Author Topic: '76 750F rear caliper - couldn't extract the broken bleeder. What now? (Read 7792 times)

Tugboat · « **on:** January 25, 2011, 04:48:56 PM »

Just bought some new brake lines from @pampadori. The old ones are literally falling apart. Went to bleed out the rear caliper and couldn't find the bleeder valve. I guess this was it? Anything I can do here, or do I need to replace it?

guitarkev66 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 25, 2011, 06:56:12 PM »

I would try to drill it carefully and try and easyout bit after soaking it with lots of penetraiting oil spray

ofreen · « **Reply #2 on:** January 25, 2011, 07:06:09 PM »

Your bleeder screw is broken off. If you can get the remnant out, you can replace it. Heat, penetrating oil, and patience are your best bet. I like PB Blaster.

Stev-o · « **Reply #3 on:** January 25, 2011, 07:10:39 PM »

Good luck, that will be tough. Try the above suggestions but I would start looking for a replacement.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #4 on:** January 25, 2011, 08:49:08 PM »

I now know of 2 of you in a similar predicament. You're better off at this point than the other guy. He tried drilling and now he's looking for another caliper. He may have a tough find. I'd use a lot of patience or a machine shop. 2 of those to come up with at the same time is not going to be good. I have a stainless steel Speed Bleeder in mine now

Their info can be found in the chart in Brake FAQ. Good investment. They make bleeding speedy and easy.

scottly · « **Reply #5 on:** January 25, 2011, 09:03:43 PM »

I recall seeing a repair kit for bleeders on the forums recently. It was a brass seat, with the bleeder threaded in. The idea is to drill out the hole in the caliper and tap (tapered pipe thread?) to fit the replacement seat/bleeder. Not sure if there is enough meat around the broken bleeder on your caliper to drill/tap to the required size...??

bryanj · « **Reply #6 on:** January 25, 2011, 10:52:28 PM »

try reading

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=13965.0

Tugboat · « **Reply #7 on:** January 26, 2011, 08:27:25 AM »

I'd definitely have to go to a machine shop to do any drilling. I may try some PB Blaster & an easy-out if I have one that'll fit. But for the money and effort it would take maybe I'd be better off just replacing it altogether? I think I read somewhere on here that Golwing calipers were the same as the 750F's - is that right?

gty2k2000 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 26, 2011, 09:24:24 AM »

dear god your right where i was sunday night. ok go to the tool store harbour freight has a set of extractors for like 10 dollars. drill the hole very shallow and use pb blaster once the hole is big enough use and extractor and hope fully it will come out. i as well have a 1976 honda cb750F1 supersport. good luck man let me know on your progress use a torch man its your best freind. and take you time and be carefull!

Toxic · « **Reply #9 on:** January 26, 2011, 09:49:19 AM »

Heat around the area but not on the bleeder. Now here is the trick that works for me. I use a heat gun on high. Then after turning it off, take a can of pressurized air, the stuff you use to clean camera equipement and blow it on the metal bleeder. It's amazing how cold the air comes out. Do that for 30 or 45 sec then put the screw extractor in, give it a solid whack with a hammer to set the teeth.

And if that doesn't do it ... stop before you bugger it up beyond all repair and take it to a machine shop.

I wouldn't use the compressed air with an open flame, that might be alittle volitile.

bollingball · « **Reply #10 on:** January 26, 2011, 04:48:51 PM »

You realy want to get it cold turn the can up side down

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #11 on:** January 26, 2011, 06:45:12 PM »

Quote from: Tugboat on January 26, 2011, 08:27:25 AM

I'd definitely have to go to a machine shop to do any drilling. I may try some PB Blaster & an easy-out if I have one that'll fit. But for the money and effort it would take maybe I'd be better off just replacing it altogether? I think I read somewhere on here that Golwing calipers were the same as the 750F's - is that right?

may be close but the numbers do not match up. Could be that the 75/76 F has a "stop" for the brake hose where it connects to keep it from rotating. I have some of each.

Tugboat · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2011, 08:22:01 AM »

So I went for it last night. MidTNJasonF brought me a heat gun the other night, so after soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days, I heated the caliper a good bit, then hit it with some canned air to cool off the screw, then tapped the "best sized" easy-out into it, clamped on some vice grips and gave it a go.. No dice. Tried a couple of different size extractors too and they didn't work. I don't think there was enough of it there to work with.. so much for Plan A.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2011, 10:44:47 AM »

The GW calipers are not the same. They mount on the other side. The GW rear master cylinder of the early years will work.

jaguar · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2011, 07:08:04 AM »

you need heat.

heat the hell out of the area around the broken part.
im not a big fan of the sears ez outs that look like drills.
I like the ones that are stubby and fit into a socket.

gty2k2000 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2011, 12:27:02 PM »

go on ebay i found one through a fellow member on here that sent me one but i was on ebay last night and saw one a replacment caliper for sale on ebay search it out and get that badboy befor its gone

TwoTired · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2011, 01:28:31 PM »

I don't believe an easy out has ever worked on a broken brake bleeder. In fact, I think that's bad advice in this case.

I have drilled them out and saved the threads for the original bleeder replacement. But, it is careful precision work.

You know, you can bleed the system without the bleeder. You just need the relief hole in the master to become the high point of the fluid system.
All the air will eventually rise to that point and the master piston will pump it into the reservoir.
It's not fast, but it does work, usually overnight.

Depends on your quest to restore vs simply a working system.

Cheers,

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2011, 05:41:06 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on February 03, 2011, 01:28:31 PM

I don't believe an easy out has ever worked on a broken brake bleeder. In fact, I think that's bad advice in this case.

I have drilled them out and saved the threads for the original bleeder replacement. But, it is careful precision work.

You know, you can bleed the system without the bleeder. You just need the relief hole in the master to become the high point of the fluid system.
All the air will eventually rise to that point and the master piston will pump it into the reservoir.
It's not fast, but it does work, usually overnight.

Depends on your quest to restore vs simply a working system.

Cheers,

Probably won't work on the rear system as the master cylinder is lower than the bleed screw on the caliper on the 75/6 F. Now if you parked the bike on a steep incline.......

Never had to drill one of these out but I would imagine you have to match the bit to the inside diameter of the threads in the caliper. Then somehow pick the remnants from the threads at the same time not damaging the seat.

TwoTired · « **Reply #18 on:** February 03, 2011, 07:03:31 PM »

Quote from: srust58 on February 03, 2011, 05:41:06 PM

Probably won't work on the rear system as the master cylinder is lower than the bleed screw on the caliper on the 75/6 F. Now if you parked the bike on a steep incline.......

Who said the rear master had to remain mounted for bleeding the air out? For that matter, the caliper doesn't either. Just need a block to keep the piston in place.

Cheers,

78 k550 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 03, 2011, 08:08:17 PM »

Quote from: Tugboat on January 26, 2011, 08:27:25 AM

I'd definitely have to go to a machine shop to do any drilling. I may try some PB Blaster & an easy-out if I have one that'll fit. But for the money and effort it would take maybe I'd be better off just replacing it altogether? I think I read somewhere on here that Golwing calipers were the same as the 750F's - is that right?

I can check on the Goldwing specs for you.

Paul

78 k550 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 03, 2011, 08:11:48 PM »

If you break a eay out in it you will prob never get it out.
These are hard to find?
especially in my garage. LOL but I'm working on it. I might have a spare.

Paul

Roach · « **Reply #21 on:** February 03, 2011, 08:19:40 PM »

i still think you can get it out!!!!

heat the living #$%* out of it . dont cool it down that defeats the purpose of heating it have the easy out ready

if that wont work cut a groove in the side of the rest of the bleeder nipple. doesnt have to be a huge cut even just a score with a blade to you can rest a chissle on the grove hit it a couple times with a hammer. remember lefty loosy righty tightey. should come out no problem and probably save the threads too!! oh and heat the #$%* out of it before you do this. needs to be really hot

Stev-o · « **Reply #22 on:** February 03, 2011, 08:25:19 PM »

K550 - sell him a caliper!

scottly · « **Reply #23 on:** February 03, 2011, 08:54:36 PM »

Just speaking from my own experiences, but I have never had success with easy-outs to extract anything seized enough that it broke off. A broken bolt or bleeder can be drilled out; break off an easy-out in the hole, and you're screwed!

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 03, 2011, 10:15:50 PM »

Tug, your almost there !!.... just drill it out further biggest size without drilling into the threads. The thin wall thats left will then break if pried/ thumped with a straightedge....... turn a bolt of the correct size into the threads to clean 'em before fitting a new nipple....good luck

Tugboat · « **Reply #25 on:** February 17, 2011, 02:22:17 PM »

I just got an email from Glenn at Speedbleeder, and evidently they will drill out the old part and install a Speedbleeder as long as you buy one from them and pay shipping. More info here:
http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/c=z34hhTQX7qGlciZsQ0DpzRK1t/category/news/

Will report back with the results. Thanks guys!!!!!!!

britz73 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 17, 2011, 02:36:16 PM »

I was in you situation last week with a front caliper..........after much frustration another caliper was sourced. You are getting a lot of assistance from other members and this is great to see. I think we all want you to get that bleed nipple out - reading this is better that watching a sitcom..........carry on buddy and lets get this little bugger out! ps - I agree with other members, give it some heat but be aware that nipple will suck up a lot of that heat as well which defeats the purpose. If using easy outs be very careful and start with a small size and work you way up, otherwise you will cut into the threads with larger drill. On the flip side small easy outs break easily and then it's all over.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #27 on:** February 17, 2011, 07:23:13 PM »

Quote from: Tugboat on February 17, 2011, 02:22:17 PM

I just got an email from Glenn at Speedbleeder, and evidently they will drill out the old part and install a Speedbleeder as long as you buy one from them and pay shipping. More info here:
http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/c=z34hhTQX7qGlciZsQ0DpzRK1t/category/news/

Will report back with the results. Thanks guys!!!!!!!

Tug,

Sorry I forgot about that. I helped put the Speed Bleeder chart together in Brake FAQ and didn't think of that. The stainless Speed Bleeders are nice and still not THAT expensive. Use a little stainless anti-seeze too.

svenD · « **Reply #28 on:** February 18, 2011, 02:37:53 AM »

i broke one on my front caliper once,fitted a new brakeline with a small bleedscrew built into the caliper-end banjoe,the setup worked fine.it was made by avaylable parts(off the shelf)
sven

Tugboat · « **Reply #29 on:** March 22, 2011, 10:27:10 AM »

Just got the call from Speed Bleeder.. my caliper is fixed!!! He couldn't get the old screw out so he had to drill it & tap a new hole. Adapter = $7, Speed Bleeder = $7, Repair Service = $0.. total cost to repair (with shipping!) $14. Should be here in the next couple of days.

Now, hopefully it doesn't need a rebuild when I get it back!!

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 22, 2011, 10:49:37 AM »

Yippie !... now you have less and less excuses not to have this 750F ready to go on Godzilla Day

News:

Author Topic: '76 750F rear caliper - couldn't extract the broken bleeder. What now? (Read 7792 times)

bollingball