Topic: Removing Valve Springs on complete motor CB550

[Duanob]

getting ready to replace valve spring seals on a cb550 1976. I have a couple of questions:

1 I notice in the manual there are O-rings that seal the valve guides to the head. Should these be replaced and can the guides be removed while the head is still on the motor? I don't plan on taking the motor off the bike to replace the seals.

2 Has anybody ever used one of these tools it looks like it might be the perfect valve spring compressor for the CB550.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915017000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

I have my new valve guide seals, valve cover gasket, and 6 new rubber pucks so I think I'm ready.

Thanks.

[OneWheelDrive]

Having just used a tool very similar to that one to do just what you're doing, I can say it is definitely not the perfect tool.  There is very little clearance between the spring and the aluminum of the head, so an automotive spring compressor like that isn't ideal.  The ones like a large c clamp that reach around the head and compress that way would be much easier.

[Duanob]

C clamp type won't work. the head is staying on the motor and the motor is staying on the bike. But yeah I was wondering about clearance getting at the spring.

[Kong]

You can buy kits that have an air fitting that screws into the spark plug hole into which you blow air to hold the valves up to remove/replace springs.  Its similar to a compression tester fitting but it gives you the ability to blow air into the cylinder and then lock it there with a valve. I'm certain Snap On used to make them, I'm sure others do as well.

[MCRider]

getting ready to replace valve spring seals on a cb550 1976. I have a couple of questions:

1 I notice in the manual there are O-rings that seal the valve guides to the head. Should these be replaced and can the guides be removed while the head is still on the motor? I don't plan on taking the motor off the bike to replace the seals.

2 Has anybody ever used one of these tools it looks like it might be the perfect valve spring compressor for the CB550.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915017000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

I have my new valve guide seals, valve cover gasket, and 6 new rubber pucks so I think I'm ready.

Thanks.

having done this on my CB750 (removed the valve springs while the head was still on) I helped a guy here with his CB500. Don't rememebr his handle. He bot a spring compressor external type. But he said there wasn't enough room. But he was able to compress the spring to get the keepers off with the help of his son I think and some screwdrivers. The Oring on the guide is a non-issue, you won't be touching the guides. Just get the springs off, replace the guide SEALS, replace the springs and get on. I simply raised the pistons to TDC on the cylinder i was working on. That was enough to hold the valves closed enought to make the switcheroo. A suggesstion I thoug sounded interesting was to shove some string in the cylinder as you raise the piston up to TDC, that would hold the valves closed even more. Then pull the string out and go to the next piston, one at a time.

[lone*X]

If you cant find the air fitting to hold the valves in place during removal of the springs you can also do it the poor mans way.  Take a roll of cotton cord, with the piston of the valve set you are working on at the bottom of the bore, insert the cord into the spark plug hole and start feeding it in.  after a few feet of cord are inserted bring the piston toward the top of the cylinder.   Carefully compress the cordage in the cylinder with the piston until the valves are pressed tight to the head.  Proceed with spring removal.  When done, rotate the piston down a bit and pull the cord out.  Go to the next cylinder and repeat.

Opps, sorry for the repeat of MCriders method.  Guess I didn't read his whole post.  Same method.  We used to do this on big block Mopars that liked to smoke due to bad valve guide seals. 

[MCRider]

If you cant find the air fitting to hold the valves in place during removal of the springs you can also do it the poor mans way.  Take a roll of cotton cord, with the piston of the valve set you are working on at the bottom of the bore, insert the cord into the spark plug hole and start feeding it in.  after a few feet of cord are inserted bring the piston toward the top of the cylinder.   Carefully compress the cordage in the cylinder with the piston until the valves are pressed tight to the head.  Proceed with spring removal.  When done, rotate the piston down a bit and pull the cord out.  Go to the next cylinder and repeat.

Opps, sorry for the repeat of MCriders method.  Guess I didn't read his whole post.  Same method.  We used to do this on big block Mopars that liked to smoke due to bad valve guide seals. 

No problem. This is the coolest thing ever. I did mine 15 years ago. By now there's got to be tons of old inline 4s that could stand to have their guide seals replaced, but everything else is fine. Hope we've helped.

[dcil]

+1 on string. works great. I use 1/8 nylon

[Duanob]

Damn you guys are good! I plan on doing the rope trick. In fact if I am patient enough I may make a 'How To' thread with pics. Unfortunately my wife gets pissed off when I get greasey finger prints all over her camera. And my camera cost way to much to get grease all over it. Maybe I can talk her into taking pics while I work on it. For kicks and grins I bought this spring compressor for $15 at HF we'll see if it fits. Seems like it may fit into tight places.

http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-overhead-valve-compressor-92900.html

Now all I need is time and a fairly warm day to do this (Unheated garage). I might have to wait until after the holidays. Getting excited for my bike to "kick the habit" if you know what I mean.

 

[50BMG]

I bought the 15.00 harbor fright and had no luck with it. there was no room to get it between the head and the spring. I am taking the grinder to the tool this weekend. what tool is the wright tool ?? we cant be the only ones that have this problem

[MCRider]

I bought the 15.00 harbor fright and had no luck with it. there was no room to get it between the head and the spring. I am taking the grinder to the tool this weekend. what tool is the wright tool ?? we cant be the only ones that have this problem

The forum member I was corresponding with, I forget who, discovered that the tool was too big for the 500 head (though it worked on my 750 head) as well. He realized that with some extra hands ( I think he enlisted his son)  he could just push the springs down by himself, I think maybe some screwdriver levers or such. he indicated it was no big deal and he got the seals swapped out. Wish I could rememebr who it was.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

I tried that HF tool also, no dice.  Since my head was off, I went the C-clamp route.  To access the retainers when the springs were compressed, I used a short piece (about an inch) of channel iron.  Once compressed, I could use the greased-up tip of large tweezers to manipulate the retainers.

I think combining the rope trick plus an assistant or a leaver to compress the springs plus some sort of "access channel" you should be able to do this with the head on.

[Duanob]

Nothing is ever straight forward with these bikes is it? Luckily my neighbor builds bike frames so I think I can solicit his help to make a tool or modify the HF tool. I had to modify the HF circlip tool to dismantle my brake master. That worked out. You never know.

[lucky]

Having just used a tool very similar to that one to do just what you're doing, I can say it is definitely not the perfect tool.  There is very little clearance between the spring and the aluminum of the head, so an automotive spring compressor like that isn't ideal.  The ones like a large c clamp that reach around the head and compress that way would be much easier.

Some confusion here.
They want to put on new valve guide seals without removing the cylinder head.
It can be done but you need to make your own tool.

[Duanob]

Hey Lucky, do you ever show up to a party when the keg is dry and everyone is already gone home?

[lucky]

Hey Lucky, do you ever show up to a party when the keg is dry and everyone is already gone home?

 Do you?

Some forum members may be reading this forum and do want the information.

[dave500]

hey hey hey,, here i am guys!sorry im late!hey wheres all the beer!!!!

[tino montreal]

Ok, I know this may not apply, but I will try over the next few days and let you know....I used tie wraps to get my valve springsncompressed on my 1990 honda CRX so going to try on my CB500, possibly tonight.

[tino montreal]

Ok no way tie wraps will work.....scratch that one down.

[tino montreal]

Going to use C-Clamp and modified Socket...will post photos once tried, tested tonight.

[bwaller]

MikesXS

http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0115.html

[flybox1]

Going to use C-Clamp and modified Socket...will post photos once tried, tested tonight.

C-clamp wont work in this application as he's not removing the head.

But for those interested, an automotive O2 sensor socket already has the cutout.  no mod req'd.

[Duanob]

Wow this is an old thread. Yep, removed the head and let someone else do the valve work.

I forgot about the keg party comment  poor Lucky we like to pick on him 

[goldarrow]

I've used this with great success

[Duanob]

I've used this with great success

That's a great tool if you just need to replace the seals, where did you get it?

[Maurice]

That only works on CB750 heads. CB550 the springs are buried in the head.



I used this thing, ghetto as hell but worked. It's some dremel attachment piece... Yes that's an old head bolt rubber puck to hold the valve.

[goldarrow]

I've used this with great success

That's a great tool if you just need to replace the seals, where did you get it?

From Local swap meet a while back for only a few bucks.    yes, great tool to remove springs and change seals.  I had my engine apart but forgot to change seals after the head was buttoned down. 

[goldarrow]

I bought this from swap meet a while back too but haven't tried using, so not sure how this will work over the head

[tino montreal]

Well, I used parts everyone has at home....check photo out, and it worked like a charm. Used 3/4" socket, but think a 5/8" socket may be better. So that's a large C-clamp and a 5/8" socket --> cut a window out of socket with grinder and used wife's tweezers to pull spring collets out! I hope this will work as easy putting back on  Oh yeah, this only works if the head is off.

[flybox1]

I've used this with great success

That's a great tool if you just need to replace the seals, where did you get it?

From Local swap meet a while back for only a few bucks.    yes, great tool to remove springs and change seals.  I had my engine apart but forgot to change seals after the head was buttoned down.

Goldarrow!!!   I've been wondering if these would work on my 750 head.  Nice to know.  Thanks for those pics.
KD Tools KDS379 Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271300226036?lpid=82

[TwoTired]

Valve guide seal replace with head still on.
I cobbled some tools together for the task.  See pic one.
 Bring the piston for the cylinder being worked on to TDC by turning the crank, then back the piston back down in the bore a little ways.
Pack the cylinder with small rope as shown in pic two.  (This happens to be window curtain pull rope I found in my garage.)  You feed into the cylinder 6-8 inches of the rope end (recall that the compression chamber for the 550 is only about 10cc of volume and you just want to fill that), then bring the piston back up to near TDC, which mashes the rope between piston and the valve so the valve stem shouldn't move while the spring is off.  (simple test)
Lever the spring down (compress), then remove the keepers from the stem with a small magnet.  Move the spring off the valve to access the valve stem seal.  Pry off and press the new one on. 
Reposition the spring and retainer.  Compress the valve spring again and re-install the keepers, with forceps or bent needle nose pliers. 
Release spring compression pressure noting that the keeper have returned to original (proper) position. 
After doing the other cylinder's valve, back the piston down in the bore and pull the rope out of the spark plug hole.

Move on to the next one...

[flybox1]

clever lever you've got there TT 

[horrid550]

If you cant find the air fitting to hold the valves in place during removal of the springs you can also do it the poor mans way.  Take a roll of cotton cord, with the piston of the valve set you are working on at the bottom of the bore, insert the cord into the spark plug hole and start feeding it in.  after a few feet of cord are inserted bring the piston toward the top of the cylinder.   Carefully compress the cordage in the cylinder with the piston until the valves are pressed tight to the head.  Proceed with spring removal.  When done, rotate the piston down a bit and pull the cord out.  Go to the next cylinder and repeat.

Opps, sorry for the repeat of MCriders method.  Guess I didn't read his whole post.  Same method.  We used to do this on big block Mopars that liked to smoke due to bad valve guide seals.

very clearly written, thank you!

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2

[lone*X]

Thanks, one change though.  Use TT's measure of cord, 6 to 8 inches instead of my reference to a few feet.  As stated in the original post, we were working on a lot of big block V8's when I was doing that regularly.  The compression chamber is quite tight on these motorcycle engines.

[KayOne]

Used this tool to change my valve seals on my '79 CB750F DOHC in the frame. This really works well, I used air to keep the valves up but you could also use rope.

Tool Review Lisle 36050 Valve Keeper Tool MORE Spanky