Author Topic: If it works good, it looks good...right? (Read 37494 times)

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #200 on:** July 16, 2012, 10:02:17 PM »

...and here is after.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #201 on:** July 16, 2012, 10:03:30 PM »

whoops it's late...I gotta work tomorrow...more to come

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #202 on:** July 17, 2012, 09:20:55 PM »

...then I have a minor(lord I hope it's only minor, has been so far anyway)issue with the rear axle. Somehow, none of the rear axles I have are long enough...by just a little. If I use the big washer under the axle nut, the nut won't go on far enough to put a cotter pin in...so I left the washer out, figuring the cotter pin is more important

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #203 on:** July 17, 2012, 09:26:52 PM »

...then the headlight switch took some sort of crap, so I ended up bypassing it...

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #204 on:** July 17, 2012, 09:32:27 PM »

...so finally, this batch of parts ended up as a running, riding, mostly k4, with some thrashed '70's custom stuff that I didn't have good parts to replace with...

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #205 on:** July 17, 2012, 09:37:10 PM »

the seat is an old Corbin that came from the bike that donated the spare engine that's in my cafe It's low, firm and actually, quite comfy...not really my thing, but it kinda grew on me...the exhaust is of unknown manufacture, makes the bike sound a like an air cooled VW, has terrible ground clearance, and I couldn't get the headers to seal...

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #206 on:** July 17, 2012, 09:57:11 PM »

...or so I thought. In the coarse of putting about 200 miles on the bike, it kept eating the number 4 spark plug, and getting pretty hot. I attributed this to the exhaust leak, which, of course also sounded very much like cam/rocker noise

...finally, Tews19 graciously hooked me up with an old rusty MAC 4 into 1 when I bought a stock seat and a gas tank from him. I threw that pipe on there, and still had the tell tale tic tic tic and it was running on three cylinders again. This is about when I ended up pulling some rocker caps, and noticed there was more metal moving around than just the rocker arm...looks like a broken rocker shaft mount at least...tear down coming soon...of course I still got another spare engine that I'm gonna throw some gaskets in first. Really regret not getting some pics of the bike with the seat that I got from Tews19...it looks nice...hopefully working nice soon

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #207 on:** July 17, 2012, 10:07:50 PM »

just gotta do the wrenchin'...

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #208 on:** October 14, 2012, 06:09:36 PM »

I've been working on a motor for my red stockish bike. In the course of putting in some new gaskets and seals, I've found the exhaust valve guides to be a little wobbly, so those will get replaced, plus then it will need a valve job. So, while I save up the money, I've been doing some polishing...the stator cover was rashed, but with a little filing and a lot of sanding, I got it to look alright

Tews19 · « **Reply #209 on:** October 14, 2012, 06:36:45 PM »

Looks good Sean! You ever measure the rear axle?

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #210 on:** October 14, 2012, 07:05:05 PM »

nope...but I think I got that little mystery partly figured out. All my axles, I have a bunch of extras somehow, are all the same length...but I got this weird set of axle adjusters that came with a chrome swingarm. I keep trying to use 'em because they have these nice beefy 14mm axle adjuster bolts and locknuts...well anyway, they are thicker than the standard ones I've seen, so two of 'em together seem to take up the space of the big chrome washer...if anybody has any more insight into this, I would love to hear it

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #211 on:** October 14, 2012, 07:17:06 PM »

I've also been biding my time by doing the port and combustion chamber clean-up that Hondaman describes in his book...as this is a k6 head, it is really easy to find the problem areas and see what is needed to fix the inherent port flow problems, especially with Hondaman's writing and pictures to guide me. I've always been intrigued to try cylinder head porting but have always been afraid of ruining a good cylinder head. With Hondaman's info I felt confident enough to give it a try...and also, if you've ever taken a peek into the ports of a k6 head, it sure looks like just about any work done is gonna be an improvement.

Stev-o · « **Reply #212 on:** October 14, 2012, 07:34:07 PM »

The head looks good. What tool you use?

Tews19 · « **Reply #213 on:** October 14, 2012, 07:41:25 PM »

The one on the bottom looks like it comes from a 550. Not sure if that matters.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #214 on:** October 14, 2012, 07:47:02 PM »

...mini die grinder with a selection of carbide burrs, be careful with the burrs, they cut fast!, also some stones, they are easier to work with 'cuz they cut a lot slower and leave a smoother surface, and then some cleverly bent and rolled 80 grit sandpaper powered by my fingers. Hondaman recommends no finer than 80 grit on the intakes for a street motor. The exhaust is smaller so I had to borrow a dremel and some smaller stones and polishing exhaust ports is a real biotch for my fat fingers. I wouldn't have tried it without Hondaman's book...and be really careful around valve seats and guides!...don't do it to a head that's already had new guides and seats cut. In retrospect, I should have just done it all with the dremel...it fits in there way better and is easier to control the speed.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #215 on:** October 14, 2012, 07:49:46 PM »

Quote from: Tews19 on October 14, 2012, 07:41:25 PM

The one on the bottom looks like it comes from a 550. Not sure if that matters.

that is possible...doesn't seem to matter...Tews, you got both 550 and 750 right now? Can you get some comparison pics?

Tews19 · « **Reply #216 on:** October 14, 2012, 07:56:25 PM »

I did have a 550 but all are gone now. I'm positive they are the same as that came on my 550s. I can blow up a pic on my iPhone and they are the same. But if I post on the site you won't be able to zoom in as much. If you want I can figure out how to zoom in on pic and crop it. Then I can post.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #217 on:** October 14, 2012, 08:02:07 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on October 14, 2012, 07:49:46 PM

Quote from: Tews19 on October 14, 2012, 07:41:25 PM
The one on the bottom looks like it comes from a 550. Not sure if that matters.
that is possible...doesn't seem to matter...Tews, you got both 550 and 750 right now? Can you get some comparison pics?

I found some pics of 550 axel adjusters, looks like 550f interchange with 750, the smaller one is from '76 550k

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #218 on:** October 14, 2012, 08:06:47 PM »

Quote from: Tews19 on October 14, 2012, 07:56:25 PM

I did have a 550 but all are gone now. I'm positive they are the same as that came on my 550s. I can blow up a pic on my iPhone and they are the same. But if I post on the site you won't be able to zoom in as much. If you want I can figure out how to zoom in on pic and crop it. Then I can post.

that sounds like a big techno hassle that won't really help us much, thanks for the offer

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #219 on:** October 14, 2012, 08:56:39 PM »

I've got a few updates on the cafe bike too... these are old John Tickle rearsets made for the 400/4, so they required a bit of adapting. I got the brake side to work by changing to a different length actuating rod that I scrounged together out of my parts bin...the rod may have even been from a Harley

The shifter side merely needed to have it's rod bent into an s curve which was easily overdone with this bending device my buddy had. I have further improved and solidified the installation since these pictures were taken

I need to figure out powder coating for 'em as many of the parts are bare steel. Afterall, they feel and work great out on the backroads that I love to ride.

CBR954AD · « **Reply #220 on:** February 26, 2015, 05:10:33 PM »

Wow looks awesome, im trying to build or buy rear sets for my first cafe build, any tips

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #221 on:** February 26, 2015, 05:29:42 PM »

Quote from: CBR954AD on February 26, 2015, 05:10:33 PM

Wow looks awesome, im trying to build or buy rear sets for my first cafe build, any tips

If no one sells bolt on rearsets for your particular bike, it gets really hard...especially trying to look at stuff online. You can't just hold it up to your bike and see what needs to be done to make it fit without buying it first. I would start trying to collect related parts as cheaply as possible. That way at least, you will be able to physically see what you need to buy and/or make.

CBR954AD · « **Reply #222 on:** February 26, 2015, 05:50:30 PM »

Few months ago i did a post on the cb650.org and they said i can use rear sets made for 750 550 frames are pretty much identical. Also someone said that i can use any rear set i just have find way to make brake work. It really isnt that complicated. Also i really dont want spend $200 on rear sets if i can make a pair for $70 work.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #223 on:** February 26, 2015, 06:05:17 PM »

I would somewhat agree with that. The rearsets above were made for the cb400f and I spent 2 long afternoons modifying them to fit and function..and would add that I would rather spend $200+ on something that fits and works, then waste $70 and a bunch of time on something that doesn't.

CBR954AD · « **Reply #224 on:** February 26, 2015, 06:15:49 PM »

True i just finished browsing on cognitomoto i found rear sets for 750 for 260 complete . my bike is 650 however the frames are same, and im running a 18' DID 750 drum brake rear wheel, and a 79 gl1000 front end

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Author Topic: If it works good, it looks good...right? (Read 37494 times)