I changed out the idiot lights on my 550, read here for the scoop -->
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=7931.msg72438#msg72438Can't help you on how to get to the bulbs, but mine were a pain, quadruple joints required. That was until I looked at the damn exploded diagram and realized the whole thing popped off, making life much easier.
Well, I just looked at yours. And what do you know, they are the same. There's a clip (#4 on the diagram) that unsnaps and the whole idiot light holder thing (#3) pops off for ease of bulb replacement.
And I have found the 4-LED idiot lights to be just right during the day, very noticible. At night, they are a bit too bright and the gauges are a bit too dim (they do work better with the black faced gauges I'm now running instead of the green), but as I don't do very much night riding, I'm sticking with them for the day visibility.