Author Topic: 1973 stock repaint question & answer  (Read 494 times)

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Offline Atlantic

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1973 stock repaint question & answer
« on: December 20, 2010, 03:57:08 PM »
I am finally getting to repaint my bike (just hoping for the rain to stop here in SoCal). Parts are sanded and somewhat well-prepared. I am not a complete novice to painting - I do have some experience with single stage (painted my car this year :) ), but never did anything that involved decals, different colors, and taping off sections.
The paint arrived and I am just waiting for the decal now.

My questions are :
- when in the painting sequence will I apply the decals and paint the black area that is surrounded by the decals ?
- which paint should I use for the black area ?
- how can I make sure that taping up the decals and the black area does not destroy the decal or harm the black color? Or do I tape up the everything but the area that will be black?

The sequence I am referring to is:

- primer/sealer coat
- blue base coat
- gold top coat
- clear coat

Any tips and tricks are very welcome - thank you!
« Last Edit: December 21, 2010, 07:01:19 AM by Atlantic »

Offline wildcatmahone

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Re: 1973 stock repaint question
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2010, 04:26:19 PM »
It would be very useful if you state what model and year and what paint system you are using.

Offline Atlantic

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Re: 1973 stock repaint question
« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2010, 06:24:03 AM »
sorry, I guess I focused more on getting out my questions right.
It's for a 1973 750  in Candy Bucchus Oilve.

I have received an answer from Don (who I bought the paint from). Long story short - the black and the decal are done between clears. Here it is for those who are trying to do the same thing :

OKAY HERE WE GO...FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AS SHOW BUT WHEN YOU GET TO THE CLEAR STAGE YOU WILL USE ONE BOTTLE OF CLEAR AND HALF OF THE BOTTLE THAT HAS AN "A" ON THE BOTTOM, THIS IS THE ACTIVATOR. SAVE THE OTHER BOTTLE AND THE ACTIVATOR  FOR LATER (DONT MIX THIS TILL YOU ARE READY TO SPRAY.
CLEAR YOUR ITEMS AND LET DRY...THEN YOU WILL USE A 1000 GRIT WET/DRY SANDPAPER. SOAK THE PAPER IN WATER WITH A FEW DROPS OF DISH DETERGENT.
LIGHTLY SAND THE TANK BEING VERY CAREFUL AROUND THE EDGES SO YOU DONT SAND THROUGH, DONT SAND IN THE CORNERS WHERE YOU CANT GET A POLISHER JUST THE MAIN SIDES AND TOP FRONT..YOU WILL NEED SOME URETHANE ENAMEL BLACK PAINT, I CAN GET THIS TO YOU FOR 29 BUCKS IF YOU WANT. YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE A TEMPLATE OF THE AREA THAT WAS BLACK ON YOUR TANK AND MEASURE TO MAKE SURE IT IS CENTERED ON YOUR TANK TOP AND SIDE. THEN YOU WILL MARK THIS AND MASK OF THE TANK LEAVING THE AREA TO BE BLACK EXPOSED..COVER EVERYTHING ELSE VERY GOOD.I USE FINE LINE TAPE AROUND THE EDGE AND MAKE SURE ITS PRESSED DOWN REALLY WELL SO NO PAINT CAN BLEED UNDER THIS, I GO A HAIR OVER SO THE BLACK WILL BE UNDER THE EDGE OF THE DECAL..SPRAY LIGHT COATS JUST TILL YOU GOT A GOOD COVERAGE, DONT WANT THIS TOO THICK SO VERY LIGHT COATS BUILT UP IS BETTER AND WILL LEAVE A SMOOTH THIN EDGE. THIS WILL BE BARELY NOTICEABLE UNDER THE DECAL.ONCE THE BLACK IS TACKY CAREFULLY REMOVE THE TAPE AND LET DRY OVERNIGHT. LIGHTLY SAND AND THEN YOU CAN CLEAR EVERYTHING WITH THE SECOND BATCH OF CLEAR OR APPLY YOU DECALS AND CLEAR OVER THEM, FACTORY IS ON TOP OF THE CLEAR.
ALSO WHEN YOU APPLY THE DECALS USE LUKE WARM WATER AND A FEW DROPS OF DISH SOAP AND WET THE TANK AND THE BACK OF THE PEELED DECAL. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO PLACE THE DECAL RIGHT WHERE YOU NEED TO, THEN SMOOTH THIS USING A SOFT CLOTH AND A HAIR DRYER TO REMOVE THE WATER UNDERNEATH AND SHE STICKS WELL..