Author Topic: 79 CB 650 refurb turns resto / mod (Read 53814 times)

thrutheframe · « **Reply #125 on:** December 30, 2011, 07:45:53 AM »

I'm back from my painful tour of Canada (no reflection on Canada) and the parts budget is replenished. I already bought a new RegRec combo and installed it last night. I have a few other parts on order but nothing too exciting. My initial plans are to remove the fuel tank and side covers and have them professionally painted and while those are out, go to war against oil leaks. I told myself, no more bikes and no non-650 parts until this bike is done.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #126 on:** December 30, 2011, 08:02:10 AM »

Some pics, I bought the RecReg combo from regulatorrectifier.com. $89.99.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #127 on:** January 17, 2012, 09:25:45 AM »

I bought a 2" K&N air filter from eBay for the cam cover vent. I want to mount it side ways facing the right hand side under the edge of the gas tank about where the petcock is on the other side.
I'm going to paint the tank silver metallic and flat black and the side covers silver metallic. I'm undecided about the tank, whether I want to replicate the factory paint scheme but in my colors or only paint the raised portion on the top of the tank flat black.
I pulled the tank off and drained it, you can see how nasty the petcock is and the damaged seal. The rust residue in the petcockmade me decide to get out the telescoping magnet.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #128 on:** January 17, 2012, 09:59:06 AM »

Three of about 12 passes, the tank looks clean when I shine a flashlight in there. I'll get it cleaned out with some nuts and bolt and a magnet on a string.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #129 on:** January 19, 2012, 09:10:40 AM »

I had the roofing nails, the acid and gloves cost $12.00. We'll see how this works.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #130 on:** January 20, 2012, 06:06:07 AM »

Sorry to say the nails and muriatic acid were a completete failure. I didnt have any issues getting the rust off, the issue was getting the debris out once the nails and acid did their thing. The filler neck has a 3/4" lip that extends down into the tank which prevents a thorough flushing of the tank. I decided to take the tank to Industrial Radiator for a chem dip and redkote, $150.00 seems like a fair price. If I like what he did I'll take the rest of my tanks there.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #131 on:** January 20, 2012, 11:20:25 AM »

So with the the tank off at the radiator shop I wanted to get on this top end oil leak. Yesterday I had a buddy come down and we moved the 360 out in the hall and I got the work bench all cleaned off to make room for this project.
I took the bolts out in 3 steps in the pattern shown in my Clymer manual. You can see how I bagged and labeled everything. I was missing one seal washer, but that wasn't close to the leak. In the second pic you can see the area where the seal had deteriorated, and in 3 the seal in the same spot. The seal is dry and losing it's flexibility.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #132 on:** January 20, 2012, 11:55:26 AM »

I got it partly re-assembled and had to leave my shop so I could eat and take care of a few things before I have to work tonight. I have all day tomorrow to get it put back together. Based on the condition of the seal and the oil patterns, I'm pretty sure I have it solved.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #133 on:** January 21, 2012, 05:39:35 PM »

I had to thaw out the lock to my shop today. That is after I went to sears for a new set of feeler gauges, a small size (3/8) torque wrench, a few 1/4" to 3/8" socket adaptors, and a 4 drawer rolling tool box.

The cam cover went back on pretty easily. I followed the bolt pattern from the Clymer and Honda manuals and turned each screw in 1/4 turn on the first two passes, on the third pass I went to 1/8 turn and on the 4th pass I torqued them to spec. 6 ft/lbs or, if I have my math correct 72 in/lbs. I got as far as getting the valves adjusted on cylinder 1 and my need for food and beer got me. I'm headed back now to finish setting the valve clearances.

Nothing fancy but here are a few pics from earlier today.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #134 on:** January 21, 2012, 10:53:21 PM »

I got it all buttoned up, the valves are pretty easy to adjust on this bike, you're looking right down on top of the cam and rockers. I mentioned the leak at the oil filter bolt. Sorry I didn't take any pics of the parts I replaced there. You can see the old bolt has been ground down by a PO. The o-ring at the base needed replaced, the new bolt came with a new o-ring and that was nice and snug compared to the old one. The bike was missing the seat between the oil filter and the spring. Part #6 in the fiche at the bottom of the pics. Tomorrow, I have to fill it with oil and I'll put a battery on it and crank it over a few times to make sure it's oil tight.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #135 on:** January 22, 2012, 02:35:36 PM »

Oil filled, leak tested it all by cranking it with the starter, no visible leaks. I'll hook it up to a spare tank and start it up when I get a chance. Aside from verifying the oil leak repairs I need to test my charging system with the new recky/reg and rotor. I'm going to Indy tomorrow to work for awhile so it could be a week or more.
I also re-routed my clutch cable and covered it in stainless steel braid to protect it from the exhaust. The lever pull is super sweet now.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #136 on:** January 27, 2012, 06:13:49 AM »

The guy called about my tank. Said it was done, $75.00. Picking it up Monday.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #137 on:** January 28, 2012, 08:24:13 AM »

Painted some small parts and worked on mocking location for my cam cover air filter. I plan to put it just be behind the cylinder head kind of between there and the carbs. I have a bracket in mind that will go onto the carb rack then the air hose will clip into the bracket and the filter will slide into the air hose and be hose clamped in place.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #138 on:** January 29, 2012, 02:46:51 PM »

My buddy gave me a shelf unit!

thrutheframe · « **Reply #139 on:** January 30, 2012, 01:05:11 PM »

I picked up my tank this morning before I came to work. You can see how strong the chemicals are. It strips most of the paint right off of the tank. I was a little disappointed that he got that much redcoat on the outside of the tank but that'll give me a chance to see how durable it really is.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #140 on:** February 02, 2012, 05:38:59 AM »

Well I'm still here in Indy for the Super Bowl Craziness. I keep obsessing over my top end oil leak. I solved 80 - 90% of the leak which is good but in reality means I have a small top end oil leak. I'm pretty sure the problem is that I didn't replace the "pucks" over the cylinder head bolts. I was reluctant to dig into that and hoping (wrongly) that the entire issue was the cam cover seal. My reluctance to pull those out was due in part to the fact that the existing "pucks" are concave and the new ones are flat. When I get home I have a few days off to revisit this, if I pull the old ones out and the new ones aren't right I'll just order the OEM parts from bike bandit.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #141 on:** February 08, 2012, 06:41:32 PM »

I took the cam cover off the 650 last night and replaced the the head bolt seals. 5 of 6 were allowing oil to get in from the top and at least one maybe two were allowing oil to pass out the bottom.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #142 on:** February 08, 2012, 08:09:43 PM »

thrutheframe · « **Reply #143 on:** February 09, 2012, 08:06:36 AM »

I didn't get to the valves today. I'm leaving later today until Sunday, I went to Ones and Zeroes but worked on painting some little parts. I also double checked the stopping point on my bars/controls. At some point after the tank came off I rotated the handle bars forward a bit to get the clearance I was lacking on the right hand control. I put the tank on to make sure it clears.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #144 on:** February 13, 2012, 07:54:48 PM »

Right hand side cover. The crack was caused by the sid cover being pulled off by the front instead of at the pin. I groovd the back side of the crack and cleaned the debris out really well. Then I hit the whole thing with 180, 320 and 600 grade sand paper. I'm going to hand them over to my painter after another wet sanding at 600. If they need more attention he'll have to charge me.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #145 on:** February 13, 2012, 07:58:07 PM »

Loc-Tite plastic weld two part epoxy.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #146 on:** February 13, 2012, 08:07:48 PM »

I didn't get a good shot of the groove I made in this side. I filed it out real nice with the same mini file I used on the inside flat surface at the top. I used a wire brush to get the plastic debris out of the groove.

fastbroshi · « **Reply #147 on:** February 14, 2012, 01:37:54 AM »

What chemicals did you use to strip the tank? Whatever they were it looks like they worked great.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #148 on:** February 14, 2012, 04:33:18 AM »

I took it to a Semi Truck radiator shop, Industrial Radiator. He warned me and I had read here that it would likely take most of the paint off.

thrutheframe · « **Reply #149 on:** February 14, 2012, 08:44:15 AM »

Worked on cleaning up the lip of the filler neck.

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Author Topic: 79 CB 650 refurb turns resto / mod (Read 53814 times)