Author Topic: Engine paint removal (Read 3598 times)

Magpie · « **on:** March 21, 2006, 10:46:48 AM »

Hi all! I have 2 K motors I bought for cheap but both have been painted black and I want them silver/grey again. Has anyone found a good product to remove the paint especially from the head and barrels? Getting between the fins will be real interesting job. The motors will be coming apart eventually. I'm thinking it may be easier just to find another one that hasn't been painted and start the rebuild from there.
Thanks,
Cliff.

MRieck · « **Reply #1 on:** March 21, 2006, 11:03:10 AM »

Bead blasting

mlinder · « **Reply #2 on:** March 21, 2006, 11:06:05 AM »

A chemical stripper may be the way to go for you. Brush it on, let it sit, then take a hose and a brass brush to it. Best way to get into the nooks and crannies and such.

fotoguy79 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 21, 2006, 11:06:22 AM »

Walnut shells too... Just don't sandblast it because you'll pit your engine.

Magpie · « **Reply #4 on:** March 21, 2006, 05:03:31 PM »

Hi! Thanks for the replies! I'm trying a gel paint remover but hoped somebody had a magic "spray on-hose paint off" in their bag of tricks. Sometimes there's no easy way, just grind it out.
Cheers,
Cliff.

seaweb11 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 21, 2006, 05:40:29 PM »

The head I got on Ebay for the CL was a bit rough looking and because there was the unknown on the head itself, I took it to a machine shop to re set up the valve springs, stems etc.

They bead blasted it before working on it and it came out like new.

KB02 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 21, 2006, 06:25:22 PM »

A buddy of mine has given me an old KZ 550 to work on. The engine had been painted, but the paint did not set. If you ran your hand over any given part of engine, your hand came away painted silver. I tried some of that engine degreaser and that seemed to work on a small test section. Probably wouldn't be the best for an actualy good paint job (or one that was once good), but so far it seem to be working for me.

Noel · « **Reply #7 on:** March 21, 2006, 06:40:55 PM »

A decent blasting cabinet and a compressor big enough to run it will set you back maybe $300. I simply can't imagine owning an old motorcycle without also having a blasting cabinet. $0.02.

paulages · « **Reply #8 on:** March 21, 2006, 07:50:37 PM »

i removed the paint from my tank with some of the "graffiti removal" type aresol chemical. it worked great with that hard enamel, so i imagine it would work well on the engine, since i got mine clean with only acetone and 3m pads. it is a spray on/ rinse off type deal.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #9 on:** March 22, 2006, 02:17:14 AM »

Quote

"graffiti removal" type aresol chemical

Do you recall the product name?

theunrulychef · « **Reply #10 on:** March 22, 2006, 05:36:39 AM »

I've got my F2 engine out while I'm deciding how to get it rebuilt on the super cheap (my fiance is confiscating all of my bike money for the wedding). If I decide to tear down myself & beadblast it, what are some tips for making sure I don't ruin any of the vital engine surfaces? Do you guys tape off the barrels? Stuff rags in holes? The thing I would worry about most is getting all the glass out, and I don't trust compressed air to do the job 100%. I want the stock black off, but I also don't want to f@#$ anything up in the process.

Thanks,
Jay in Philly

Raul CB750K1 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 22, 2006, 06:54:54 AM »

I bought a spray gasket remover from CRC and I learned the hard way that it will peel off the engine paint. Actually I also bough paint remover -the gel type- and the gasket remover was faster and harder. It stays somewhat as a gel too, but is much more expensive.

Raul

mylittleho · « **Reply #12 on:** March 22, 2006, 07:00:13 AM »

I used aircraft stripper available in an aerosol can.. to strip the old powder coating off some valvecovers I was doing.. worked really well...

Available in the states at either Wal-mart (in the automotive section) or Autozone..

Magpie · « **Reply #13 on:** March 22, 2006, 07:31:36 AM »

Jay,
I spoke to a mechanic about bead blasting disassembled engines and he doesn't do it anymore. It seems that no matter how much they blew out the parts beads were showing up in oil changes after the engines were run. He didn't say if the beads caused any damage but if he doesn't like it that's good enough for me. The spray would probably work best between the fins so off to Wal-mart.
Cheers,
Cliff.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #14 on:** March 22, 2006, 07:33:55 AM »

I know Zip about blasting of any kind, but I have read about blasting with dry ice, no residue to worry about. However, doubt that it's something for the average garage set-up either.

huili · « **Reply #15 on:** March 22, 2006, 09:03:11 AM »

Hi everybody! I am also trying to restore my engine the problem I have is, I cannot decide between media plasting or aircraft stripper. The engine is already our of the frame and the top end is already dissassebbled. I was thnking about doing it myself and using aircraft stripper to get the head and case down to bear metal, but after reading some threads I am not sure how much grinding still needs to be done if I use a stripper, and what percautions I need, to protect the rubber parts. The only thing I did not take apart is the case and I think I have removed all the parts with rubber washers from the head and covers if there is anything else please let me know. The other options is media blasting how much is the average cost to media blast an engine, and if I already have the parts off would it be easier for me to just use stripper. Any and all opinion would be greatly appreciated. I live in chicago and today when I took my frame in for powder coating the attendent told me they would not blast my engine in fear of getting grit in the case, even though I had it all preped. Along with your suggestions please let me know there is anywhere close to chicago where I can get the engine meida blasted. thanks Hui

theunrulychef · « **Reply #16 on:** March 22, 2006, 09:09:44 AM »

Mmmmm, blasting with dry ice. One can always dream.

Magpie, thanks for the info. I guess stripper would probably be the best solution for me as well. I just know that it won't do as "clean" of a job as the blaster, but the idea of glass floating around in my oil makes me feel a tad bit uneasy.

Thanks,
Jay in Philly

mwvachon · « **Reply #17 on:** March 22, 2006, 10:13:12 AM »

Not to beat this thread to death, but also wondering about the next step (after stripping)? Any suggestions for surface prep following the strip process? Seems to be catchy as my engine is also apart and 'on the bench'. Machine shop is going to blast the head for me, but I still need to tend to the cyls and the cases. Wondering about using either alcohol or toluene to 'wash' the surfaces prior to primer/paint? Using the std high-temp silver paint that duplicates the OEM color.
Experiences out there? Good/bad/indifferent???

hcritz · « **Reply #18 on:** March 22, 2006, 11:25:17 AM »

Hey Guys...
After working with aluminum engines for a long time...glass bead blasting does a great job...BUT!!!...you never can seem to get all of it out of the nooks and crannys...the worst being in threaded holes...many time the bolt will go in, but when you try and remove it...the grit will jam the bold and it either breaks off or ruins the threads coming out. 930 Porsche cases aren't cheap either!!!
I think I would stick to chemical stripping or maybe blasting with some of the newer plastic media...haven't tried that.
The Dry Ice sounds very interesting!

Magpie · « **Reply #19 on:** March 23, 2006, 08:11:09 AM »

mw, regarding painting the engine, here's a good load of info, you'll have to scroll down to the engine part
http://www.mypages.co.nz/~andyf/Honda2.htm#Crankcase%20paint
Cliff.

ohiocaferacer · « **Reply #20 on:** March 23, 2006, 08:43:24 AM »

Heavy Duty Easy Off oven cleaner will remove most paint and its very cheap!!!

May have to repeat the process a few times...but it will remove most paints.

Later,
Greg

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #21 on:** March 23, 2006, 08:47:42 AM »

Have you tried it? What does it leave the aluminum looking like? Probably not an issue if you are planning to repaint, but was wondering in case someone was planning to leave the cylinders/heads bare?

ohiocaferacer · « **Reply #22 on:** March 23, 2006, 09:49:22 AM »

Yes.....just stipped the black paint from some handlebar switch housings.

I had to spay it on...let is soak for a few hours...then rinse with water and a rubbing with an old toothbrush. Repeated this process about 4 times.....and final finish was a dark grey alloy housing. I will be polishing these on a wheel...so they should polish up nice.

If you are gonna polish or repaint the parts.....the Easy Off treatment works great. I'll try and get some pics tonight of the recently stripped switch housings.

Later,
Greg

paulages · « **Reply #23 on:** March 23, 2006, 09:57:32 AM »

Quote from: Bob Wessner on March 22, 2006, 02:17:14 AM

Do you recall the product name?

no, but you can surely find several brands at your local home despot.

Magpie · « **Reply #24 on:** March 23, 2006, 12:25:22 PM »

Just for interest sake, ice is used for non-destructive cleaning, see this site
http://www.iceblast.net/
Cliff

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Author Topic: Engine paint removal (Read 3598 times)

fotoguy79

theunrulychef

mylittleho

huili

theunrulychef