Topic: Check out these float valves!!!!!

[grumpy]

I think I may have found the cause of my mixture issues.
The set on the left is an aftermarket set that I just pulled from my carbs - K&L I think...
On the right is a new OEM Honda set.

See any differences??!?!  

[faux fiddy]

750?

Where do you get the oem honda stuff? I'd like to get some for a 350f.

The needles actually look pretty similar.

[little honda]

ya looks like the oem one can fill a float bowl a lot faster than the after market one. could affect the fill time and run condition at speed.
                                                                                                mike

[ekpent]

Typical for some of that aftermarket stuff.I have seen some aftermarket 750 slow jets that were way off-way to big. Best to save and re-use the old as much as possible 

[mec]

I think I may have found the cause of my mixture issues.

if the hole in the valve is bigger (by a certain amount) than the hole in your main jet, than there is nothing to worry about.

could affect the fill time and run condition at speed.
                                                                                                mike

this only counts when the bike stands still for weeks or more, when you open the fueltank petcock.

mec

[grumpy]

@ tree fiddy of industry - I got them someplace online. Not exactly sure where, it's been a while (maybe Bike Bandit?). Usually I just google the part number. 

--------------------------------------------

 Look particularly at the needles:

The after market is longer overall and the taper at the top is completely different.
Longer = lower fuel levels in the bowls.
Taper = funky flow levels.

Also - The hole on the left doesn't look like it's much bigger than a 120 main.

FYI - A while ago I did the clear-tube-up-the-outside-of-the-bowl method to measure the fuel in the bowls and mine were way low. I was running lean at about 3/4 to WOT (stumbled at WOT and jumped as the throttle was closed). I think I found the culprit.
A short test ride last night showed some improved mid range snap and no more gagging at WOT.

[Bodi]

You set the float level to the valve, so there won't be any difference there.
I've never had issues with restricted float valve flow, only leakage. And the OEM Keihin ones are better at not leaking in my experience.

[grumpy]

You set the float level to the valve, so there won't be any difference there.

Ah, true but when you set the floats using a spare set of carbs sitting on the bench then some inconsistencies arise. Sorry, I didn't say that at the top.


What about the sprung plunger doohickey on the bottom?
On the aftermarkets that thing has to travel a couple of MMs farther before the tang hits the needle. I think that might have something to do with the leaking/overflowing.

[faux fiddy]

Typical for some of that aftermarket stuff.I have seen some aftermarket 750 slow jets that were way off-way to big. Best to save and re-use the old as much as possible 

I have a dozen I'd love to use, but they are clearly erroded. We talked about the minimal amount of grinding that could even be done to fix the seat (not Much).

We were talking about putting the worn ones in a lineup on the optical comparator to take a pic to post for "hmmm's."

In addition the used ones seem to get stuck, and the pin no longer springs out.

[KingCustomCycles.com]

"In addition the used ones seem to get stuck, and the pin no longer springs out."

A pencil torch, carefully applied, and a drop of ATF will free those up just fine.  Work it back and forth with small needle nose pliers to get the ATF worked into the spring.  The heat loosens the varnish and gum enough to get the solvent action of the ATF to work.