Author Topic: 1969 CL 450 Restore for a friend. (Read 16981 times)

mlinder · « **Reply #25 on:** March 17, 2011, 07:08:57 PM »

Yub. I got too much to work on, though, really. Starting the conversion of my GS550 to 675cc, then to 740cc, as a testbed for some ideas for the gs750 racebike. Mike will be helping me with that (read: he's doing everything that's important). Tons of crap like that. And working.. and.. everything else.

I need a couple more of me.

Looking forward to your progress on the 450.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 24, 2011, 04:36:53 PM »

The shiny bits where done yesterday, picked them up nice work by all, a couple of things I'll work harder on next time, like sanding heavily rusted chrome bits myself before delivering to chrome plater.

I had the exhaust split ring heavily plated with copper to help it seal when I reassemble.

Storage space for shiny bits is always a problem, not the best solution, but a solution.

mlinder · « **Reply #27 on:** March 24, 2011, 07:05:17 PM »

Looks very nice. And yes, interesting storage solution.

The Mayor · « **Reply #28 on:** March 25, 2011, 11:06:45 AM »

Subscribed! I just picked up a '69 CL450 as well, early model with the round tank emblem & reflector on the front fender.
Mine is painted black, but I'm pretty sure it was blue to begin with. Where there other colors for those early 69s?

I'd love to see some pics of originals or info if anyone has anything - trying to find out as much as I can - I plan to just ride it this summer but do a restore in the winter.

MoMo · « **Reply #29 on:** March 25, 2011, 11:13:19 AM »

Quote from: The Mayor on March 25, 2011, 11:06:45 AM

Subscribed! I just picked up a '69 CL450 as well, early model with the round tank emblem & reflector on the front fender.
Mine is painted black, but I'm pretty sure it was blue to begin with. Where there other colors for those early 69s?

I'd love to see some pics of originals or info if anyone has anything - trying to find out as much as I can - I plan to just ride it this summer but do a restore in the winter.

Here is a site with all Honda year and color info...Larry

Markcb750 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 26, 2011, 04:23:22 PM »

Lots done today with the rain keeping me in the house.

In addition to the photos below, wire brushed, wiped with solvent, filled gashes and primed the frame. Plus welded the cracked tabs on the tail light, ground them flat again & primed.

Good day.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 27, 2011, 02:59:52 PM »

Polising aluminum is dirty work, need more latex gloves.

Greggo · « **Reply #32 on:** March 27, 2011, 03:16:36 PM »

Looks good! What's that you're using for the polishing?

Markcb750 · « **Reply #33 on:** March 27, 2011, 03:45:32 PM »

Some parts rouge on a cotton buffing wheel in my 30 YO Craftsman drill.

Some with White Diamond liquid polish and a terry cloth.

The white diamond seems to work better on rough finishes like the triple clamp.

MoMo · « **Reply #34 on:** March 27, 2011, 05:44:28 PM »

Mark, have you ever tried the nitrile gloves? Bit more expensive but fit the hand better and seem to last longer...Larry

Markcb750 · « **Reply #35 on:** April 02, 2011, 02:14:50 PM »

Photolar, I have them now thanks for the advice.

Spent this week prepping parts to be painted gloss black. I bought two inexpensive guns, one a HF 15 dollar unit, one a Kobalt 40 dollar small gun. The HF gun had a 1.5 mm orifice the Kobalt a 1.0. I chose the Kobalt for this because I could control the amount of paint better.

Things I learned from this:

1) Water on the floor will not prevent the floor from picking up paint, it may clear off OK but tacky tacky tacky.
2) Urethane paint flows great, minimal problems with flow and gloss. One run which will be under the upper motor mount, no complaints.
3) Provide more space between parts next time.
4) Never buy a $10 Lowe's POS Chinese light, it will fail within 30 min.
5) Presbyopia SUCKS!

Markcb750 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 13, 2011, 04:44:27 PM »

Lots done this week, starting to put things together.

The seat with its foam carved out of a old 750F seat came out nice!

The sprocket bolts which float in steel lined rubber bushings where coated with "fretting" corrosion, (fretting is a old term for rust ground to dust by vibration) I covered them with Dry molly and coated the interior bores with spray on disk brake silencer. The next owner can determine if this was a good Idea.

Off to get some brake cleaner and some STP to coat the cam support bearings as I reassemble them.

Mark

Nikkisixx · « **Reply #37 on:** April 13, 2011, 06:58:54 PM »

Hey man - that seat came out great! Make sure to tack the cost on the final bill

MoMo · « **Reply #38 on:** April 13, 2011, 09:12:39 PM »

Quote from: Nikkisixx on April 13, 2011, 06:58:54 PM

Hey man - that seat came out great! Make sure to tack the cost on the final bill

+1 on that, very nice seat, Mark...Larry

The Mayor · « **Reply #39 on:** April 14, 2011, 07:17:49 AM »

Enjoying this thread! Just picked up a '69 CL450K1 myself about two weeks ago. Couple of questions for you guys...
Mark - where'd you find your seat cover? I've been looking into a few options but it's hard to know without actually getting to see the product. Happy with the results?
Also, I'm trying to find out a little about a few parts that I'm not sure whether are original or not...

I thought the tail light was supposed to be a smaller rounded type - but I see yours looks the same. Did they use both on these models?

Markcb750 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 14, 2011, 03:46:32 PM »

Good afternoon Your Honor:

The seat cover came from a guy on Ebay, he is almost always there if you do a search. I can find the guy from my friend as he ordered the part so I have no record.

I think the seat came out well, lots of work to replace the foam as the old seat was natural rubber and was badly deteriorated.

I only know of the smaller rectangular taillight unit on the '69. I have two 70/74 taillights which are the same as on my '76 750.

MoMo · « **Reply #41 on:** April 14, 2011, 05:50:50 PM »

I think the smaller light ended with the 69 model and from there on the larger unit was standard. It is a fuzzy memory but I think it is correct...Larry

Markcb750 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 15, 2011, 02:15:21 AM »

I only have four aluminum parts left to polish! I have found that using WD40 to sand with speeds the process, water would create a gray gummy past that slowed the process, and polishing takes long enough.

White Diamond metal polish is my new favorite snake oil!

I have acquired a 1967 Black bomber that was stored in a shed with no walls in upstate NY! It has a Title! has not run for 28 years but the motor spins.

Markcb750 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 17, 2011, 06:18:25 AM »

I found one more piece to polish.

The bolt retainers that have tabs bent to lock critical bolts/nuts in place are in poor condition. So, my questions is what alternatives have y'all tried to safety a bolt/nut, yet make it removable for repair?

MoMo · « **Reply #44 on:** April 17, 2011, 08:10:30 AM »

You found a Black Bomber with a title?

You must post a couple photos. Are the locking tabs unuseable? If so, you either need a donor bike, some fabricating skills or maybe go to the twin forum. I have always been able to reuse any part, may not have been pretty but it worked...Larry

Markcb750 · « **Reply #45 on:** April 17, 2011, 12:31:07 PM »

Yes indeed, a genuine NYS title from 1982! I have some hard copies and some Polaroids (you remember them?

) Just need to scan them in. It is as ROUGH as you can imagine having been essentially outside for 29 years.

I can make the tabs look better, but not pristine. I had to remove one tab on each that was ready to break off. New would be nice. Do you know what alloy they are? soft but not very strong, maybe a lead/tin material?

Copper would work, but color would be off.

MoMo · « **Reply #46 on:** April 17, 2011, 05:19:27 PM »

Mark, copper is easy to find. HF sells an assortment, you could use a cast aluminum paint on the copper to mask the color. I do not know if the parts are available but if you check www.mrcycles.com microfiche and there is not a reference to the part then there is a good chance what you are looking for is not available...Larry

neverendingproject · « **Reply #47 on:** April 17, 2011, 06:34:18 PM »

This place http://www.onlinemetals.com/ is good for small quantities of different metals in odd sizes. Not sure what they're made of though $:-\$

Markcb750 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 24, 2011, 07:25:40 PM »

This weekend I put the motor back into the frame. Good thing I did not spring a leak under the sink and need to turn off water at the street...

I also made a offset version of the clutch lever with an offset to better clear the final drive chain. My only concern is that it will operate in a rotational zone which will make the effort worthwhile. I suspect the damage shown in the second photo was due to not being careful when adjusting the clutch. I had an excuse to weld though, and use my favorite tool my dremmel.

MoMo · « **Reply #49 on:** April 25, 2011, 01:38:33 PM »

Mark, that mutilated clutch actuator is normal as many owners would spread the holder inorder to get a new cable in, then after buggering it they would squeeze it back together so the cable would not pop out. Nice repair...Larry

News:

Author Topic: 1969 CL 450 Restore for a friend. (Read 16981 times)

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750

Markcb750