Topic: Combination ignition switch question- it's fixed, but one other thing...

[Jonesy]

I got the "new" Cb550 up and running, but I hit a small snag. I turn the key on and nothing happens. I checked the fuses and confirmed I was getting power to the switch. If I turn the switch on and push on the wiring harness connection, the bike comes to life and works fine from then on, until I go to turn it on again later. I suspect the igniton switch (it has that funky combination fork lock/ignition unit on the handlebars) and tonight my suspicions were confirmed when I wiggled the harness to turn the bike on so I could aim the headlight, I saw blue flashes through the plastic switch contact housing.

So, my question is can the switch be taken apart and cleaned/repaired somehow, or is it toast? To I need to buy a whole new switch? I've seen aftermarket contact assemblies, but the one place I know that carries them is out of them. On the parts drawings I don't see it listed as a separate part, but is the contact assembly alone available from Honda?

Thanks!

Oh, BTW.. when I go to sync the carbs, do I have to take the tops off the carbs to get at the adjustment screws? A manual I got with the bike (not Honda, of course.... ) only shows adjusters on the outside of the carbs, but I don't see any...

[Kevin D]

Jonsey, I can't speak specifically for your 550, but I was able to repair two problems with  my ignition switch:
1) At the harness plug, one of the pins wasn't quite centered in the plastic holder. The wayward pin needed its own individual push to reenter the opposing receptacle.
2) I got at the dirty switch contacts by unfolding the metal tabs on the backside of the switch.

[bwaller]

Hey Jonesy,

I'm in the same boat, the bike I'm building didn't have a switch so picked up a used one (mistake) which needed to be taken apart for lubrication and cleaning, and the base was toast. I bought an Emgo switch base from Dennis Kirk, but I can see it won't last. It just doesn't fit tightly enough, so I'm looking for a new switch I quess, Honda didn't offer just the base, I'm not even sure the switch can be had separately, it might be sold with the seat lock which in my case I don't need as I'm using a different tail section. I haven't phoned my local dealer yet but found an on-line price of $199 and just about croaked!

If the carbs are PD's you'll have to remove the carb tops to adjust.

[Jonesy]

Thanks, guys. I'll try to take the switch apart and see if I can remedy it.

[Jonesy]

Well, this story has a happy ending!

I carefully took the switch apart and was able to clean the contacts with automotive contact cleaner. I also found two of the terminals were loose, so one light tap with a pin punch on the copper rivets tightened them back up. Now, every time I turn the key the bike instantly comes alive, ready to go.

Now, if I could just get the damned cam chain to quiet down, I'll be in business. After adjusting the valves and repairing the exhaust, the cam chain is now the loudest thing in the motor. I tried adjusting it per the owners manual, but the adjuster will barely move more than a quarter turn. Is it stuck? How much movement should I get out of it?

[ProTeal55]

On a side note.
Automotive key switches are a great way to kill two birds (ign. & starter) with one stone.
This way, the same key will "ignite" your ignition , as well as start your bike.

Just an idea, that works for once 

[TwoTired]

Now, if I could just get the damned cam chain to quiet down, I'll be in business. After adjusting the valves and repairing the exhaust, the cam chain is now the loudest thing in the motor. I tried adjusting it per the owners manual, but the adjuster will barely move more than a quarter turn. Is it stuck? How much movement should I get out of it?

If you've positioned the cam chain so the slack is on the tensioner side, it is spring loaded so loosening the lock nut automaticaly has the shoe move in to take up the slack.  The lock nut freezes the mechanism so chain pressure on the shoe won't push the shoe back out again.  If you can turn the screw slot easily with the jam nut loose, you can try turning it a little more in the direction the spring moves it, aiding the spring, and lock it down there.  This sometimes helps.  Sadly, the tensioner shoes can wear out with high miles.  And, the chain makes more noise then.  I don't think I've noticed more than a quarter turn movement on the screw post.

I received one 550 where the jam nut was stripped.  Boy, did that chain make a racket when it got reved up.

Cheers,

[Jonesy]

Thanks, TwoTired. The bike only has 11 grand on the clock, so I don't think the tensioner is worn out and it looked like it had a steady diet of oil changes (the innards were pretty clean). Which way do I turn the adjuster to tighten the chain up? It seems like the racket comes and goes as I blip the throttle.

[TwoTired]

I knew you were going ask that.  Pretty sure clockwise moves the shoe into the chain.  I've got a new tensioner in a box somewhere and can't find it right now.  Anyway, if you really loosen (don't remove) the jam nut, you can push the stud/screw in about 1/16 inch to loosen and allow it to turn freely.   This totally unlocks the slider inside that holds chain tension.  You should feel spring tension while turning that stud in one direction and then try to move itself back.  That's the tension direction and if you want to boost the spring tension with your wrist, that's the way to add to it.  Just don't add the force of Hercules or the Hulk.  More like Peter Pan.  Then snug up the jam nut.

Dang, where did I put that spare tensioner?  Gonna drive me nuts 'til I find that little Bas*****...

Oh well,  Best of luck!

[mack808]

have your dealer check for these two Honda parts, they are the plastic cover at the bottom of the switch and the electrical contact for the switch. This was a common problem and thats why the A/M jumped on the bandwagon for repair parts. And like the other gentleman stated, the a/m parts are crap. I believe K&L use to have a good quality replacement set for the switch bottoms also and theirs use to be much better quality.....  heres the two part numbers..... 35101-422-007 H/C 092529,(plastic switch cover), and 35102-431-007 H/C 092530, (the contact section of the switch).  I have also had good luck finding used/usable switch assy. and just swapping out either the key/lock part or just using the lower pieced from the still good switch.  Hope this helps you

[bwaller]

mack808, thanks for that info I wasn't aware Honda offered those two parts. It's exactly what I need.