Topic: striped oil filter bolt

[wicat]

Hey guys ive been trying to remove my motor to do an overhall on it and well i figured out i need to get the oil filter off to get the motor out.  The bolt head was stripped i tried a wrench, socket, vise grips, Pump pliers you name it i tryed it.  So not seeing a way of getting the bolt head to work i grinded down the head and attempted to grind and cut the washer around the oil filter casing.  My question is if i cut a square around the bolt and remove the cover then then pull the bolt out will that work?  if not what can i do to get the filter out with out totally effing my motor?

[Flying J]

HEllo and welcome.
Usually what happens is the oil filter nut welds itself to the oil filter housing. I have cut the oil filter off to find that the oil bolt is hand tight. So what ever you do try some penetrating spray and maybe a little heat from a propane torch. I have also welded on a big hex cap screw and used that. But i did not find out all this information on my own. I USED THE SEARCH FUNCTION. 

[Alan F.]

Be sure to have someone sitting on the bike with their feet flat on the floor when you go back to try and crack it loose. The bike can easily be dropped on its right side when enough torque is applied.  When reassembling the filter, put a dab of anti-seize compound under the head of the filter bolt, and maybe a little on the threads too.
Alan

[MCRider]

yes this has been covered many times here, but I don't mind recurring issues as we may all learn again and possibbly better.

As mentioned it is likely the head of the bolt to the filter housing where the stick is. So you can grind that off, remove the cover, and the rest of the bolt should come out easily.

This item is one of many i class as "squishable". The drain bolts, tappet caps, spark plugs, and this bolt, should be tightened snug, then a slight bit more, to squish the Oring or crush washer they have. Why people crank on these ill never know. Tighten down to snug, then squish and stop. If it leaks, squish a bit more. Anti seize couldn't hurt.

[ekpent]

You should have hammered an 11mm socket on the end of the mutilated 12mm. Works everytime,have had to do it many times with "new" projects.Little heat doesn't hurt either.Gotta love those good 17mm bolts when you see them.

[Hoosier Tom]

On my 550 the 12mm head was so mutilated from POs I couldn't get a 11mm to snug in.  I tried everything.  I finally used a hole saw on my drill and sacrificed the housing to get it off.  Once that was done the bolt loosened with my fingers.  It must have been under a lot of tension.  I now have a 17mm bolt on.

[Flying J]

I dont think its the tension that holds the bolt on so tight. I think its the wide head that get stuck to the housing.

[camelman]

I agree with the head getting stuck.  Aluminum (cover), steel (bolt), and anything even resembling salt will create a "glue" between the metals.  you've probably run across this before with aluminum rims on a car before.  Anyway, prevention is best left to anti-seize.  I've removed a number of these by cutting flats onto either side of the bolt and using a big-a$$ monkey wrench to remove it.  I haven't lost the battle yet with this method, and I think I'm ten bolts deep now.

Camelman

[Alan F.]

Anyone ever try a big nylon washer (or some other material that may not melt) under the head of the filter bolt?
Alan

[GRock]

Anyone ever try a big nylon washer (or some other material that may not melt) under the head of the filter bolt?

Alan! That's a great idea! I'm surprised no one commented on that. Did you try it? Did it work?
Greg

[Gaither]

FWIW - This works!

Soak the head to housing with a 50/50 ATF & Acetone mix for "a while".

Then, IF you can get a socket on the bolt, mate it to your air impact wrench, turn the wrench adjustment all the way DOWN to its  LOWEST POSITION and be very patient(booringly patient). The impact wrench will slowly "tap" the bolt free with no damage. I know of a guy who successfully did this.

I used this method to remove a frozen spark plug from an expensive 4.6 Ford OHC V/8 aluminum cyl head. Had I persisted with the 1/2" breaker bar, I would have certainly stripped the threads in the head (common occurance).

Best to try this  BEFORE you bogger the bolt head.

Try in - you'll like it.

[Nortstudio]

I dont think its the tension that holds the bolt on so tight. I think its the wide head that get stuck to the housing.

I Think you guys have it all wrong. The bolt/washer gets stuck to the filter housing because the devil (having taken possession of the PO) blows a little kiss in the direction of the engine. The heat contained in this pleasant form of affection, fuses the bolt right to the damn aluminum!

[Holubs]

My next door neighbor used to overtighten the oil filter bolt on his old Gold Wing.  He would get it so tight he had to weld an old 11mm wrench on the bolt to get it out.  Then he would buy a new bolt with each oil change. 

Neverr could convince him that he didn't need to crank the new bolt in so tight.

Holubs

[strynboen]

hey yes weld somthing on bolt head..or drill the head off

[vames]

Once you do get it off, replace it with one of these and don't tighten it too much (maybe also smear some anti-seize between the washer and the housing too).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330515916273

[thehammer]

for the $50.00 is costs for an oem filter bolt you can get a junk motor with a perfectly good bolt.

[jakecb420]

this is a handy set of sockets to have. i have used them a few times working on cars. hammer it on and loosen as usual.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P

[vames]

s

for the $50.00 is costs for an oem filter bolt you can get a junk motor with a perfectly good bolt.

I think it'd be hard to find an original that isn't stripped, but more power to you if you can. Aftermarket bolts with a nice big 17mm head can be had for less than $20, and work great. Some things require OEM -- but I'm not sure this is one of them.