Author Topic: How to lower a 750? (Read 11712 times)

duke · « **on:** February 25, 2011, 12:47:42 PM »

I have short legs and just need to lower the bike 1-2". I have a torn ACL in my right knee and have trouble holding the bike up when first coming to a stop. I'm ok after I get my right leg down off the brake, but really need to lower the bike so I can put my left foot down flat. What's the best way to lower? Can I get shorter tires or will I have to lower the shocks? Any links to someone who does this mod? Thanks.

BLUE71TURBO · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2011, 01:14:01 PM »

Hello Duke, Gain some weight or get a fat girl friend to ride with ya !

On a serious note, they make lowering blocks for the rear shocks. It moves the bottom of the shock rearward hence lowering the rear of the motorcycle.
You can find them on EBAY or maybe some member here might have some for sale. As for the front forks, the cheap
and easy way to lower them is to loosen the tripple clamp bolts and move the fork tubes up further in the tripple clamps.

I just found this set to show you what they look like............

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CB750-K0-K1-CB500-CB550-SHOCK-LOWERING-BLOCKS-/150568524246?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230e9559d6

duke · « **Reply #2 on:** February 25, 2011, 03:30:23 PM »

You're awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for! Have to change the front seals so will have that done at same time. Thanks again.

BTW, I don't think my wife would like a fat girl on the back there with her. Then again, because my wife is there already, perhaps a skinny blonde would give us just the extra weight we need! :-)

stueveone · « **Reply #3 on:** February 25, 2011, 06:48:44 PM »

You can also add a spacer to your front damper rod which works very well. But it requires more work ie cutting your springs the same amount so as to keep similar preload. You will also get stiffer springs in the process, which may not be what you're after.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2011, 05:51:57 AM »

Lowering Blocks In Action...

Grabcon · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2011, 06:16:14 AM »

Duke, I will say the samething to you as the last guy that wanted to lower the bike. First read the attached link. It is good education.

http://www.carbibles.com/suspension_bible_bikes.html

Secondly how much money do you want to spend. As mentioned above you can reposition the shock bottom as in the pictures above. You can buy shorter shocks and shorter front tubes. You can put on lower profile tires Here is a formula for tire height calculation.

The aspect ratio is a percentage so make sure you enter it as Example .9 for a 90

"Formula: Diameter in Inches = Rim Diam Inches + [ (2 x Aspect Ratio x Section Width) / 25.4]"

All of the above will affect bike height. One last thing. It is the seat. You can have somebody reshape the seat to give a lower riding position, or the obvious replace the seat. Personally I would go for the reshaping. Bring the bike and you to someone that can actually fit the bike to you.

Mark M · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2011, 06:35:21 AM »

Don't forget that iff you lower the whole bike your sidestand will stand the bike up more,
perhaps too much to be stable. Just be careful the first time you use it after the alterations.

Grabcon · « **Reply #7 on:** February 26, 2011, 06:38:12 AM »

Good point on the side stand. If the center stand is left on the bike will be more diffcult to get on the stand. You may also have a clearance problem if the center stand is left on.

bollingball · « **Reply #8 on:** February 26, 2011, 06:41:11 AM »

They have new blocks at JC Whitney.com Sorry could not get it to copy +1 on the seat mine is not stock and is way to wide if it wears out I will have it reshaped good tip duke plus my tubes are about 4" over I hate them.

Ken

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #9 on:** February 26, 2011, 08:59:38 AM »

Quote from: Grabcon on February 26, 2011, 06:38:12 AM

Good point on the side stand. If the center stand is left on the bike will be more diffcult to get on the stand. You may also have a clearance problem if the center stand is left on.

+1 on the center stand being harder. In fact, the pic above was from my "Handy Dandy Center Stand Get 'er On 'er" thread. Effective, but not real practical on a trip.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=74140.0

steam-powered man · « **Reply #10 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:17:30 AM »

fyi, lowering blocks will not work on later 750f's, right side interference prob with the caliper bracket.

on my 78cb750f, i've got 11inch shorty shocks from cyclexchange ($70) and have dropped the triples 35mm. have to heat/bend the sidestand, and cornering clearance will suffer a bit. i tip in until my toe drags and call it a good enough.

axehole54 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:47:31 AM »

anyone find that shorter shocks changes the way the bike handles at all? does it improve? I also can only put one foot flat on the ground on these bike and was thinking about shortened shocks and forksprings but not if it messes up the handling

stueveone · « **Reply #12 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:56:40 AM »

If you subtract equal amounts from the front and back, she will handle the same as far as geometry is concerned. However, if you cut springs, it will be a tad stiffer.

duke · « **Reply #13 on:** March 02, 2011, 03:45:17 PM »

Ok, I'm going to order the JC Whitney blocks, does anyone know if the stock chain guard goes back on normally? The blocks lower the bike 2.5 inches so I'll have the front tubes lowered same amount to keep everything equal. lastly, good idea to have the kickstand bent. Thanks for that tip as well.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #14 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:33:42 PM »

Quote from: stueveone on February 26, 2011, 09:56:40 AM

If you subtract equal amounts from the front and back, she will handle the same as far as geometry is concerned. However, if you cut springs, it will be a tad stiffer.

Actually it alters the suspension geometry. For instance, if you lower the rear then you are changing the angle of the rear shock as well, therefore the geometry has changed, on the front it is also changed as the trail increases. it will change handling, I don't know how it will feel but it will be changed, you will also have less ground clearance so watch your footpegs when going around corners, if you are not used to them hitting the road it can be quite scary the first couple of times and can make you react by standing the bike up mid corner. Not trying to scare you but it will happen, unless you ride like an old lady....

Mick

MidnightLamp · « **Reply #15 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:38:30 PM »

Just FYI, generally, moving bottom rear shock mount back (lowering block) will stiffen up the rear suspension in a noticable manner. I've ridden a pair of Yammie XJ's before and after lowering, and the difference....was interesting (soft forgiving front suspension, stiff rear suspension...makes you feel rather sick

)

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #16 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:47:14 PM »

If i had to lower a bike, i would use shorter shocks, it still increases you shock angle but not as much as lowering blocks, lowering blocks look dangerous to me and i would never use them at all.

Mick

bollingball · « **Reply #17 on:** March 02, 2011, 04:53:02 PM »

This whole thing boils down to how you are going to ride. I ride like a OLD man been down a lot in the 60's 70's 80's then started slowing down but only is the curves.

javjo73 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 02, 2011, 05:41:01 PM »

I used rear shocks from a cb500t on the cb750 bobber I'm making, it lowered it about 1 3/4 inches-also used the front fork assembly and that lowered the front about the same amount. Did have to shorten side stand-pitched the center stand just extra weight anyway

754 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 02, 2011, 07:08:16 PM »

I rode like an old lady.. one from Pasadena ...

that kinda old lady that does lots of burnouts, and likes getting off the line first...

I ran lowering blocks with a 16 inch wheel back in the day, dodnt slow me down much...

Brandotheamazing · « **Reply #20 on:** March 02, 2011, 07:43:13 PM »

I just got rid of the lowering blocks I had on, it just didn't feel right, and man was I dragging pegs more often, sucky, I'd rather have my toes on the ground when not moving ( cuz i can't go flat foot ) than having them on the ground going 40 around a nice bendy.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #21 on:** March 02, 2011, 08:27:14 PM »

I like my lowering blocks cuz I can ride like the OLD man that I am and PRETEND to be a bad azz peg scraper!!

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #22 on:** March 02, 2011, 10:48:34 PM »

Quote from: 754 on March 02, 2011, 07:08:16 PM

I rode like an old lady.. one from Pasadena ...

that kinda old lady that does lots of burnouts, and likes getting off the line first...

I ran lowering blocks with a 16 inch wheel back in the day, dodnt slow me down much...

Frank Frank Frank, sorry mate but thats poor advice, once again you are a straight line rider and i can guarantee you if you an i were racing and you had one of your lowered bikes with lowering blocks you would never keep up, in a straight line maybe but in my experience most roads have corners and it is there that you would soon find the short comings of those crappy lowering blocks..!! Ever seen a circuit bike with lowering blocks....didn't think so. Shorter shocks are a far better option than lowering blocks. No one in their right mind would say that the lowering blocks were a good addition to any swingarm because they are not....Lets keep this discussion sensible please.

somesuch · « **Reply #23 on:** March 02, 2011, 11:33:33 PM »

Quote from: stueveone on February 26, 2011, 09:56:40 AM

If you subtract equal amounts from the front and back, she will handle the same as far as geometry is concerned. However, if you cut springs, it will be a tad stiffer.

You are forgetting about the swing arm angle, center of gravity, etc. In my experience excluding the clearance issues, the handling is pretty different.

--Nick

duke · « **Reply #24 on:** March 28, 2011, 12:18:10 PM »

Update: Just got my bike back from the shop where they installed the cyclexchange lowering kit, which was 11" shocks and shortened tubes. This did the trick! Although I only rode it 4 miles today, I didn't notice any handling issues, in fact it pretty much feels the same as before. I do like that me feet can touch the ground though

Really? · « **Reply #25 on:** March 28, 2011, 12:32:48 PM »

Momma's ride, about 3" down front and back;

-2 cyclex fork tubes
Tubes slid up the trees 1 1/4 inches
15w fork oil
Shorty shocks on the back
16x3 rear rim

Next on the chopping block, 2" of foam cut out of the driver part of the seat and angled in a bit on the sides. She already has thick soled DM's. This should finish the whole lowering project.

Hey duke, we need pictures now.

duke · « **Reply #26 on:** March 28, 2011, 03:04:09 PM »

TipperT, nice! Where are you getting the seat done? I have a king/queen seat and would like to get a little more lowering done. I haven't checked shops in my area yet. Will posts some pics later.

Really? · « **Reply #27 on:** March 28, 2011, 03:17:41 PM »

There is some place up north that I have been thinking about. I do not have the link on this computer.

I will be cutting and shaping the foam and may have them make the cover.

Found the link. This guy seems to do decent work and the piping looks good.

http://www.vinyl-lux.com/motorcycle-scooter-bicycle-seat-redos/

The link below is to Free Booter's build and the seat he had done by them

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=76118.msg928870#msg928870

754 · « **Reply #28 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:29:16 PM »

Re reply # 22

I do not see where he wanted a circuit bike..??

There was a time way back where I could corner pretty hard, that was with a 16 inch rear.. At one point I put the lowering blocks on and it slowed me down a bit..

When I run rigid rear, the bike is pretty low and I dont corner hard at all. Do I miss it.. not really,, rather see more country than incresed lean angles.. to each their own...

News:

Author Topic: How to lower a 750? (Read 11712 times)

bollingball

bollingball