Topic: A couple of clutch assy questions cb 750

[paddy paul]

Putting together my clutch after almost a year, and looking at my Clymer manual they show that you start with  a clutch plate, while the Honda manual shows starting with the friction/fiber disk, so which is the right way, and which way do you install the curved spring washer, convex side out ?

[Kevin D]

Im guessing you have a K5? and the parts fiche shows 7 fibers 6 metals, so its fibers on the outsides.

The washer goes convex out, dished side in.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750-four-k5-usa_model483/partslist/E++09.html

I spent a few nights at the hotel Pueblo West while my Plymouth tranny was being rebuilt in Pueblo. 1993??? There was nothing else there but the hotel and the laundromat. Very nice hotel.
My daughter had turned blue at the top of Pikes Peak and we had to hustle her down. She was OK again at 9000 feet but when the Plymouth got to Canon City the tranny went BOOM.

[paddy paul]

 thanks,  Pueblo West has grown since then, too many people now,  just like everwhere i suppose

[HondaMan]

The washer in the center that holds the hub in: the "cupped" side goes toward the engine.

There are 4 distinct clutch arrangements in the 750: which model do you have?
The K0-early K1 have 6/6 fiber and steel plates with a spring clip on the top, and the K0 sandcast early ones have (had) a one-sided top plate with fiber on just one side.

The K1-K3 early style had 6/6 plates with no spring clip, started with steel plate in first.
The later K3-K6 had 7/6 fiber/steel plates, fiber in first.

The F0-F1 had 6/6 plates, with a special dual steel spring plate in the center of the stack: the Haynes manual incorrectly shows this special plate as second from the top of the stack. Many of these special plates were replaced with a thicker solid plate from the Gold Wing to reduce clutch rattle when the engine was idling unevenly and the primary chains were a little worn.

The F1 late through F3/K8 had 5/6 fiber/steel with the above-noted center "dual" spring plate, but with one more special slanted-cork face fiber clutch on the top of the stack. Many of these had fiber on just one side, much like the early sandcast top plate. This slanted-cork plate was introduced to try to soften the launch torque a little to reduce the wear on the 1-2 gear dogs and shift fork.

If you install a K1-K3 clutch cover on a later bike, you may find that the stack will not let the clutch lifter work properly, as the spacing to the hub is different. So, make sure of your parts after the long disassembly. 

[paddy paul]

thanks for the info, honda man, my bike is a K5,