Author Topic: removing front chain sprocket cb550 (Read 8456 times)

paulages · « **on:** March 22, 2006, 10:13:01 PM »

can't figure it out, can't find the procedure in any of the manuals. i removed the two bolts and the plate on the front of it...now what?

TwoTired · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:06:46 AM »

The front sprocket should slide off the splines. They usually "float" on the splines. At least, the ones in service do.

Is yours rusted on? Or, chain lube glue? Try solvent.

Cheers,

bill440cars · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2006, 05:40:05 AM »

TwoTired said it all.

cb(r) · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2006, 06:30:37 AM »

first do what twotired said

On the other hand I hate to belittle you but the plate in front is also splined and sits in a groove and needs to be turned to align up the splines so you can pull it off.

the other rare possiblity. the plate could be damaged or the spline could have a slight peen mark for various reasons you might need to file down the excess material.

paulages · « **Reply #4 on:** March 23, 2006, 10:07:54 AM »

the plate is long gone, but i can't get the sprocket to budge.

i've put solvent on it ,pryed it (gently..don't want to put a hole in the case...), stared at it

but figured i was just missing something obvious.

crazypj · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2006, 10:47:22 AM »

does the sprocket rotate at all on the shft? It should. If not its probably rusted into position. If it does there may be wear/burrs holding it on and its going to take some careful work with hammers/ prybars and drifts to get it off
PJ

TwoTired · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2006, 10:53:34 AM »

To avoid stress on the cases, you could try a gear puller, pulley puller, or even a steering wheel puller if you got some longer bolts to go into the holes in the sproket.

Penetrating oil or mineral spirits on the sprocket shaft.

Cheers,

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2006, 10:56:58 AM »

Unless the 550 is different, even with the plate bolted in place, there should be some very slight lateral movement of the sprocket on the shaft. Any chance you can get a good close-up pic of what you're dealing with and post it?

crazypj · « **Reply #8 on:** March 23, 2006, 11:01:59 AM »

Quote from: TwoTired on March 23, 2006, 10:53:34 AM

To avoid stress on the cases, you could try a gear puller, pulley puller, or even a steering wheel puller if you got some longer bolts to go into the holes in the sproket.

Penetrating oil or mineral spirits on the sprocket shaft.

Cheers,

Sometimes the simple things elude me
PJ

paulages · « **Reply #9 on:** March 23, 2006, 12:20:45 PM »

i have a gear puller i was gonna try next if i can find it. i did pry gently, but i was worried about damaging the cases. it doesn't budge in any direction. if i can remember to take my camera down there, i'll take a picture.

crazypj · « **Reply #10 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:17:55 PM »

Get a piece of pipe that fits over shaft and give it a whack with hammer. You have to get it a bit loose first
PJ

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #11 on:** March 23, 2006, 02:36:31 PM »

Or, if you don't have the right diameter pipe handy, something to use as a drift. Pound around the sprocket a couple of times near the spline, using some good penetrating oil in the gap, then try the puller. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

TwoTired · « **Reply #12 on:** March 23, 2006, 04:11:51 PM »

Uh guys, banging on a sprocket that's stuck on the output shaft will just transfer all that stress and shock to the output shaft, the bearing, the engine case, and probably some other bits inside of unknown resistance to shock loads of that type.

With a puller, stress only between shaft and sprocket.

Oh bliss... ?

$:-\$

Cheers,

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #13 on:** March 23, 2006, 04:36:22 PM »

Good point.. even with the "Uh."

bill440cars · « **Reply #14 on:** March 23, 2006, 05:09:48 PM »

My puller use goes like this> 1st I install the puller, then I put tension on it, Tap on the head
on the puller main screw, snug it down some more, tap on it again and so on until it breaks loose.
(and by tap, I don't mean lightlybut, "pound" makes me think of "damage") Works for me

Later on, Bill

cb(r) · « **Reply #15 on:** March 24, 2006, 04:51:18 AM »

Quote from: bill440cars on March 23, 2006, 05:09:48 PM

My puller use goes like this> 1st I install the puller, then I put tension on it, Tap on the head
on the puller main screw, snug it down some more, tap on it again and so on until it breaks loose.
(and by tap, I don't mean lightlybut, "pound" makes me think of "damage") Works for me

Later on, Bill

what him said.

pwright · « **Reply #16 on:** March 24, 2006, 05:26:16 AM »

I also use this method. In the worst cases (like getting a rotor off my old CR125 Elsinore which took hours and hours and hours...) I use a bit of heat around the offending part with a propane torch. I usually put the puller on to get some tension on it, using the tapping method that Bill suggested, and then heat the outer part of whatever I'm trying to get off. Some people don't agree with localized heating like this, but I think of it this way: I'd rather heat a part that's part of an engine that gets hot than bash on a part that will transfer that shock to the rest of the components... like TwoTired said...

Also, I find that if a bit of heat doesn't work, I don't just keep adding heat, as it will conduct fairly quickly to the shaft thus causing it to expand with the gear and negating the whole purpose of the effort. I'll let it cool down and repeat the process later.

bill440cars · « **Reply #17 on:** March 24, 2006, 05:30:18 AM »

That's true, I have had to go that route (with some heat) also. Good point!
Later on, Bill

cb(r) · « **Reply #18 on:** March 24, 2006, 06:44:18 AM »

did you rule out the fact that there is no burrs or peen marks or an irregularities on the spocket or shaft?

crazypj · « **Reply #19 on:** March 24, 2006, 11:47:18 AM »

HI Two Tired,
point taken, didnt mean hard enough to brinnell bearings forget not everyone has same background
PJ

Quote from: TwoTired on March 23, 2006, 04:11:51 PM

Uh guys, banging on a sprocket that's stuck on the output shaft will just transfer all that stress and shock to the output shaft, the bearing, the engine case, and probably some other bits inside of unknown resistance to shock loads of that type.

With a puller, stress only between shaft and sprocket.

Oh bliss... ?

$:-\$

Cheers,

crazypj · « **Reply #20 on:** March 24, 2006, 11:52:14 AM »

Really , really good method for getting generator rotors off is to put engine/crank in a freezer overnight with the puller attached. take it out in AM or whenever, tighten puller down then pour some hot/ boiling water over/into generator. Pops right off without any chance of damage to magnets or coils which I've seen happen using heat.
PJ

Quote from: pwright on March 24, 2006, 05:26:16 AM

I also use this method. In the worst cases (like getting a rotor off my old CR125 Elsinore which took hours and hours and hours...) I use a bit of heat around the offending part with a propane torch. I usually put the puller on to get some tension on it, using the tapping method that Bill suggested, and then heat the outer part of whatever I'm trying to get off. Some people don't agree with localized heating like this, but I think of it this way: I'd rather heat a part that's part of an engine that gets hot than bash on a part that will transfer that shock to the rest of the components... like TwoTired said...

Also, I find that if a bit of heat doesn't work, I don't just keep adding heat, as it will conduct fairly quickly to the shaft thus causing it to expand with the gear and negating the whole purpose of the effort. I'll let it cool down and repeat the process later.

pwright · « **Reply #21 on:** March 24, 2006, 12:14:28 PM »

PJ,

Good suggestion on the freezer trick. However, I think it requires a more understanding wife than I have... I can just see it now...

"what the $#*( is this thing doing in the freezer??"

That said, I'm inclined to try it the next time I have a problem...

TwoTired · « **Reply #22 on:** March 24, 2006, 12:45:42 PM »

Quote from: pwright on March 24, 2006, 12:14:28 PM

Good suggestion on the freezer trick. However, I think it requires a more understanding wife than I have... I can just see it now...

"what the $#*( is this thing doing in the freezer??"

That said, I'm inclined to try it the next time I have a problem...

Well, just put it all inside a plastic bag while in the freezer. It won't be contaminated with food residue, that way.

Conflict avoidance might be achieved by using an opaque plastic bag. If she asks about the contents, just tell her its remnants from a previous unresolved intimate encounter. There should be, at least, a short respite in dialog...
After that, the temporary presence of a motorcycle part, should be much more tolerable. Perhaps even welcomed.

Happily married 31 years.

Cheers,

paulages · « **Reply #23 on:** March 24, 2006, 02:21:12 PM »

i haven't had a chance to get back at it yet, but my initial question was to rule out the possibility that i was ignoring something terrible obvious. don't wanna go banging, heating, OR pulling away if all i was supposed to do was rub a magic lamp or talk nice to it or use honda special tool #30098798799 or whatever...

i will be back with results though.

paulages · « **Reply #24 on:** March 27, 2006, 11:39:03 AM »

i still haven't had a chance to get back at it (too many other things to do), but here's the picture i promised.

shows you which part of the engine i didn't clean up, eh?

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Author Topic: removing front chain sprocket cb550 (Read 8456 times)