Topic: Just Brought My New Bike Home

[NewOldSchool]

So as of today I am the new owner of a fairly clean 1974 CB750, 16,600 miles and only minor things to sort out before it's a nice runner. I know the carbs need to be synced and I plan on doing a full service on the motor as well as replacing the points with a Dyna-S ignition system. Are there any other things I should look out for? I'll post pics tomorrow!

[Stev-o]

First off, welcome and congrats!

If it's been sitting [or has in the past] the carbs may need a good cleaning. Why do you think they need to be synced? A full "3000 mile tuneup" may be in order as well, that way you'll know where you stand.
And how old are the tires? If past 5 yrs, I would start shopping.

Good Luck!

[OldSchool_IsCool]

you mean... I'm being REPLACED?? 

[Stev-o]

you mean... I'm being REPLACED?? 

Or change your handle to oldoldskool!

[NewOldSchool]

Hahah I've had this handle for a very long time I always use it! Anywho, the guy I just bought it from claims the bike sat in a garage for 7 years before he bought it. It has a brand new front and nearly new rear tire and the forks and front brake have been completely rebuilt. He says the front wheel and steering stem bearings are new and the carbs were removed and cleaned out too. He also said he did not sync them after doing so. The bike starts fine but is extremely cold blooded and will not idle without holding the throttle at around 2000rpm until warm. After that it will idle ok, but roughly and will start first kick.

[Duke McDukiedook]

That sounds like a normal bike for it's age, you gotta goose the throttle a little on all my old bikes before they warm up.

So new tires as in the stubble is still on them and the manufacture date code confirms as such?

[GammaFlat]

Before you go dyna-s, consider the HondaMan ignition.  See the for sale section.  It's cheaper than Dyna-S and uses less power (important), and and and.   

Even if the tires look new, check their date (on the tire).  The calendar age of a tire is important to note.  If several years old, consider getting new ones. 

We really need pictures

Don't fret if it burns oil for a while.  If it hasn't run much recently, it may take some miles to get back in the groove.

[NewOldSchool]

Front is a brand new Michelin Piolot Activ and the rear is a 3 year old Dunlop 66V. Its missing the rear "bumper" that the signals mount to as well as the front signals. The exhaust appears to be a MAC 2 into 2 or similar and the front caliper has been stripped of paint. Aside from that it looks great.

[NewOldSchool]

SO for now I plan on replacing the oil, fresh plugs, gap the points, and sync the carbs to get it running and idling nicely. Also the clutch engages with only the last 1/4 inch of lever travel which will take some getting used to. Is this normal or is there a way I can adjust the engagement point?

[faux fiddy]

Some say to adjust the valves and timing chain before the carbs sync.

Beautiful bike!

[Don R]

lookin good! If you want signals (winkers) they are around and the wires usually just plug back in to the harness.

[Johnie]

So what is it that previous owners don't like about front and back blinkers? Nice looking bike there.

[Nortstudio]

Beautiful bike! 

+1 on the 3000 mile tune-up (cam-chain, valve clearance, timing, full clean & sync of the carbs) .  Let's you know where you stand, and if/when you have an issue (especially when you seek help here - it will be the first thing the 'old schoolers' will ask), you will be that much more informed about how healthy the bike is.

[tango911]

thats awesome!  i love seeing these nice clean bikes, cant wait to get mine put back together.

[ekpent]

WELCOME.  Good looking machine. One thing I noticed so far is that your fork ears look to be replaced from a 72,notice that you do not have the holes in side to mount the front blinkers.You will have to shop for K0-2 for the blinker - stem combo that mounts where the headlight bucket bolt is. Front fender is probably a supersport model.The red was used on the 75-76.Petcock on the left would be a 75-76 tank. Always a good idea to check your serial numbers on the engine and frame on these old girls to see their actual mfg date,lotta swapping on them. Enjoy your ride its a nice one.   Eric.

[NewOldSchool]

Thanks for all the info! I plan on doing the full service within the next few days and slowly bring the bike back to factory stock condition as time and my wallet allow. For now its a nice classic bike to maintain and ride!

[ekpent]

Are you down in Florida? Looks nice and warm and green. Sigh as I look out my window here in Mi 

[kck3]

The paint looks amazing for the age of the bike.  Nice score.

[Stev-o]

Looks very nice. Mind if we ask how much you paid?

Only negative I see is a poor copy of a seat cover that he put on, but that may not bother you [I woulld have to have "Honda" on a stocker bike].

Congrats!

[Popwood]

Very nice lookin' ride, and welcome to the forum. Always start with a basic tune-up to establish a base line of where you're at. And besides, as mentioned earlier, that always precedes a carb sync.

[madmtnmotors]

One other item that you may consider is connecting overflow tubes to the bottom of the carbs. If the fuel level rises above the correct height (worn or stuck float valves, leaky seam on a brass float, etc.) and the carbs overflow, the excess fuel is dispensed out those little nipples on the bottom of the bowls. Those overflow tubes (stock) are routed behind the engine, down through a metal bracket with a wide oval opening on the back of the engine so this excess fuel falls to the ground behind the center stand, intead of dumping it onto a hot engine. Unless you intend to try your hand at impersonating Nicholas Cage in "Ghost Rider".

Very nice looking ride, seems well kept. I'm surprised a PO felt compelled to remove those overflow tubes.

[NewOldSchool]

No problem I paid 3100. So far I've adjusted the valves, timed it and adjusted the came chain. I had to order an oil and air filter online becuase no one had them in stock so that's next. A local shop quoted 35 bucks to sync the carbs.

[dave500]

thirty five bucks?to sync the carbs?,so it only takes fifteen minutes?

[lrutt]

I don't understand why you'd jump to replacing the points. There is nothing wrong with the points setup. They work just fine and have been for many years on these bikes. And points will ALWAYS get you home. Can't say that for electronics.

Otherwise, nice looking bike. Extremely clean but strange they dumped the rear grab bar.

[Sam Green Racing]

No problem I paid 3100. So far I've adjusted the valves, timed it and adjusted the came chain. I had to order an oil and air filter online becuase no one had them in stock so that's next. A local shop quoted 35 bucks to sync the carbs.

I wouldn't have paid £2,000 for it seeing that it hasn't got a proper cam chain.

No problem I paid 3100. and adjusted the came chain

Perhaps it's one of theme Acme came chains.

To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't risk riding it if I were you....send it to me and I'll have it put down for you.

Enjoy your ride mate and be safe.

Sam.

[Johnie]

If you are going OEM with the bike you will need the grab bar as that is what the rear blinkers mount too. I have included a pic of what the grab bar and the front fork ears as mentioned by ekpent. Note the only difference on your 1972 ears is the hole in the center which is where the blinker studs mount. My fork ears pictured are no longer available from Honda. They are difficult to find in undented condition, but check eBay or maybe someone on the board might have a set.

[Duanob]

Very sweet bike! Interested to know what part of the country or world you got it. $3100 seems fair for as clean as it is. You can dump a lot more than that in a "fixer".

Dave500 I got a quote for $40 here in seattle, 1/2 hour charge. I figure if I can buy a gauge set up for $20 more I might as well...........someday 

[DH]

Nice K5. If you get a grab rail and want to be as original, get one specifically for a k5 or k6. The larger, newer style turn sigs for a k5-6 have a little different style mountings that match the k5-6 rail.
The mounting stems for the k3-4 will work best with the k3-4 rail.
Only diff between the two rails is hole size for the sig mounts, and that dictates which style sigs you can use and their matching hardware. With the correct headlite ears tho, you can use either style front sigs/stems, k3/4 skinny style, OR the k5/6 fatter style.
Went thru same scenerio with my k5, as previous owner had installed a padded sissy bar that also employed the rear sigs.
The bumper was long gone. There seem to be a lot of them on ebay.
NOS are just about non existant. Love the flake apricot red. Used to have one just like it.

[NewOldSchool]

I definitely plan on replacing the rear grab bar and yes you're just jealous of my Came chain haha 

[Hush]

Nice score mate, shame the makers of those muffler systems don't tilt them upward a bit, was my bike I'd be scrapping the chrome off them on the first fast corner.

[NewOldSchool]

Ive run into my 1st problem. I can't for the life of me remove the cylinder #2 spark plug. The 18mm socket will not fit down over the plug, a 19mm did and its too big so I don't know why this isn't working? Ive already removed and and replaced the other 3 with fresh NGK D8EA's gaped at .026.

[kck3]

Try using a thin-walled, deep 18mm socket-it should get the plug out for you.

[Stev-o]

Try using a thin-walled, deep 18mm socket-it should get the plug out for you.

...available from Honda

[kck3]

Try using a thin-walled, deep 18mm socket-it should get the plug out for you.

...available from Honda

...and Sears-thats where I got mine.  I didn't want to wait for shipping or run down to the dealer to see if they had one.  Swung by Sears and had the plugs out in no time.

[NewOldSchool]

Try using a thin-walled, deep 18mm socket-it should get the plug out for you.

...available from Honda

That's what I figured was that the 18mm I had was too thick. So I went down to see my mechanic buddy at the local dealer and he showed me an 18mm he had machined down to half its original thickness. He said Honda generally has always had tight clearance around the plugs even on modern dirt bikes. My friend is a machinist so I'll have him turn my deep socket down on his lathe and problem solved.

[Stev-o]

Try using a thin-walled, deep 18mm socket-it should get the plug out for you.

...available from Honda

That's what I figured was that the 18mm I had was too thick. So I went down to see my mechanic buddy at the local dealer and he showed me an 18mm he had machined down to half its original thickness. He said Honda generally has always had tight clearance around the plugs even on modern dirt bikes. My friend is a machinist so I'll have him turn my deep socket down on his lathe and problem solved.

Perfect!

[lrutt]

The socket in the original tool kits works the trick, if you have it. I still use that to this day on my 750's but granted I can't remember the last time I had to change plugs out.

[Stev-o]

The socket in the original tool kits works the trick, if you have it. I still use that to this day on my 750's but granted I can't remember the last time I had to change plugs out.

I hate to change the plugs in all your bikes!