Author Topic: Need help with valve adjustment!!!!! (Read 4556 times)

Lenny55 · « **on:** June 21, 2009, 03:48:08 PM »

So I'm tackling my first valve adjustment, and it seemed to be going pretty good until I got to cylinder 2 exhaust valve. No matter what I do I can't get the feeler guage in there. I've tightened and loosened the adjuster quite a bit, but no dice. Cylinder 1 is on the left when you're sitting on the bike right? I had play in both of those tappets as per the manual. Any idea where I'm going wrong? Thanks

Lenny55 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 21, 2009, 04:18:21 PM »

Should there be play in all the tappets? I have play in both in cylinder 1, but none in cylinders 2 and 3.

heffay · « **Reply #2 on:** June 21, 2009, 04:24:23 PM »

keep in mind you must rotate the crankshaft per the manual after adjusting half of the valves... then you can do the other half.

Quote from: Lenny55 on June 21, 2009, 03:48:08 PM

Cylinder 1 is on the left when you're sitting on the bike right?

yes

CBGhia · « **Reply #3 on:** June 21, 2009, 04:26:15 PM »

Heffay beat me to it. Did you turn the engine over?

There is a marking for top dead center for 1/ 4 and another for 2/ 3.

Lenny55 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2009, 06:18:16 PM »

Hey guys, yeah I turned the engine over. The manual I have seems wrong though. It says to line the marks up so that both tappets are loose in cylinder 1. Adjust cylinder 1's valves, and then the exhaust valve for cylinder 2 and the inlet valve for cylinder 3.

When I had play in cylinder 1's tappets, #2exhaust and #3inlet were tight. #2 inlet and #3 exhaust had play.

When I turned the engine over so that I had play in the #4 tappets, I was finally able to adjust #2 exhaust and #3inlet.

Seemed to be the opposite of what my manual was telling me. Anyhow, got them adjusted, now the bike sounds different. A little more noise coming from the engine. I'll have to give it another go I guess.

heffay · « **Reply #5 on:** June 21, 2009, 06:28:51 PM »

my shop manual reads reverse from what I think it should, as well.
if i remember correctly, the exhaust and inlet should be flip flopped in the manual or the 1,2,3,4 need to be reversed or something like that... take special care to do exactly what its telling you and not what you want it to tell you.

its really just a printing preference, not a mistake.

imamotohead · « **Reply #6 on:** June 21, 2009, 06:30:46 PM »

Did you adjust the cam chain tension as well? Maybe that's your noise?

Lenny55 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 21, 2009, 07:18:14 PM »

No, didn't adjust the cam chain tension, was a little frustrated so I thought I would call it a night. .

Quote from: heffay on June 21, 2009, 06:28:51 PM

my shop manual reads reverse from what I think it should, as well.
if i remember correctly, the exhaust and inlet should be flip flopped in the manual or the 1,2,3,4 need to be reversed or something like that... take special care to do exactly what its telling you and not what you want it to tell you. its really just a printing preference, not a mistake.

I guess no matter what the manual says, you can't adjust the valves unless you can wiggle them around right? I don't see how you could otherwise

super pasty white guy · « **Reply #8 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:00:06 PM »

My take on valve adjustmet is this: remove all caps. Turn to tdc and adjust what's loose. Per Hondaman, I use 0.03. and 0.04. Cap what you adjusted.
Repeat.

spwg

super pasty white guy · « **Reply #9 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:00:40 PM »

My take on valve adjustmet is this: remove all caps. Turn to tdc and adjust what's loose. Per Hondaman, I use 0.03. and 0.04. Cap what you adjusted.
Repeat.

spwg

Steve F · « **Reply #10 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:10:42 PM »

I've noticed that on some of the valves, I couldn't get a feeler between the screw and the valve and still get the valves to quit ticking. Turned out that the screw had worn an indentation in the end of the valve which prevented the correct gap using a feeler. Only fix for that is to have the end of the valve ground flat again.

Lenny55 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:11:49 PM »

Quote from: super pasty white guy on June 21, 2009, 08:00:40 PM

My take on valve adjustmet is this: remove all caps. Turn to tdc and adjust what's loose. Per Hondaman, I use 0.03. and 0.04. Cap what you adjusted.
Repeat.

spwg

That's what I did. Seemed to make sense to me. I used .002 and .003 as per the manual.

Quote from: Steve F on June 21, 2009, 08:10:42 PM

I've noticed that on some of the valves, I couldn't get a feeler between the screw and the valve and still get the valves to quit ticking. Turned out that the screw had worn an indentation in the end of the valve which prevented the correct gap using a feeler. Only fix for that is to have the end of the valve ground flat again.

Hard to imagine that could be the problem, my bike only has about 4500 miles on it. Starting to wonder if the odo is for real or not.

birdmannn101 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 26, 2009, 06:52:46 AM »

Lenny,

Did you ever get any help on your valve adjustment problem? The reason I am asking is because I have the exact same problem trying to adjust the valves on my 73 CB750. I get #1 and #4 okay but there is no room in there to get a feeler guage in #2 and #3 tappets.

Let me know if you figure out what the problem is.

I remember adjusting the valves on my CB350F and it worked great and I don't remember having this problem then.

I am trying to remember if I just turned the engine over till the T 1/4 mark lined up or brought #4 to TDC on the compression stroke and then set T 1/4.

faux fiddy · « **Reply #13 on:** February 14, 2011, 08:37:59 AM »

bump....

The 350f manual here says .002 for both intake and exhaust. Still hard to get to the exhaust valves.

Any tips? What do your "little" feeler guages look like?

Lenny55 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 14, 2011, 07:07:35 PM »

Wow, old post I'd forgotten about.......turned out my problem was stupidity/inexperience. I had the intake and exhaust valve reversed in my mind. Once I thought about it, I realised the inlet valves are on the carb side, and the exhaust valves are on the exhaust side. Go figure eh?

Once I got it straight, the instructions in the manaul made sense.

I dont have a pic of my feeler guage, but I grabbed one at my local shop for around 6 dollars or so. It's just an aluminum handle with .002 on one end, and.003 on the other. the actual guage parts are bent to a 45 degree angle in relation to the handle. Makes it a lot easier to get in there with it vs. the straight ones.

The valve adjustment gets easier after you tackle it a few times.

Lenny.

faux fiddy · « **Reply #15 on:** February 14, 2011, 07:43:38 PM »

Hopefully I can find one of these at a local shop,too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CB750-CB350-CB550-CB360-Valve-Feeler-Gauges-Set-HONDA-/180622282963?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0ded50d3

Lenny55 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 14, 2011, 08:45:18 PM »

That's exactly what mine looks like.

Duanob · « **Reply #17 on:** February 15, 2011, 11:00:38 AM »

This page is correct and works like a charm.

flybox1 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 15, 2011, 11:08:49 AM »

these will come in handy, too..
http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-tappet-adjustment-wrench-set

Lenny55 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 15, 2011, 01:02:51 PM »

Those look pretty sweet. Is there an 8mm in there as well? Seems like they would be handy for synching the carbs too.

flybox1 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 15, 2011, 01:33:49 PM »

nope....thats what this one is for

http://motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0022/

fishobos · « **Reply #21 on:** February 15, 2011, 03:47:56 PM »

I'm not sure but when you adjust the first set then don't you turn the engine to 180 degrees and adjust the other two.

Lenny55 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 15, 2011, 07:02:34 PM »

Might have to get me each of those...........

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Author Topic: Need help with valve adjustment!!!!! (Read 4556 times)