Topic: Fiberglass tanks

[Geeto67]

As for Ret Kote, it doesn't matter what you pour it in. If it comes loose inside the tank it will still function perfectly, it is basically like forming a new tank inside your old one.

I sent an email to the Damon Industrial product customer service rep about Red Kote use with fiberglass.  His response:
________________________________________
Lloyd,

Sorry to say that Red Kote is not to be used with fiberglass tanks. It is designed for metal tanks only.

I don't know of any product for fiberglass, but my guess is there is something out there.

Best of luck,  Brent
________________________________________

I sent a similar request to the POR-15 people.  No response yet, though.

So far, it looks like the best approach to lining a polyester glass tank is to coat it with an epoxy lining more resistant to fuel attacks.

Cheers,

At the radiator shop we used to pour it in everything. We even had a metal motorcycle tank that we cut apart and took the line out so we could show people. I know it is not specifically designed for fiberglass and I don't know how long it will hold on glass since I didn't have either of my tanks very long (long story) but I know that it wont eat right through it. Then again I last worked at that shop 3 years ago so it is possible they changed their formula too.

To be honest, MAny OEMs used fiberglass tanks on their street bikes (norton commando and ducati 750SS comes to mind) so if you use a fuel proof resin is there even a need to line the tank? Think about how many fibergalss tanks there are out there left over from the 70s, there is usually one a week on ebay. Usually those tanks are retired because of cracks from being dropped, not delaminating.

If you are worried about a glas tank holding gas you could always build a shell cover instead. Many companies in the 1970s did this as the british government would not allow fiberglass gas tanks on street bikes (because they don;t hold up in a crash).

[TwoTired]

At the radiator shop we used to pour it in everything. We even had a metal motorcycle tank that we cut apart and took the line out so we could show people. I know it is not specifically designed for fiberglass and I don't know how long it will hold on glass since I didn't have either of my tanks very long (long story) but I know that it wont eat right through it. Then again I last worked at that shop 3 years ago so it is possible they changed their formula too.

Okay, I have, brand new in box, complete body work, gas tank to rear fender, in shaped fiberglass, front fender, too, that I got from Gene Gaddy several years ago.  If that isn't cool enough, it has a show style, wild custom 70's paint job in perfect condition.  While there may be other bodywork like this, the paint job is unique to this world, possibly from some drug induced imagination.
I don't know where the bodywork was designed, but it was fabricated from molds in Mexico in the 70s.  Since Epoxy resins were 10 times more expensive than polyester, I have little confidence that the more expensive type was used during fabrication.  Further, polyester resin was pretty resistant to the fuels of that era, so why not use that to save on costs?

Present day, pump gas has changed with chemicals added unlike what was available in the 70s.  If it attacks the fiberglass resin, a unique paint job, and fairly rare bodywork, is lost to the world.  The manufacturer of Red-Kote says its not to be used on fiberglass.  Is it's use, regardless of recommendations, wise?

Please advise.

[theunrulychef]

I contacted the POR-15 people a while ago & they did not recommend using their liner, or any other product of theirs to line a fiberglass tank.  They said it requires metal to bond to (preferably steel).

I'm getting some pics together, I'll try to post them later on tonight w/ an explanation of how I'm going to do the filler & petcock etc.

-Jay in Philly

[theunrulychef]

Ok, so I've finally got some pics of my project & tank online here.

The filler will be attached with 4 bolts.  I'll put flanged anchors (like used in wood) on the inside of the tank to bolt the filler cap to.  Then, I'll glass layers up around the filler.  Once that's done, I'll unbolt & remove the filler.  Then I'll make a gasket to sandwitch in between the filler & the tank.  This way, I'll be able to remove the filler for painting, polishing, cleaning etc. 

I made a brass tube bung for the petcock (unfinished at this point).  It'll have a flange that will be glassed in, probably with some rivets or bolts as well.  In addition, I'll solder a large nut over the tube part of the bung. That way, when I'm installing or removing the petcock, I can use another wrench to steady the tube, instead of having all the force being taken by the fiberglass.

The whole thing looks like a big mess right now, but once I'm done taking my health break from fiberglassing (kinda got to me after 2 weeks solid), I'll sand her down & keep laminating.  I still have to install the attachment points on the underside of the tank, but I've got my scheme all worked out.  It's just a matter of making that final push. 

-Jay in Philly

[ohiocaferacer]

Hey guys...sorry for the delay in getting back on here....been down sick with some freak'n stomach virus.

A couple people have emailed me about using the liners on the fiberglass tanks. I cannot remember what kits were used to line the tanks. Back in the mid to late 90s I was building a race bike to run in AHRMA......and was trying to find a tank to run and couldnt decide between the fiberglass or the alloy tanks. One year up at Mid-Ohio I meet a guy who was running a Ducati 250/350 singles fiberglass tank from Airtech, on his CB175 for the 200GP class. I had heard all the stories about the fiberglass tank....and since his had a nice paint job and some money into it.....I asked him about the melting of the fiberglass. Thats when he told me about the liners. I know I wrote down the info.....but since I decided to go with the alloy tanks, I have no clue what I did with that info.

Later,
Greg

[bill440cars]

    Hey Greg,
              Sorry to hear about your run in with the virus, that stuff must be hitting all over the place.
      Just last month, my wife and I both had it and that junk can sure get you down. Glad you're
      back. Take care of yourself and we'll catch you later.  Bill

[ohiocaferacer]

Thanks Bill!!

......yeah everyone around here has it. I got it twice in one week.....thought I was over it....then my son got it....next thing I know...couple days later.....I had it again.

Later,
Greg

[Ricky_Racer]

Hey, Guys... The only sealer I've found on the market for fiberglass tanks is made my Hirsch Automotive Products, 1-800-828-2061, www.hirschauto.com and is advertised in Hemmings. The product is called "Bill Hirsch Alcohol Resistant Gas Tank Sealer". 

From the instruction sheet.."WHY IS BILL HIRSCH GAS TANK SEALER THE BEST ON THE MARKET?

IT IS BETTER BECAUSE IT SEALS HOLES AND SEAMS FAR BETTER THAN ANY OTHER SEALER. IT HAS GREATER STRENGTH AND AT THE SAME TIME HAS THE FLEXIBILITY THAT A PRODUCT OF THIS TYPE IS REQUIRED TO HAVE; SOMETHING OTHER SEALERS DO NOT HAVE. IT IS A NON-POROUS COATING AND IS NOT AFFECTED BY ANY ALCOHOL OR FUEL ADDITIVE. IT WILL WORK ON ALL TYPES OF TANKS SUCH AS STEEL, ALUMINUM, GALVANIZED, AND FIBERGLASS WHEREAS OTHER SEALERS WILL NOT WORK ON SOME OF THESE METALS. IT IS NOT A MOISTURE CURED URETHANE PAINT THAT IS SOLD BY ONE U.S. COMPANY AS A GAS TANK SEALER. THEIR OWN ADVERTISING TELLS YOU THAT IT IS MOISTURE CURED AND THAT ONCE YOU OPEN THE CAN YOU CANNOT RE-USE IT. THIS TYPE OF SEALER, USUALLY A LIGHT GRAY OR SILVER, WILL NOT STICK TO THE INTERIOR SURFACE OF MOST TANKS FOR VERY LONG AND GENERALLY 6-12 MONTHS LATER, WILL BREAK AWAY FROM THE INSIDE OF THE TANK AND WILL TURN INTO A FLOATING PLASTIC BAG INSIDE OF THE TANK. THAT TYPE OF ITEM WHILE BEING RESISTANT TO ALCOHOL WAS NEVER INTENDED TO BE A TANK SEALER AND SHOULD NEVER BE USED IN A FUEL TANK.

BTW, it's not cheap! A pint cost me $24.00 with shipping. Ask for GTS-04 Pint.  Good luck!

[Noel]

So has anyone here been using either A)the AirTech tank -- with or without liner -- on the street, or B)the GTS-04 liner mentioned above?

I'd really like to use an aluminum CR style tank, but no one seems to making one for the 500. AirTech is the only game in town, as far as  can tell, but I don't want to throw away money on something that will be leaking in six months.

[bill440cars]

So has anyone here been using either A)the AirTech tank -- with or without liner -- on the street, or B)the GTS-04 liner mentioned above?

I'd really like to use an aluminum CR style tank, but no one seems to making one for the 500. AirTech is the only game in town, as far as  can tell, but I don't want to throw away money on something that will be leaking in six months.

    Have you seen the tanks that Greg (ohiocaferacers.com) is putting out? Check em out.
                                                 Later on, Bill

[Noel]

Yeah, and they're very cool, but I already tried. He has no firm plans to make one for the 500.

[bill440cars]

Yeah, and they're very cool, but I already tried. He has no firm plans to make one for the 500.

                             Sorry about that, I remember him saying that he thought about doing one for the
                450 but, I wasn't sure about the 500. Hey, it was worth a shot. If enough people showed
                interest, he might end up doing it. But, I know it would have to be worthwhile though.
                                                                 Later on, Bill

[Noel]

Okay everyone, start sending Greg emails about making a tank for your 500. Even if you don't actually have a 500. 

[ohiocaferacer]

...okay guys.....I just got 2000 emails in 30 mins??? Just kidd'n!!

I really wish I had the time and money to work on the projects i'd like to hammer out....it really is a blast to take a 4'x8' piece of flat sheet aluminum and after some work you have this awesome tank. I really enjoy doing it. Also.....this is my part time hobby, so after putting in the hours at the office and trying to finish my commercial pilots license. I come home and pound some metal in the shop.....until the my other half start complaining we arent spending quality time together. Which usually means I need to take her out for dinner or help clean the house(see how you learn wife language after awhile)....then were good for another couple nights.

Some of the tanks i'm wanting to get worked/hammered out are:

1. The CB350 twin GP tank to fit the CB350/400 inline fours. Actually, getting close to finishing the first one. Had to rework the tunnel area and its looking real good.

2. Adapt the CB350 twin tank to fit the CB450 twins. This is gonna take a little work due to the front mounting position being alot further forward than the 350 twin.

3. Get my hands on an alloy CR750 tank to get some templates made, to build the 750 tank and to retro-fit it for the CB500/550 inline fours.

Here is a pic from Terry Naughtins website http://teamhansenhonda.com of a CB550 with the CR750 tank and seat pan....looks GOOD!!




I promise to keep everyone informed of the progress of the tanks,
Greg

[Noel]

Hell, your wife wants to spend more time with you? Give her a rawhide mallet and teach her to make tanks, dammit! 

Those pics are interesting. I was under the impression that the 750 tank wouldn't come anywhere near fitting the 500/550.

[ohiocaferacer]

Give her a rawhide mallet and teach her to make tanks, dammit! 

What.....do you think i'm crazy!!!

You think i'm gonna let her know I have hammers and other potential weapons in the garage, that could be used against me? For all she knows.....I beat those tanks out...just using my fists. LOL!!! Just kidd'n! Hell....she could probadly do a better job than me.

Gotta run.....off to the AMA museum for the Classic Japanese motorcycle day bike show and swap meet....have a good one,
Greg