortal · « **Reply #135 on:** February 16, 2012, 05:50:23 PM »

Thanks guys and yes the tax disc is a obviously a reproduction I got on Ebay from a guy in the UK that makes them and sells them.

Real nice guy I think he sells the holders too. He did mine to be accurate to what you would of got when the bike was new, it has the original date, original tax cost, mailing location stamp etc. Cheers!

liPPy · « **Reply #136 on:** February 16, 2012, 10:29:47 PM »

Thanks - I'll have to ferret out that eBay myslef! Bike looks the dog's bollocks btw. I really like the airbox.

Quote from: immortal on February 16, 2012, 05:50:23 PM

Thanks guys and yes the tax disc is a obviously a reproduction I got on Ebay from a guy in the UK that makes them and sells them.

Real nice guy I think he sells the holders too. He did mine to be accurate to what you would of got when the bike was new, it has the original date, original tax cost, mailing location stamp etc. Cheers!

immortal · « **Reply #137 on:** February 27, 2012, 07:42:52 PM »

I moved my float needles to the middle position and while doing so I realized why my bike was not only running rich it was running like hell.

The nut on the choke lever had come loose which in turn released the pressure of the choke plate on the number one carb. The choke plate in turn dropped down and was permanently in the on position.

After doing all that the rich condition is gone and she is running like a freight train.

Lastly I finally figured out where to put my disc brake lock and helmet lock and other bits and bobs I wanted easy access to. I came up with the idea and paid way too much money for a vintage style leather bicycle tool bag. I measured it out and put it on and it fits and I think it looks OK.

That's me officially finished with my project. Its raining outside so just sitting here looking at it!

Thegreatgreg14 · « **Reply #138 on:** March 02, 2012, 12:27:01 PM »

I just read your whole thread and I really like your bike. I found it on a search about 750F wiring harness issues. I have 2 750F harnesses for my 1975 cb750F, both equally crappy (like most other peoples). My question for you is that if you did it over again, would you still get a 750K harness and modify it? Or do as "Carpy" says and go through and try to salvage the better looking of my 2 not so great harnesses? I appreciate the advice in advance.

immortal · « **Reply #139 on:** March 02, 2012, 12:49:20 PM »

Hi,

Welcome to the forum.

Good question and without a doubt I would absolutely use the CB750K harness on your CB750F. In fact I have no idea why I was told otherwise.

As I say in my thread I am terrible at electrical but I am so glad I went with the K harness. I think the cost was only about $75.00. Believe me when I tell you it was only my stupidity with electrical that made it a little tricky with the red connector. Knowing what I know now makes it a "no brainer"

This forum will get you through every situation you can imagine!

Good luck!

Thegreatgreg14 · « **Reply #140 on:** March 02, 2012, 01:13:12 PM »

Wow, very fast response! I will be ordering my 750K harness today. Thanks again for the advice.

immortal · « **Reply #141 on:** December 05, 2012, 07:55:35 PM »

Finished...I guess not...

I only had 1400 miles on this project and I blew out a Rod bearing on the freeway doing about 80mph. It was one of the few items I did not replace so I have the motor out right now for all new bearings and Hondaman is helping me by doing valve work and boring out to an 836 so I'm going through everything again. etc.

With that said I did make further improvements since the pics I last posted. I switched from the el cheapo China rear shocks to Hagon shocks which made an incredible difference.

I am also adding an led battery monitoring, color changing light to my ignition bracket. Replacing my valve cover for a freshly chromed one from Cycle-x, installing A Gordon frame kit as I should of done the first time around. Last but not least I get to redo those cam tower pucks with Permatex aircraft gasket sealer to get rid if that front drip which drove me to the brink of madness.

There will be a few other bits and bobs also so I guess I will post pics as I go...so I'm back on project thread again! This is going to be Pegasus 2.0 ...lol

Any comments are welcomed!

immortal · « **Reply #142 on:** January 16, 2013, 10:45:34 AM »

Hey Guys,

I need a little help with the Pegasus bike "again". Shes a 1976 CB750F.

Just recently blew out a rod bearing after 1800 miles so I am now boring from 811cc to 834
and have a set of high compression NOS RC Racing pistons. While im at it I put in a Gordons frame kit
and a upgrading the front shocks with Emulators and doing a nice valve job.

The PO story on the history of this bike seems to ring true as it was supposedly
a street ridden weekend drag bike back in the day. It had rearsets, the double row chain
and sprockets, the 811 kit, pods, oil cooler etc etc.

Anyway I am replacing all the bottom end bearings and sent my head to Hondaman who noticed my
head has super heavy duty valve springs, with fancy light weight retainers. He tells me to pull out
my CAM and photograph it to see if there is anything going on with it.

This is Hondaman's response to these pictures I sent him......

Wow, that's quite the cam! It was real wide lobes, and they look to be
much taller than stock as well. It is more than any of the old 811cc
Yoshimura cams I used to install, that's for sure. It looks to be a
fast-open, long-duration, fast-close lobe profile, which is a good
'method' for the SOHC4 engine. I'd strongly suggest making up a degree
wheel and getting a slotted sprocket from APE (if your cam sprocket is
not already slotted) so you can dial it to a position where the
overlap makes sense

It was certainly a high-RPM powerband engine! I'd guess it to be about
10500 RPM peak power range, if I read those lobes right. I'd estimate
their lift to be near the SOHC4 maximum, at 9mm or so?

...........................

Ok, so I went out and got myself a degree wheel as suggested.
My question is this, there are no numbers or anything on this CAM.
Can anyone tell me what type of CAM this would be? degrees suggested advance anything at all?

Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated!

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #143 on:** January 16, 2013, 11:45:26 AM »

What 811 was in it?

Don't remember which was which but I do know what cams I have. Thinking the left is the Megacycle 125-75, stock F0 in center and Yoshimura Daytona on right.

FunJimmy · « **Reply #144 on:** January 16, 2013, 12:45:11 PM »

Goes to show that looks are deceiving.
There’s no way to tell anything (except that they are cams) about the differences from that picture.

immortal · « **Reply #145 on:** January 16, 2013, 01:03:01 PM »

OK, Im not the sharpest tool in the shed.

There is an "R10" stamped on the CAM...Would that give any clues to what I have???.

Jerry RXman, Thanks for posting and the 811 kit just has 812 POPY stamped in the pistons.

MRieck · « **Reply #146 on:** January 17, 2013, 04:54:32 PM »

My good friend has a cam analyzer. Like this http://performancetrends.com/cam_test_stand.htm

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #147 on:** January 17, 2013, 10:08:49 PM »

Now that you have id'ed the pistons, my thoughts were that someone may have done as I did and buy the cam and kit together from Yoshimura. Yosh did 2 cams for the 750. Mine is the Daytona vs the Road Special. I can do some lobe height measurements if you'd like as a possible comparison. I may have lobe tracings too. Thatbwould be the only realistic way to id the lobe curve. I also have the Yosh specs for the cam if you can come to a conclusion about numbers using the degree wheel. No identifying Yosh marks on the cam. R10 means basically nothing at least to the end user. We've pretty much ascertained thats a cam blank casting number only. Honda supplier thing and pre-cutting.

As FunJimmy says, it's just a cam picture.

ivanhoew · « **Reply #148 on:** January 18, 2013, 12:44:30 AM »

fascinating discovery immo , no wonder it went well!

immortal · « **Reply #149 on:** January 18, 2013, 09:47:58 AM »

Thanks for the replies guys! Greatly appreciated!

Hondaman seems to think it's not a Yoshimura CAM. Here's what he said....

"Wow, that's quite the cam! It was real wide lobes, and they look to be
much taller than stock as well. It is more than any of the old 811cc
Yoshimura cams I used to install, that's for sure. It looks to be a
fast-open, long-duration, fast-close lobe profile"

Before I blew my Rod bearing the bike was running real nice, pulled like a freight train
had way more power than I expected from this old bike.....but...this is my first CB750 so I have not ridden another of which to compare it to.

The Cam wheel was a stock Cam wheel but now I have this adjustable APE Wheel, I'm wondering whether I should just advance 5 degrees as I thought I heard somewhere 5 degrees advance offers improved performance. Because I'm in over my head on this it would be nice if I could get a good "guesstimate" on
how many degrees to try to advance to ?? Should I be looking at advances others are using on "other" Fast open long duration CAMS

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Author Topic: CAM type and setting HELP! (Read 34568 times)