Topic: CB550 Cafe - My First bike build : Day... lost track

[q2418130103p]

I dont know if it is completely covered with filler, I'll find out when I sand some more for paint.

So I havent posted an update in awhile, I lost track of the days awhile ago.  But here is the head, I just got it back from Mike, he did a great job obviously:

[q2418130103p]

I had the same chipping problem with the de-finning as I did with the cylinders.  Anyone have any ideas on a better method?

[chronic_rider_550]

Where did you get that triple tree top? I've been looking for one for a while and can't seem to locate one that fits a cb550. I am doing a 1975 Honda CB550 Cafe project. I'm in college and poor so my project is going slowly. And my bike is my only transportation so I haven't been able to really do any engine work so far. But that triple tree top looks sweet and I want one. Sweet build by the way. I like it a lot.

Thanks for the compliment.

That is the factory tree with the handlebar supports cut off and then polished.

I could do one for you if you want, however it takes a number of hours.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

Sorry for the long wait on the reply. Awesome build btw. It looks like it's really coming together. Seeing that's its the factory and you just cut it off and polished it. I'll just end up doing the same thing. I have been looking into cutting and polishing. Just looking for the time to do it. School + work = overload.

[Flying J]

i took mine a step further and filled it in.

Shaving it down is quick, filling takes me a while.

[q2418130103p]

Looks good, and it gives you a good spot to mount indicator lights too.

[q2418130103p]

These are kinda dusty since they have been sitting on my living room floor for a few months, well teh cylinders have been.

[hyde7278]

very nice

I dont know if you want to answer this but what did it set you back for the head work?
and what rims are you using?

[q2418130103p]

Front rim is stock.  The rear rim is a 2.15" cb750 rim.

The head is a stage 2 port (I think), with new valve guides, new valves, hardweld rockers, serdi valve job, and probably some other stuff.  You should contact mrieck if you are interested.  He has a price list he can send you.  My head was a bit on the mangled side, so it needed a bit more work than usual.

[hyde7278]

thanks for answers, whats the best way to get a hold of Mike (PM her,email,ect)?

[SF]

RIMS AND HUBS LOOK GOOD SIR.

[q2418130103p]

RIMS AND HUBS LOOK GOOD SIR.

thanks!

[q2418130103p]

thanks for answers, whats the best way to get a hold of Mike (PM her,email,ect)?

PM MRieck

[q2418130103p]

I mangled one of my crank bearings when I was assembling the engine, so the engine assembly has been delayed until new crank bearings come in.  Should be wednesday.

I am still waiting on the hardweld rockers too, but I can put most the engine together without those.

My immeditate concerns are with the taillight and kickstand, since plans for these are delaying paint.

The standard BCR design has a hole cut in the back of the seat with a taillight mounted tangentially to the curve of the seat.  This is a fine look, but I intend to french the light in instead.  So what I need to decide on is what taillight I want to mount, and how deep to mount it in.  I could mount it entirely inside the seat, or have it stick our just a bit.  I think I have to pick the taillight before I can buy the right diameter pipe.

Here is a pic, the black lines will be the piped in section inside the seat.  The red lines are a few potential mounting locations for the light.



For the kickstand, I am not a big fan of the factory design, the mounting point is just too bulky.  It wont kill me to use the factory one, but I think I would rather change it up a bit.  Since I dont actually know what height the bike will sit at, I cant really pick a full kickstand kit yet.  I want to be able to at least pick some kind of mount for a generic kickstand, so I can put the mount on before paint, then pick the kickstand after I get the bike height.  Any ideas?

[q2418130103p]

Bottom end is assembled. I'll put the pistons and jugs on next week.

While I believe I put the rods on te correct way, key forward, does anyone know if the markings for weight and size can be used to verify this?

The splines on the gear selector are practicality gone.  So I either have to remake them, figure out a different attachment idea, or find a replacement.

[q2418130103p]

I think I am going to use one of these



I need to try to find a socket that will take a 3wire bulb though.

[q2418130103p]

Soo I cant find one of these pontiac tailights that is 4" or less.  Any bigger than 4" and it would just look crazy.

Do you think it would be tacky to use a Cadillac type light?  I would probably have the tip stick out of the fender about 3/4"

[MRieck]

These are kinda dusty since they have been sitting on my living room floor for a few months, well teh cylinders have been.

That particular chamber had a lot of rot right where that groove is below the sparkplug and the squish band. It had to be filled with quite a bit of tig and hand finished. It came out pretty good if I say so myself.

[q2418130103p]

lol, it sure did.

I didnt even realize that was the repaired cylinder, I just took a picture of a random one.

[q2418130103p]

I havent quite finished the frenched tail light yet, still needs some finish work around the welds.

Hole drilled in seat for frenched bucket:
picture missing... I dont know what i did with it.  The seat originally had a hole drilled tangentially to the surface, I had to drill a new hole perpendicular to the bottom of the seat.  I had to build a jig to hold the seat vertically in a drill press.  I then put a hole saw on the drill press and used that to draw a projection of the circle across the seat. 

The bucket:



Bucket installed (the weld is still a bit dirty).  This is a rather tough piece to weld in, you dont really have access to the critical areas.  As a result, some of the weld is thin, and I broke through it when I started cleaning up the weld.  I think it is going to be a long process of welding, grinding a hole, filling it in, then grinding another hole...

[q2418130103p]

Oh yeah, here is the frame in primer.  The front fender and swingarm are in primer too.

[Flying J]

Holy crap there is a bit of bondo on that seat.

[q2418130103p]

Yea... I'm fixing that.  The tank is like that too.  When you put the grinder to it you get an instant dust cloud.

[Retro Rocket]

Holy crap there is a bit of bondo on that seat.

That seems to be common with Benji's stuff, i would send it back and ask for a full refund, to me that is totally unacceptable....You buy an aluminium seat then it should be all aluminium, or aluminum as you guys say....

[q2418130103p]

Well its a metal seat and tank, so I expect a light to medium amount of body filler.  I believe the aluminum versions are shipped bare, so I assume they are rather smooth.  I asked bcr about it, and they said it was normal for their stuff because amount of curves or something like that, I forget... whatever the reason, I will get it down to less than 50% filler coverage.

[Retro Rocket]

Well its a metal seat and tank, so I expect a light to medium amount of body filler.  I believe the aluminum versions are shipped bare, so I assume they are rather smooth.  I asked bcr about it, and they said it was normal for their stuff because amount of curves or something like that, I forget... whatever the reason, I will get it down to less than 50% filler coverage.

To me, thats a rather poor answer from Benji. Someone here said he was getting this stuff made over seas {maybe the philippines } and there have been similar issues here on this site. Seems to me if you can make a tank and seat out of shiny aluminium without bondo then you should be able to do the same with mild steel. That is a hell of a lot of filler. I have done a lot of panel work over the years and NEVER needed to use that amount of bondo..