Topic: Any Plumbers? -- Need advice on a Long Run to New Washer and Dryer

[vames]

I'm installing a new Bosch Axxis stacked washer and ventless dryer this weekend and would welcome any advice for the materials I use to plumb it. 220 line is already professionally run. Plumbing (Hot, Cold, Washer and dryer waste drains) will be run about 15' through a 6" hollow between the wall and the cabinets to the kitchen sink supply and drain. I'm trying to figure out the best materials to use to make sure this thing doesn't leak. I already have two available standard hose bibs with hot and cold under the kitchen sink, but could change those to accomodate compression fittings.

My options as I see them, and a crappy drawing, below. Please let me know if anybody has any opinions on what materials would work best. Not as interested in meeting code as much as I'm interested in having a nice hookup that won't leak.

Hot and Cold Supply(Run between the back of the cabinet and the wall) 
* 1/2" Copper tubing run from the sink supply to hose bibs near the Washer--Flex line between hose bibs and Washer.
* 1/2" PVC run from sink to hose bibs near the Washer--Flex line between hose bibs and Washer.
* Industrial garden hose run direct from existing hose bibs

Drain (Run between back of cabinet and the wall)

* 1" rigid PVC run behind the cabinets (L at the right angle corner). Runs at a modest downward slope to the sink drain. Attaches to a 3" verticle PVC standpipe (2 feet) that is between the washer and the cabinet and that both the washer and dryer waste drain into.
* 1" PVC or rubber hose that runs behind the cabinets at a modest downward slope to the sink drain. Y near the Washer and dryer that the waste lines hook into (with hose clamps).

[domer]

while any plumber will try and sell you on nice copper plumbing, i'd save the time and the money and get yourself standard washer supply lines (flex) ive seen em as long as 25' and when installed properly (hand tight only) will last for many leak free years. that'll save you a couple hours work and a few bucks to boot. standard hose bibs are perfect.

A 1" drain will not cut it. go with 2" all the way around. the stand pipe should be about 1" above the washer and at least 18" in total length . you will need a ptrap, i have to check as to where it needs to be though as i havent done an install like this... also need 1/4" or more of drop per foot of drain pipe. and dont forget to use a sanitary tee where ever you are tapping into the existing plumbing...
one thing you are not going to want to hear, i would never install a washer drain attached to the same drain as the kitchen sink, no matter how hard we may or may not try, grease gets down the drain. mix that with lint from a washer/dryer combo and you become a cash cow for your local drain cleaner. that being said, you may not have a choice 

ill try and find out about the location of the ptrap, pm me if you have any q's.... i may not be checking this site much today, but ill get the pm 

[domer]

as i had thought, install the p-trap at the bottom of your stand pipe...

[vames]

Many many thanks. All points well taken, except I can't find washer supply lines more than 72". Do I connect a few together, go with a single industrial garden hose for the run, or go with copper?

Also -- yep, the kitchen drain is the only drain I have and I'll have to become an expert on constant drain health monitoring.

Thanks again.

[BeSeeingYou]

I always like to use a long bend 90 elbow when changing direction on a horizontal drain line.  You can also find the flexible supply hoses with built in shut off valves that shut down the flow if a major leak develops.  Good advice from domer.

I have not seen longer supply hoses but maybe it's something that will have to be special ordered.   If you are comfortable sweating copper fittings that would be an option and the run is not that long so it's not a big $$$ expense.  It's more about how accessible the space is to put them in place.  If you have a basement underneath how about coming up through the floor behind the washer/dryer.  That's my preference instead of long horizontal runs inside walls.  There is the new plastic pex stuff but for this short run I am not sure it's worth the tool cost and the transition.

[vames]

I should have plenty of room for a long bend elbo so will definitely look for one of those. Thanks

The built-in shut off valves sound like a dream -- but I've read terrible things about the Watts Floodsafe -- a lot of people have reported that they are cheaply made and often break upstream from the valve, leading to catastrphic flooding. I wonder if there are any other makers of such valves.

[domer]

i totally forgot about pex... only used it once before it became illegal in ca. if you can find it, its great #$%*, doubt its legit in ny though... the only special tool you really need is for disassembly... other than that you just have to be able to cut the ends of the tubing perfectly square and the push right into the connectors. look it up they might have some around you, and it would beat the hose idea!

[BeSeeingYou]

The plastic stuff I was thinking about uses a crimping tool to put the fittings on.  Have not used it but my parents just had their whole house re-plumbed with it after they had a water leak that made a mess of the finished basement.  I remember seeing that push in type of plastic fittings but this is different.  

[domer]

ya, the pex fittings i used was all push in ... did my sisters place with it. 4 years leak free, and it was the fastest whole house job i have ever seen. about 4 hours removing all the old crap, and about 2-3 installing all the pex. i loved it, but forgot about it when ca made it a no no in the building code.  i think the co. that made the fittings was shark or something of the sort...

[Duke McDukiedook]

damn when did they ban pex?

[CBGhia]

Aqua Pex or even regular Pex are both legal for use on "non potable" water.  Using it for a washing machine should be fine.  I think Pex is probably the way to go, cheap and easy and it has good reviews.  I am planning on moving my laundry area to a section of my garage that i have walled off. and I will be using Pex.  Aqua Pex is the drinking water safe stuff, I believe, but not legal in NY yet. 

[Brown Bomber]

Many many thanks. All points well taken, except I can't find washer supply lines more than 72". Do I connect a few together, go with a single industrial garden hose for the run, or go with copper?

Also -- yep, the kitchen drain is the only drain I have and I'll have to become an expert on constant drain health monitoring.

Thanks again.

     While any kind of flexible hose can be leak free, it will not last anywhere near as long as copper, and it will fail while you are out of town, I promise.
     Copper is the way to go, I saw quite a few homes in Florida get flooded because the snowbirds would forget to shut off the water to the washer before heading back north for the summer.

[domer]

pex in CA became illegal about the same time romex did. people still use both, but its not to code.

[vames]

I've seen PEX in Home Despot around here. To tell the truth, the idea of plastic in pushed-in connectors makes me a little nervous, but perhaps its the way to go. I'll look at what fittings they offer with it and see if it can work with me.

Thanks all for the help.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Pex would probably be the easiest route once you get the crimper, if it is not to code it could become a sticky point when you try to sell.

[vames]

Just read up on PEX and it seems incredibly simple to work with and cost effective. Hopefully they'll have the right fittings I need at HD or Lowes. Code isn't important -- it's a rental and has dozens of safe, but non-code work in the house that the landlord has done over the years. I'll be uninstalling anyway if I ever move.

[mark]

I was watching one of the fix-up shows a while back and the guys were all excited about some push type solderless fittings for copper pipe. Ordinary compression fittings are probably a fair bit cheaper and also a valid alternative to soldering.